Yes, old gauges were working except trim. Fuel worked fine 1st year, started acting up close of season last year. Would read full or empty all the time. The old tach, temp, and volt worked great until started changing gauges.If you have one of those old original fuse boxes with the glass fuses check the tabs for oxidation; I had this problem one year & none of the gauges came on & engine or empty crank. Fuse was not blown it was simply oxidation.
Did the old gauges work right?
Will definitely give this a try.All gauges should have full Bat voltage, only the sender wires would have less. If ground is bad (probably is) then taking a reading will be off. Use a jumper wire from Neg Bat terminal to the meter and then take readings.
Ran a jumper from battery neg. to meter. Got 12.4 volts fuel, trim, temperature, & voltage. Tach 10.5, speedometer 10.5. Fuel and temp. gauges peg full right when power switched on.All gauges should have full Bat voltage, only the sender wires would have less. If ground is bad (probably is) then taking a reading will be off. Use a jumper wire from Neg Bat terminal to the meter and then take readings.
Sorry, got sidetracked on yellow wire. Have not been able to figure were it's origin is. Will try again to figure out.Sure sounds like a / multiple crap ground connection(s).
Check all the grounds on the gauges, on the ground buss that is somewhere near the helm, battery and such..... Even check there isn't a bad solderless crimp connector on one of the ground wires in the circuit.
Easy way to check the grounds, is enrgize the circuits, connect test light wire to neg term of battery (use long wire if needed) and start touching all ground connections, everywhere. When the light lights up, you have found the ground connection UPSTREAM of the bad one. Start working toward the battery neg from there.
Never got an answer when asked what is that yellow wire on the ground connection / bracket of the gauges.
I definitely agree on status of wire connectors.Sure sounds like a / multiple crap ground connection(s).
Check all the grounds on the gauges, on the ground buss that is somewhere near the helm, battery and such..... Even check there isn't a bad solderless crimp connector on one of the ground wires in the circuit.
Easy way to check the grounds, is enrgize the circuits, connect test light wire to neg term of battery (use long wire if needed) and start touching all ground connections, everywhere. When the light lights up, you have found the ground connection UPSTREAM of the bad one. Start working toward the battery neg from there.
Never got an answer when asked what is that yellow wire on the ground connection / bracket of the gauges.
Found out when p.o. installed HEI distributor he must have done away with 10 pin conector. Took a couple pics. to show.Pull the engine 10 pin connector and check pins
I am fairly sure you are right. Guess need to bite the bullet and install correct dizzy. Am certain you are right about cheap.If PO didn't solder the wires then that's most likely where the issues are. Looks like he went on the cheap
The Dizzy looks automotive and not marine
Already checked on that. It is a mercruiser motor.PO probably installed a motor from a car or truck as well. check the castings and the serial number