For what it's worth, when I re-did my transom/stringers, I used SeaCast and really dug the product. What made it (IMO) easier than a full gutting was: Make incisions from the top down on the stringers with a cutoff wheel, on both sides of the 3/4" glassed in stringer. (Not across the top of the stringer.) After I removed the "cover slit" of fiberglass, I drilled 3/8" holes every 6 inches in the wood to 4" down. Then poured in denatured alcohol in the holes, allowed it to absorb. Then took two bicycle hooks (the kind you use to hang bikes from your ceiling), screwed them down into some of the holes in the wood stringer, grabbed the hooks, rocked it back and forth, then pulled straight up, and out they came. In this way, I was able to remove the stringers, front to back, and completely retain the exact height of the stringers, and a the same time, create a perfect form for the seacast. For the transom, i chose a different path, but honestly wish I would have taken the chainsaw route. Done properly, you can have a 100% composite boat (below deck), without having to tear out, de-skin and re-skin anything. No custom wood cutting for stringers, or leveling. I spent about $350 (2x5 Gallon kits) and from my calculations, it saved me about $50 in wood, resin, brushes and cloth, and 3 weekends in work. (Admittedly, I'm not very fast at glassing.) To me, the $300 additional material cost was well worth the time saved, especially when factored into the fact that this boat, below deck at least, will never rot.
The owner, Sabine, is very knowledgeable. I would go as far as to say, she's can be downright pushy, but only because she wants your project come out 100%, and she really believes in the product. She really knows what she's talking about.
Now, if only the boat were worth what I put into it...
Happy Friday!!!