Can I just eliminate my ESA?

[projo198]

Today I decided to take a closer look at my ESA now they I have a half-@ss knowledge of what I am doing.

Manually pushing the lever did nothing, the idle stayed the same.

I checked the ground on the ESA to the battery and it was good. I ohm tested the interrupter switch ad though I don't really know how to read ohms it pushed current through when pushed.

To get a better idea on the switch I wired one end of the switch wire to a known ground, and the other to the negative post on the ignition coil. Whammo, it stuttered when the switch was pushed.

I then put the test wire to the factory wire harness that comes from the motor to the ESA. With the wire on the brown wire it had the same effect, so that should eliminate a wiring problem.

All that being said, is there a reason why I cannot wire the interrupter switch directly to the ignition coil, instead of buying a new ESA? In my mind it would do the same thing, just without the safety of the override switch.

My boat came with an extra ESA and neither worked.

 

[projo198]

Re: Can I just eliminate my ESA?

Also I guess the other switch could be bad, right? Possibly stuck on and not letting the interrupter switch work?

 

[astuckey]

Re: Can I just eliminate my ESA?

I kinda did the same thing, except for a few differences. I used the overstroke switch, which I would recommend doing, because it prevents the engine from shutting down completely. I also used a relay, just to be safe, so I didn't burn up the stitches. I had done zero reading about what the switches could handle, which is why I decided to use the relay.

 

[projo198]

Re: Can I just eliminate my ESA?

I kinda did the same thing, except for a few differences. I used the overstroke switch, which I would recommend doing, because it prevents the engine from shutting down completely. I also used a relay, just to be safe, so I didn't burn up the stitches. I had done zero reading about what the switches could handle, which is why I decided to use the relay.

The relay is a really good idea, I never thought of using one for a ground. I didn't even know that was possible. I was wondering about the load capacity of the switch also.

Are you saying you used the over stroke switch to do what the interrupter switch normally does, or you kept both? If so how did you maintain the over stroke switch while eliminating the ESA?

 

[astuckey]

Re: Can I just eliminate my ESA?

Yes, I did use both. I wired it according to this. I cut the two wires on the ESA side of the 4 pin plug. I ran one wire to ground, and the other to a relay, to connect the circut to power it. (so the switches control when the relay is active)

 

[astuckey]

Re: Can I just eliminate my ESA?

NOTE!!! In the diagram, the black wire is grounded. If you have the original ESA, do NOT just cut the blue wire, and use that. The original ESA does not have that wire grounded, at least not according to this diagram.

 

[projo198]

Re: Can I just eliminate my ESA?

Additional info; it looks as if I have both the old and new style ESAs. One has the terminal with 2 black and 2 blue wires, the newer one only has 2 wires. So I guess the over stroke switch serves no purpose with that one anyway, but that ESA still doesn't do what it Gould be. So I am guessing 2 bad ESAs.

 

[astuckey]

Re: Can I just eliminate my ESA?

It does, it just loops the wire back around, like it is in the diagram. Atleast I think so... Look at the esa plug.

 

[projo198]

Re: Can I just eliminate my ESA?

Ok, I am halfway following you. It's been awhile since I wired a relay though, I'll have to do some brushing up. Would you happen to know the numbers on the relay for each wire? I have both the new and old ESA module so I can use either. Did you use the new style one?

 

[astuckey]

Re: Can I just eliminate my ESA?

I used the old style one, but the only peice that you need is the 4 pin plug. Also, it has to have that wire that loops around, like in the diagram I posted, or else the overstroke switch wont do anything. As for wiring the relay, if you take a picture of the top of it, that has the numbers and diagram, I can help you out.

 

[projo198]

Re: Can I just eliminate my ESA?

Ok cool. Here's the 4 pin I'm gonna use, I believe it's the one you are referring to.

I couldn't find a relay so I'll be buying one tomorrow. But it will be a standard relay in this configuration.

Thanks for the help!

 

[astuckey]

Re: Can I just eliminate my ESA?

Thats it!
Wiring Instructions:

1. Cut both the long black, and long blue wires, going between the 4 pin plug, and the ESA, closest to the ESA.
2. Run the black wire to ground.
3. Mount your relay.
4. Run the blue wire to either 86 or 85
5. Make a wire, that goes between either 86 or 85 (which ever one you haven't used), and a SWITCHED positive post on your alternator. For me, it was the post with the red/purple wire on it. I don't know what it will be for you. Check it with a volt meter to be sure.
6. Make a wire between either 87, or 30, and a GOOD ground.
7. Make a wire between either 87, or 30 (whichever has not been used yet), and the negative side of your coil.
8. Plug in the 4 pin plug, and your done!

Now what should happen, when the interrupt switch is activated, it will turn on the relay, grounding the coil, cutting the spark.

 

[projo198]

Re: Can I just eliminate my ESA?

Ok, thanks! One quick question. Instead of running new wires to the alternator and ignition coil could I not just use the factory wiring that goes into the ESA with the remaining 2 prong connector as my positive and ground to coil? I think the positive on that wire comes from the starter solenoid, so it should be a good switched hot lead.

 

[astuckey]

Re: Can I just eliminate my ESA?

I would assume so, just make sure everything is correct. Note, this is only my assumption. Good luck!

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Can I just eliminate my ESA?

And when this all doesn't work, buy the updated ESA which uses a timer to pulse the engine. It also doesn't need the overstroke(not override) switch.

 

[astuckey]

Re: Can I just eliminate my ESA?

It works perfectly

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Can I just eliminate my ESA?

It works perfectly

For now!

I mean seriously, why advise someone who has an OMC with a points distributor to remove the ESA when there is no reason to. OMC designed their system with an ESA for a reason. Even with a Delco EST you can use an ESA but it has to be a CDI brand ESA.

OP is going to cut up his harness and going to be stuck soldering it all back together one day when he decides the ESA was the way to go in the first place.

 

[astuckey]

Re: Can I just eliminate my ESA?

Ok, what is that reason. People have done this fix for years, without a problem. Also, the dogs would disengage in a torque low (or when no cylinders are firing) with the ESA anyway, this just makes it an all time torque low when shifting.

 

[projo198]

Re: Can I just eliminate my ESA?

What would be the difference in stumbling the motor entirely or only half the cylinders? Is there a danger in that?

I have 2 ESAs, newer and older style, and neither is working.

 

[astuckey]

Re: Can I just eliminate my ESA?

Which is why it would be stupid to spend 110 dollars on a new one, when you can do this. There is no common sense in the idea that this would harm the gears.