Cam for 96 5.7

[78 Thompson]

I’m looking for a cam for my 96 5.7?mercruiser. It originally came with the roller cam but was rebuilt and they changed back to the flat tappet.
Now I am rebuilding it again, so wanted to change back to the roller.
I found a guy that has all the stuff I need, but I wanted to check with you guys about how to identify the cam and what the numbers on it mean.
So on the front it has 7395 and below that ENG 06 below that 233 08-05
Is that a mercruiser cam? Or truck cam?
Thanks

 

[Scott Danforth]

7395 is a GM TBI truck cam, runs out of steam at about 4000. regardless if its on a 305 or 350 it provides the same dismal power output

I personally would run a XM264HR if running a comp cam. max duration you can go with a wet exhaust is 270.

 

[78 Thompson]

7395 is a GM TBI truck cam, runs out of steam at about 4000. regardless if its on a 305 or 350 it provides the same dismal power output

I personally would run a XM264HR if running a comp cam. max duration you can go with a wet exhaust is 270.

Yeah this probably won't be a performance build, engine only has the 2 barrel carb and I don't think I can afford to change that too.
So I am confused on the prices of the cams this 7395 looks like you can get new for $268 and the mercruiser is $557? Then I'm not sure what the correct lifters are for my engine. The mercruiser ones are $158 each, am I right? what would a set of decent quality cost me from say summit or Jegs ?
Engine serial # 0K012416

 

[Scott Danforth]

Mercruiser in 1996 used GM marine cams (generic motors) or crane cams (performance motors) and GM lifters

Crane is now part of comp

GM still has lifters

Mercruiser is simply repackaging the stuff you can buy elsewhere and doubling or tripling the price

 

[Scott Danforth]

Cam, lifters, intake and carb with a gasket set will set you back about $1.1k if you shop smart.

 

[78 Thompson]

Mercruiser in 1996 used GM marine cams (generic motors) or crane cams (performance motors) and GM lifters

Crane is now part of comp

GM still has lifters

Mercruiser is simply repackaging the stuff you can buy elsewhere and doubling or tripling the price

I'm pretty confused on what the right lifters are, that I would need. I was told it would be $800-1000 just for cam and lifters. What would the correct lifters be, how do I cross reference them? Do I just search for say a 96 chevy 1500?
When I did a search on the Comp xm264hr I got a kit with cam lifters and timing chain for $872 I dont even know if that the right cam is the part no. different at summit, cca-sk08-416-8?
Ok I found it at Jegs, Cam alone is $522.

 

[Scott06]

If you can get a good used truck cam and roller lifters for a reasonable price Do so. Roller cam and lifters are not cheap that’s why the rebuilder used flat tappet . anything with mercruiser label will be 2 x what it should cost. Not sure if comp cams can recommend a marine stock replacement roller cam

 

[78 Thompson]

If you can get a good used truck cam and roller lifters for a reasonable price Do so. Roller cam and lifters are not cheap that’s why the rebuilder used flat tappet . anything with mercruiser label will be 2 x what it should cost. Not sure if comp cams can recommend a marine stock replacement roller cam

what would you say a set of lifter would run me?

 

[Scott06]

what would you say a set of lifter would run me?

Look on summit racing for sbc roller lifters. That’s where I would see what they cost. they would likely offer two style one for block originally set up for flat cams, one for originally set up for rollers. Or call their tech department to make sure what fits your engine

 

[78 Thompson]

Look on summit racing for sbc roller lifters. That’s where I would see what they cost. they would likely offer two style one for block originally set up for flat cams, one for originally set up for rollers. Or call their tech department to make sure what fits your engine

Do I want to search for a certain year range, I keep seeing LS stuff, is that the same as what I need?

 

[Scott06]

Do I want to search for a certain year range, I keep seeing LS stuff, is that the same as what I need?

No you have a 85 and up small block Chevy sure fireway is to get casting number of bellhousing area of block and go off that

this is probably the mildest kit they have for cam lifter and chain . May require valve springs and machine ping of spring pocket and retainer to seal clearance but talk to machinist.

you have the worlds most common engine which is good, yiu just need to determine if the block you have is set up for a roller cam from factory or if you need a retro kit that works on older blocks from flat tappet days. They all are considered small block Chevy gen one blocks not LT or later LS family. Other option is to order through your machinist so they can assist ith fitment

 

[78 Thompson]

No you have a 85 and up small block Chevy sure fireway is to get casting number of bellhousing area of block and go off that

I guess I didn't get that picture, I took a bunch of pictures before I took it to the machine shop, could have swore I took one of that number.
where do I search that number if I had it?

 

[Scott06]

I guess I didn't get that picture, I took a bunch of pictures before I took it to the machine shop, could have swore I took one of that number.
where do I search that number if I had it?

