C Channel vs. tube trailers ?'s opinions.

bryanwess2000

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Re: C Channel vs. tube trailers ?'s opinions.

Cribber I believe dingbat is probably refering to metal fatigue associated
with aluminum, if the metal is subjected to flexing, bending, it will eventually
fail (crack). The only other problem I can think of would be galvanic corrosion
which I don't think would be an issue with an I-beam trailer.

You guys type fast, beat me to it.
 
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jeeperman

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Re: C Channel vs. tube trailers ?'s opinions.

Not all hot dip galvanizing is of the same quailty. There are a wide variety of things that will have an effect.
There are industry standards to follow or exceed.
On a boat trailer using tube...........if you look closely many are made with the crossmembers fully welded at each end. Most have the main frame members with the ends capped off and fully welded.
The chambers created will have a very small drain hole at the low point of each chamber.
Now the question is, does the trailer builder use tubing that has been dipped before fabrication ? And then dip it again after it is all fabricated? I doubt they use pre-dipped. And thus the insides have no or little galvanizing because it can't get inside the chambers fast enough nor drain out fast enough via the drain holes.
 

bryanwess2000

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Re: C Channel vs. tube trailers ?'s opinions.

Almost all of my boating will be in fresh water but I might do some inshore
boating/fishing occasionally as my family vacations in the gulf yearly and
I love catching reds, trout, and pompano. All the galvanized trailers I've
seen have been tube trailers, are there any C channel galvanized trailers?
 

jeeperman

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Re: C Channel vs. tube trailers ?'s opinions.

Almost all of my boating will be in fresh water but I might do some inshore
boating/fishing occasionally as my family vacations in the gulf yearly and
I love catching reds, trout, and pompano. All the galvanized trailers I've
seen have been tube trailers, are there any C channel galvanized trailers?
Yes, Magic-Tilt does for one.
 

SuperNova

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Re: C Channel vs. tube trailers ?'s opinions.

On a budget, I'd go with the best galvanized tube frame I could afford. Off a budget....Aluminum I-beam all the way....I don't know about long term wear and tear with the aluminum, but short term the lighter tow weight and better looks would get my money....besides if I'm budget-free, then I can replace it in a few years if it starts looking like crap and/or cracking.
 

Pez Vela

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Re: C Channel vs. tube trailers ?'s opinions.

How many keep a boat and trailer in excess of 5- 10 years let along 20-25 years?

You make a very good point ... I guess I'm one of the few, the proud, and the thrifty who have nursed their trailer along beyond all expectations ... going into my 24th year of heavy saltwater usage and brutal, bone jarring Baja expeditions towing a 25+ footer. It just happens to be a C-channel which was rinsed well with fresh water after each use. You may take from that what you will.

Personally, I would love to have a tube trailer, simply because they look so much better, particularly if painted. I would never buy one though, simply because they are not necessary, and I like my stuff to last a really long time. I don't believe that there is a right or wrong answer to the tube vs. C-channel question because so much depends on the individual boater.

Check this out ... http://www.fetrailers.com/difference.html
 

Fl_Richard

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Re: C Channel vs. tube trailers ?'s opinions.

My aluminum I beam tandum trailer is 14 years old and looks like new still. The galvanized torsion axles are showing light surface rust, the mfgr says in five or six years they will need replacement. No visible road wear anyplace. Light oxidation where marker lights are attached with stainless screws. Thats it :)
 

arimatation

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Re: C Channel vs. tube trailers ?'s opinions.

Seems that logic would dictate that an I beam frame would be less likely to rust irregardless of material. All surfaces are external as opposed to internal. Me thinks that trying to rinse/flush a boxed trailer will be problematic.

I have a galvanized EZ Loader that is a 1985 that is looking good except for all the U bolts/bolts and leaf springs. I am actually kind of surprised that it is not more corroded than it is.

I will admit I have no experience with corrosion in the trailer area. But do have reasonable knowledge in general. My boat I just bought the boat and trailer in September and look forward to using the boat and trailer.
I am doing a lot of work on my trailer.
 

SuperNova

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Re: C Channel vs. tube trailers ?'s opinions.

Well, I don't think anybody would recommend a painted tube trailer, anyway. Strictly freshwater use.
 

109jb

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Re: C Channel vs. tube trailers ?'s opinions.

Well, I don't think anybody would recommend a painted tube trailer, anyway. Strictly freshwater use.

I don't like tube trailers even for fresh water even though that's what I have right now. Hey, it came with the boat. Fact is that any closed section of any material can't be seen on the inside. Aluminum doesn't rust, but it does corrode. Just like the lower units on boat motors. I would choose a trailer with open section materilas like an I-beam or a C-channel before a box section. Box sections can be advantageous for structural purposes allowing use of a thinner, lighter, box section over what you would need in I-beam or C-channel. However, it isn't enough of an advantage for me to want a box section for a trailer that gets dunked.

As far as aluminum, painted steel, or galvanized, I would actually prefer galvanized, painted steel, and aluminum in that order. Reason being that aluminum fatigues no matter how low the repeated stress applied is. Steel on the other hand has "fatigue limit" which is a stress value where repeated loads below this level essentially don't result in fatigue of the metal. If the trailer is sufficiently strong that the stress levels don't get above the fatigue limit then the trailer should theoretically last forever.

