Can I? Should I?

bmag02

Cadet
Joined
Sep 14, 2013
Messages
6
Hello,
Ok, first a little background. I have a '78 Harris Flote Boat with a '77 OMC 120 Sterndrive (model #990234E). I got the boat for cheap cheap last year and have only had it out a couple of times. Long story short, the block has 2 cracks, one has been previously welded, the other has not. There is water coming from the one that has not been welded (but no water in the oil). The manifold also has had a crack welded, and is full of rust. Compression test showed ~65psi across all cylinders. I did manage to have the engine running last week before I discovered the cracks, but it only was only running on 2 cylinders. Basically, this engine is toast.

Locally, I have not really had any luck finding an OMC 120/140. However, I have found an '83 Mercruiser 120 for $200. I plan on looking at it tomorrow evening. The only catch is that it does not have an outdrive.

Now, my question is this; would I be able to use the block from the Mercruiser and bolt it onto the OMC mounts and bell housing? Would I need an adapter of some sort? Different flywheel? I'm not too concerned about the engine mounting brackets, as those are easy enough to fabricate if need be, I'm curious as to where the standard GM motor stops, and the OMC/ Mercruiser starts. Is there any kind of a cross reference that shows what will interchange between these motors? I've searched these forums and others and haven't found a clear cut answer.

So, what would you recommend I do? Try and repair the OMC, use the Mercruiser block and try to fit it to the OMC outdrive, find a Mercruiser outdrive to go with the engine, or spend more time to find a good OMC long block?

I know that it would probably be a pain to mate the Merc with the OMC, and that I will probably have to run new cables and wiring. I only want to spend about $600 on this right now. And trust me, I am trying to find an OMC, but good ones are few and far between.





 

Chad Flaugher

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 2, 2015
Messages
392
Lots of guys with more knowledge that me on here.... BUT. I know OMC uses a VERY large opening in the transom, larger than anything else. I'm pretty sure your best bet is to try and stay OMC. Anything else would require extensive transom modifications. Every decent large city has that "one boat shop" that still deals with the old stuff. Find that boat shop, and you'll find what your looking for!
 

bmag02

Cadet
Joined
Sep 14, 2013
Messages
6
The transom doesn't bother me. A new sheet of aluminum and some time can fix that.
As for 'that one boat shop', they were the first stop I made. They don't have any OMC left. They recommended either jasper engines or a local engine repair place. I went to the repair shop and they had an OMC 140 bare block with a crack between cylinders 2 and 3 and they wanted $400 for it. They also said they would cold stitch the crack in my block for $400, but how long would that last? The other decent boat shop in town tried to sell me a volvo block that they are in the middle of re-building.
I would love to find an OMC 120/140 in good condition, they just don't seem to exist around here, and I'm not buying one sight unseen off the internet for $500+$300s&h
There are a couple of other places in the surrounding area that I'm going to check out tomorrow. I'm also keeping an eye out out for any boat I that someone might get rid of that I could salvage parts from.
 
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Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
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Jul 23, 2011
Messages
51,865
OMC, Volvo, and Mercruiser all purchsed the 120 (2.5 liter) and the stroked 140 (3.0 liter) blocks from GM powertrain. if you are only looking for a block and heads, they are all interchangeable from 1990 down

tin work (valve covers and oil pans), intakes, exhaust, electric, etc. along with the outdrive are all different between them.
 

southkogs

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 7, 2010
Messages
15,084
The transom is more than probably just a sheet of aluminum. The Stringer drive uses the boats stringers to transfer energy to the hull for propulsion. All other drives use the transom to eat all of that force. You need a substantial structure back there.

Scott's right about blocks, and honestly finding a donor boat with an OMC 120 in it should be reasonably easy for cheap. It's the drives that are a pain to come by.

Welcome aboard bmag.
 

bmag02

Cadet
Joined
Sep 14, 2013
Messages
6
I know that the basic block will interchange, what I am most concerned with are the small bits like the flywheel, starter, output shaft, and throttle controls. I don't want to get a cheap motor only to spend another couple hundred in parts to make it work. Also, since both the block and manifold on mine are fubar, I'm looking for a complete motor. I have found about 5 donor boats with mercruiser 120/140 engines within a 2 hour drive of me. The nearest OMC 120/140 is over 3 hours away, and doesn't sound like its in that great of shape. The Volvo block that the local shop has was stupid expensive.
Doing a full swap and rebuilding the transom is a last ditch idea. That said, the entire engine bay and transom is a welded aluminum tub. I can't imagine it would take much to make it structurally sound.
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
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Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,357
Also, since both the block and manifold on mine are fubar, I'm looking for a complete motor.

Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,..... Ya didn't mention that before,.....

Long blocks will swap,..... Bobtail motors will Not,.... Nothin' is alike,......
 

bmag02

Cadet
Joined
Sep 14, 2013
Messages
6
Ok, after looking at the mercruiser 120, I can see how much work it would be to use it. I opened up my search radius and happened to find a working OMC 140 with outdrive and absolutely everything that connected to the motor, including steering, throttle, gauges, and some other goodies for only $500. So, this last weekend, I made the almost 5 hour drive to pick it up. Bet you can guess what I'll be doing all week ;). Speaking of which, any tips or tricks on a motor swap?
 
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