Give it to tech support where u are looking at cams summit , comp cams etc. or have your machinist get you a stock replacement marine roller cam. r

 

[Scott Danforth]

Not sure if comp cams can recommend a marine stock replacement roller cam

cam spec for a stock replacement is pretty meek. thats why I dont do stock

anything over 0.420" lift, and you should run the beehive (LS) valve springs or cut the tops of the valve guides for the better seals so they do not interfere with the keepers

there is also a ghetto-grind where you grind the bottom of the keepers down, however that is a hack move

with today's issues with flat tappet cams and flat tappet lifters because the new stuff just sucks (high failure rate) its just not worth cheaping out on the cam to put a flat tappet in the motor.

the cam I spec'd is good for 320-330fwhp from the 350 with the stock flat tops and a decent intake and 4-barrel, a 2" carb spacer, its the smallest of Comp's marine cams with a good idle, etc

if looking for roller cam for a truck, the two generations are 1991-1995 TBI motors (only some got the roller and that is covered in post #1 and #2) or ANY vin code R motor from 1996-2000 (the true vortec motors)

yes, cam prices went high in the last 2 years. Comp bought all the competition that wasnt switching to LS or LT platform.

here is the stock marine cam for GM motors that was manufactured by Melling. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-22119



as compared to the comp extreme marine specs


you need SBC OE spec'd lifters. if the lifters in the pile of parts indicated in post #1 are in good shape, you could use them. (I wouldnt personally, however some people do not have issues)

if you have a stock OE roller block, you can use the cheap $10 each roller lifters


you will also need to verify the pushrod lengths as the flat tappets have different lengths than the rollers. and if the heads have non-adjustable valve train and the heads or deck were cut, the rod length changes and the push rods need to be changed.

which is another reason i dont do stock. I would change the heads to screw-in valve studs and adjustable valve train as even stock, the valve studs pull out. whome ever thought pressed-in valve studs was a good idea should be forced to listen to "helen Reddy, the las vegas years" for 2 years straight while strapped to a chair with wet leather straps tied around their nether regions

 

[Pmt133]

I personally like the morel 7717s as far as oe style lifters go... the cheaper ones I've watched come apart on well... stock builds post 2020 so I can't say I trust even the GM replacements anymore. FYI, SBC gen 1 and standard ls/lt lifters are interchangeable if you use the factory roller 350 blocks with the spider hold down.

As far as comp, yeah they are now owned by edelbrock group which was formed under industrial opportunities partners... investment firm thing. includes Lunati, tci, etc....

If I were doing it, Scott's reccomended parts list is what I'd use. I'd call it the garden variety rebuild.

 

[Scott06]

cam spec for a stock replacement is pretty meek. thats why I dont do stock

Yeah I know that but this guy doesn't have 30 years of putting motors together, which is often learned the hard way, hence have the machinist do the combo so the OP doesn't miss something

If he wants worry free stock performance and a simple build stay with stock components. Melling is quality stuff so if that is the stock replacement thats a good way to go and wont get him into needing to rejet the carb

I agree with PMT below

I personally like the morel 7717s as far as oe style lifters go... the cheaper ones I've watched come apart on well... stock builds post 2020 so I can't say I trust even the GM replacements anymore. FYI, SBC gen 1 and standard ls/lt lifters are interchangeable if you use the factory roller 350 blocks with the spider hold down.

The two names I regularly hear as quality roller lifters are Morell and Johnson. The GTO forum I am on have seen guys roller cams get eaten by some of the cheaper stuff out there. On a pontiac it can crack the weak factory lifter bores.

 

[Scott Danforth]

there is a rash of flat tappet failures on hotrodders

yes, the Morel/Callies stuff is pretty good. however there are a bunch of fake Morel lifters on the market

 

[Scott06]

there is a rash of flat tappet failures on hotrodders

yes, the Morel/Callies stuff is pretty good. however there are a bunch of fake Morel lifters on the market

I was talking about a bunch of roller failures. The flat tappet issues seem to be more from improper machining- no taper on lobe and no convex to base of lifter than break in or oil issues. UTG and M<uscle car solutions did some good videos on how to measure these prior to flat cam install.

Yeah the fake stuff is amazing - the car care nut did a segment on how to spot fake toyota parts.

 

[Scott Danforth]

yeah.....the flats are also no longer properly heat treated either in addition to the machining issues and the oils do not carry enough ZDDP (even Rotella levels have dropped)..... 'cuz all the grey beards that invented the stuff sold their cam companies and retired, and the new guys didnt want to learn the whys.... to cam manufacturing

I read that most of the roller failures were knock-offs or recirculated rejects (fleabay, etc) in addition to some failures by really high spring pressures (double springs vs beehives) with the occasional lifter turning in the tray on the LS's

 

[Scott06]

yeah.....the flats are also no longer properly heat treated either in addition to the machining issues and the oils do not carry enough ZDDP (even Rotella levels have dropped)..... 'cuz all the grey beards that invented the stuff sold their cam companies and retired, and the new guys didnt want to learn the whys.... to cam manufacturing

I read that most of the roller failures were knock-offs or recirculated rejects (fleabay, etc) in addition to some failures by really high spring pressures (double springs vs beehives) with the occasional lifter turning in the tray on the LS's

Those two sources and Powell machine found that heat treating isn't the issue - its that no one knows how to properly machine a flat cam and lifters anymore as no one is making them for OEMs only rollers. Lifters dont rotate and you can put what ever oil, valve springs , etc into breaking and it wont make a diff. Cam company blames it on improper breaking and every buys a roller for 2x the cost ...

I did a flat cam in my 65 GTO in early 2022 I think the box was from eaton or maybe lifters were pretty sure it is the same cam that melling, Summit (2801) offer as specs are within a few duration degrees and few thou of lift...

I cant imagine the summit lifters for $10 each are gonna last either.