Chaparral 2000 SL Sport floor, and more?? [SPLASHED Sept 2017]

[Baylinerchuck]

No Title

Second question.... this purple fiberglass. What the heck is it? Uncured resin? Foam mixture reacting with resin that wasn't fully kicked? Two part foam that wasn't mixed? I found this in a few places so I'm pretty curious. See attached photos.

 

[gsxrdan]

... and grind and grind, and when u think ur done, grind more :faint2:

 

[JASinIL2006]

Second question.... this purple fiberglass. What the heck is it? Uncured resin? Foam mixture reacting with resin that wasn't fully kicked? Two part foam that wasn't mixed? I found this in a few places so I'm pretty curious. See attached photos.

Almost looks like it could be ink or some sort of residue to mark pieces of fiberglass when they were cut to size. Are all the purple areas on the edge of a layer of cloth?

 

[ripazka]

Baylinerchuck, good progress!

How are you going to make the new stringers to get correct deck height? I know how to cut them to follow the shape of the hull but Im a bit nervous about the correct deck height. I dont want to get curvy and badly attached deck because of incorrect stringer heights...


I was thinking just the same, in chine or not. I guess Im placing them just the same way they were placed in the factory.

 

[tpenfield]

I would not grind too much as you will take off material unnecessarily and have to build the hull thickness back up. Just get to good clean glass that you can adhere the new material to, etc.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Almost looks like it could be ink or some sort of residue to mark pieces of fiberglass when they were cut to size. Are all the purple areas on the edge of a layer of cloth?

Wasn't really thinking of ink, that's definitely a possibility. It seems the purple is in areas of heavy glass and resin build up. These areas have 1/2" or so of resin and glass but there are a ton of fibers that never seem to fully bed. I'm going to grind that stuff out because it is definitely questionable.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I would not grind too much as you will take off material unnecessarily and have to build the hull thickness back up. Just get to good clean glass that you can adhere the new material to, etc.

I agree. Just to the pink, and where it's pink just to get it rough. I'm not particularly fond of the grinding so you can bet I'll do the minimum amount possible.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Baylinerchuck, good progress!

How are you going to make the new stringers to get correct deck height? I know how to cut them to follow the shape of the hull but Im a bit nervous about the correct deck height. I dont want to get curvy and badly attached deck because of incorrect stringer heights...


I was thinking just the same, in chine or not. I guess Im placing them just the same way they were placed in the factory.

Thanks man....gotta keep rolling. My "time to go boating" internal clock is ticking. Lol.
My plan is to cut the bulkheads first. I'm moving the original position of the fuel tank forward 30" which means I can add an additional bulkhead. The original design only had 2, and they weren't even tabbed to the hull outside of the stringers. The bulkheads will be cut to final deck height,(minus 3/4). These will be my first points of measure for the stringers. I will also use a stringline across the hull to record additional depth measurements at predetermined points. That will get me close. I'll add an inch or so to those measurements so I have room to scribe them for a final fit. Once fit to the hull, minus 1/4", I'll cut the final height to match the bulkhead height. My initial thought was to reuse the original stringers as a template. However, when I removed them I realized how poorly they were made and changed the plan. You know, there were parts of the stringer where the foam UNDER the stringer was over an inch thick. Meaning A: it wasn't tabbed....at all, and B: the stinger was cut by an incompetent individual who lacks the skills necessary to do the job correctly. CRAZY. (Venting complete).
So that's my plan. I'll be ordering my resin and cloth after Christmas. I plan on having a lot of this stuff cut and ready to go before my stuff comes.

 

[kcassells]

Don't get to accurato! You may need to add swail for proper drainage off flat of deck, side to back etc. etc.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Don't get to accurato! You may need to add swail for proper drainage off flat of deck, side to back etc. etc.

Soooo you're recommending I build it like a modern art masterpiece, where nothing is plumb and the level is thrown out the window? I think not, lol. My OCD starts whispering evil thoughts when things aren't straight......:der: .

