Changing my boat gauges.

alldodge

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All gauges should have full Bat voltage, only the sender wires would have less. If ground is bad (probably is) then taking a reading will be off. Use a jumper wire from Neg Bat terminal to the meter and then take readings.
 

catfishr1

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If you have one of those old original fuse boxes with the glass fuses check the tabs for oxidation; I had this problem one year & none of the gauges came on & engine or empty crank. Fuse was not blown it was simply oxidation.
Did the old gauges work right?
Yes, old gauges were working except trim. Fuel worked fine 1st year, started acting up close of season last year. Would read full or empty all the time. The old tach, temp, and volt worked great until started changing gauges.
 

catfishr1

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All gauges should have full Bat voltage, only the sender wires would have less. If ground is bad (probably is) then taking a reading will be off. Use a jumper wire from Neg Bat terminal to the meter and then take readings.
Will definitely give this a try.
 

catfishr1

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All gauges should have full Bat voltage, only the sender wires would have less. If ground is bad (probably is) then taking a reading will be off. Use a jumper wire from Neg Bat terminal to the meter and then take readings.
Ran a jumper from battery neg. to meter. Got 12.4 volts fuel, trim, temperature, & voltage. Tach 10.5, speedometer 10.5. Fuel and temp. gauges peg full right when power switched on.
 

04fxdwgi25

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Sure sounds like a / multiple crap ground connection(s).
Check all the grounds on the gauges, on the ground buss that is somewhere near the helm, battery and such..... Even check there isn't a bad solderless crimp connector on one of the ground wires in the circuit.

Easy way to check the grounds, is enrgize the circuits, connect test light wire to neg term of battery (use long wire if needed) and start touching all ground connections, everywhere. When the light lights up, you have found the ground connection UPSTREAM of the bad one. Start working toward the battery neg from there.

Never got an answer when asked what is that yellow wire on the ground connection / bracket of the gauges.
 

catfishr1

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Sure sounds like a / multiple crap ground connection(s).
Check all the grounds on the gauges, on the ground buss that is somewhere near the helm, battery and such..... Even check there isn't a bad solderless crimp connector on one of the ground wires in the circuit.

Easy way to check the grounds, is enrgize the circuits, connect test light wire to neg term of battery (use long wire if needed) and start touching all ground connections, everywhere. When the light lights up, you have found the ground connection UPSTREAM of the bad one. Start working toward the battery neg from there.

Never got an answer when asked what is that yellow wire on the ground connection / bracket of the gauges.
Sorry, got sidetracked on yellow wire. Have not been able to figure were it's origin is. Will try again to figure out.
 

catfishr1

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Sure sounds like a / multiple crap ground connection(s).
Check all the grounds on the gauges, on the ground buss that is somewhere near the helm, battery and such..... Even check there isn't a bad solderless crimp connector on one of the ground wires in the circuit.

Easy way to check the grounds, is enrgize the circuits, connect test light wire to neg term of battery (use long wire if needed) and start touching all ground connections, everywhere. When the light lights up, you have found the ground connection UPSTREAM of the bad one. Start working toward the battery neg from there.

Never got an answer when asked what is that yellow wire on the ground connection / bracket of the gauges.
I definitely agree on status of wire connectors.
 

catfishr1

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Sorry, got sidetracked on yellow wire. Have not been able to figure were it's origin is. Will try again to figure out.
Traced down wire to horn. That means end on gauge should be on ign. I think?20230622_084412.jpg
 

alldodge

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Yes, but a better source would be another place like fuse block. The horn on the ignition feed is not good, already have enough things running on it
 

catfishr1

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Pull the engine 10 pin connector and check pins
Found out when p.o. installed HEI distributor he must have done away with 10 pin conector. Took a couple pics. to show.
 

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alldodge

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If PO didn't solder the wires then that's most likely where the issues are. Looks like he went on the cheap

The Dizzy looks automotive and not marine
 

catfishr1

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If PO didn't solder the wires then that's most likely where the issues are. Looks like he went on the cheap

The Dizzy looks automotive and not marine
I am fairly sure you are right. Guess need to bite the bullet and install correct dizzy. Am certain you are right about cheap.
 

catfishr1

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New thought on ground jumper wire. Hooked it to new volt gauge, switched on all instrument lights came on, had 12.5 volts all gauges. Fuel gauge and temp. gauge was working not the tach? Moved jumper to fuel gauge 12.5 all instruments. Had a storm brewing did not get to test what was working.
 

Scott Danforth

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PO probably installed a motor from a car or truck as well. check the castings and the serial number
 

catfishr1

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All dodge, you asked who manufacturered the old gauges. Took a picture of old tach, and old voltmeter. Noticed some strange differences between old and new.
Think problem is in new tach the way it is wired compared to old.20230623_131209.jpg20230622_100024.jpg
 

catfishr1

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Think am closing in on it. Am so very appreciative and thankful for all the help.
 
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