 

[proshadetree]

Try a da that has a vacume attachment with 40 grit paper. Use a shop vac with a drywall bag. Almost no dust. Cuts extreamly well.

 

[kcassells]

Nope not that.....Just don't OCD on it. You can always reduce the heights after install rather than adding later.

More importantly...Have Fun!

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Now that's funny!!!

 

[mickyryan]

Now that's funny!!!

Unless you behind him

 

[Baylinerchuck]

No Title

Got some more work done in the couple hours after dinner. Removed the center section that covers up the keel and was the false floor for the fuel tank and ski locker. That little number was extremely rotted. There was also a puddle and little bugs. Needless to say the bugs found a new home in the not so cozy great outdoors. I'm guessing that area of the boat hasn't been dry since late 1990.
I'm thinking I won't be running that piece to the bow as the factory did. I will only put back in what is needed to support the fuel tank.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

No Title

What I did not post last night was how far I got on the transom. In my earlier posts on this thread I was planning on replacing the wings on each side, but the thick part seemed solid. Well, this is a prime example of why you drill inspection holes or remove the fiberglass coating. I was shocked at how bad this transom was. The ONLY thing keeping it together was the pressure being applied by the inner transom plate and bell housing sandwiching the plywood. It literally fell apart.
I found that the bolt holes for the outdrive were not sealed, and every other penetration the PO used silicon to seal. This thing is scary nasty. To think I was cruising the river at 50mph with my wife and kids makes me want to cry. The transom is literally worst than mulch. It's dirt at this point. Fiberglass encapsulated dirt. What a mess.

 

[proshadetree]

Well the good is as soft as it looks should come off the rear skin easy enough.

 

[ripazka]

Thanks man....gotta keep rolling. My "time to go boating" internal clock is ticking. Lol.
My plan is to cut the bulkheads first. I'm moving the original position of the fuel tank forward 30" which means I can add an additional bulkhead. The original design only had 2, and they weren't even tabbed to the hull outside of the stringers. The bulkheads will be cut to final deck height,(minus 3/4). These will be my first points of measure for the stringers. I will also use a stringline across the hull to record additional depth measurements at predetermined points. That will get me close. I'll add an inch or so to those measurements so I have room to scribe them for a final fit. Once fit to the hull, minus 1/4", I'll cut the final height to match the bulkhead height. My initial thought was to reuse the original stringers as a template. However, when I removed them I realized how poorly they were made and changed the plan. You know, there were parts of the stringer where the foam UNDER the stringer was over an inch thick. Meaning A: it wasn't tabbed....at all, and B: the stinger was cut by an incompetent individual who lacks the skills necessary to do the job correctly. CRAZY. (Venting complete).
So that's my plan. I'll be ordering my resin and cloth after Christmas. I plan on having a lot of this stuff cut and ready to go before my stuff comes.

Sounds good. I think I try to do the same way. What kind of saw you're gonna use for that "last cut" when cutting them to correct height? A jigsaw?

You're very fast, I can't keep up :lol:

 

[Brandon5778]

What a great looking boat, she really shines. One thing I noted was you said you found all 32 wobble rollers for only 3.99 a pop! Wow! How the heck did you manage that? And do the new ones you got leave marks on your hull? All the nonmarking kinds I was looking at were like $9-10 a piece. Crazy, I am also thinking of converting to bunks.. But I like the rollers

I need to replace all 32 of mine too

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Sounds good. I think I try to do the same way. What kind of saw you're gonna use for that "last cut" when cutting them to correct height? A jigsaw?

You're very fast, I can't keep up :lol:

Thanks man!! I'm planning on using the circular saw to cut the final height on the stringers. I will have everything held in place to get the final measurements for the cut. I won't tab anything in until the height of the stringers are finalized. I don't like the idea of using a saber saw to cut the top because I want the cut to be straight. Its easier for me to use a fence with a circular saw. I'll use the saber saw for the fitment of the stringer to the hull. At least that's the plan, always subject to tweaking. Thanks for following along!!