So, steel either painted or galvanized with I-beam or C-channel construction would be my choice, but you don't really see galvanized boat trailers in anything but box section. That pretty much leaves painted steel in C-channel or I-beam construction.

If you can get a galvanized box section trailer that you can insure has been galvanized both inside and out, then that would be good, but I personally would still like to be able to see what is happening on all surfaces of the metal.

Many years ago I helped my Dad build a new boat trailer out of C-channel. There were 2 C-channels that ran the length of the trailer from the coupler all the way back to the rear end. The flanges were notched where necessary for bends and welded. The tongue section had the C-channels back to back and welded to form an I-section. The only places that were boxed were short sections where the coupler bolted on, and at each spring hanger, and the tube axle. Basically it had no closed section that you couldn't see except for the axle which was totally sealed. As I said, I have a box section painted trailer right now, but I've been thinking harder and harder about building one like my Dad and I built years ago for my current boat. I have the space, tools and welder to do it and it could be done in a weekend. We'll see what next year brings.
 

arimatation

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Re: C Channel vs. tube trailers ?'s opinions.

I like the idea of a I beam galvanized or painted trailer.
 

mrdancer

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Re: C Channel vs. tube trailers ?'s opinions.

Okay... how about tubes filled with closed-cell foam? Or would that make the trailer too "floaty" in the water?
 

jeeperman

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Re: C Channel vs. tube trailers ?'s opinions.

If the idea of foam inside is to keep water out, you might as well have the chambers welded 100%. If you had foam inside and still had the drain hole, the foam would likely slow the drain and dry process to zero (I am thinking).
The manufacture could also treat the insides with rust proofing then weld the boxed sections completely. Of course the welding will melt the coating away from the welded areas. Same thing would happen if the tube was galvanized prior to welding, the galvan would melt and burn away from the welds.
But they all have a drain hole (that I have ever seen).
Sometimes the box section/chamber will blow out the very last bit of weld as it is being welded but I think it depends on the size of the chamber.
And at some point those chambers would or could get the trailer to float, I guess.

Someone on page one posted a link to FE-Trailers in California claiming that their tube trailers are hot dip galvanized inside too after fabrication. I would love to take a saw to one and see that for myself.
Unless the chamber hole(s) are pretty dang big, the trailer would have to spend quite a long time in the galvanizing vat. To fill the chambers and then to drain from the chambers.
 

mrdancer

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Re: C Channel vs. tube trailers ?'s opinions.

If the idea of foam inside is to keep water out, you might as well have the chambers welded 100%. If you had foam inside and still had the drain hole, the foam would likely slow the drain and dry process to zero (I am thinking).

Yup, that's why I suggested closed-cell foam, as it is much more impervious to water infiltration than the standard cheap open-cell foam which is so prevalent. The idea was to have a high-quality closed-cell foam PLUS have the tubes welded completely shut, since it is hard to guarantee waterproof welds. My bad, should've stated that in the previous post... :(
 

scottcmb

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Re: C Channel vs. tube trailers ?'s opinions.

I have just completed a total rebuild of my trailer that is 18 years old. i had to replace the total rear half of my trailer as it rusted out in curtain areas and was sagging. Whilst i was cutting the rear half away my curiosity got the better of me and i cut at sections of the tube to see if the zinc galvanising was getting to the whole inside of the tube sections when it was originaly built. And YES it did!. Due to stategicaly drilled holes for the zinc to fill and drain. When i took my completed rebuilt frame to the galvanizers i asked them all about the process and reasons. The main lesson i learnt was that the zinc galvanize coating acts as a sacrificial anode the same way your anodes do on your boat and motor to reduce corrosion at the frame. He said that over time when you start to spot surface rust near the welds and on the bottom of your crossmembers at the rear most part of your trailer that is starting to get to the time to start thinking of re-galvanizing your trailer before the rust starts to really eat at the steel. He said on average with a well used boat that frequents the salt water, the coating will last about 5 years before the critical areas start to get eaten. It makes total sence as you have to replace sacrificial anodes over a curtain time.:)
 

Alpheus

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Re: C Channel vs. tube trailers ?'s opinions.

Here are a couple of pics down the tubes of my broken trailer. As you can see this tube is deteriorating from the inside through out the entire trailer. The paint looks good though. I added a bunch of other pics to this post:

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=367302&page=4


DSC00174.jpg

DSC00176.jpg
 

bruceb58

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Re: C Channel vs. tube trailers ?'s opinions.

Yup, that's why I suggested closed-cell foam, as it is much more impervious to water infiltration than the standard cheap open-cell foam which is so prevalent. The idea was to have a high-quality closed-cell foam PLUS have the tubes welded completely shut, since it is hard to guarantee waterproof welds. My bad, should've stated that in the previous post... :(
Why would you need closed cell foam if you had the tubes completely welded shut?
 

reelfishin

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Re: C Channel vs. tube trailers ?'s opinions.

.................The main lesson i learnt was that the zinc galvanize coating acts as a sacrificial anode the same way your anodes do on your boat and motor to reduce corrosion at the frame. He said that over time when you start to spot surface rust near the welds and on the bottom of your crossmembers at the rear most part of your trailer that is starting to get to the time to start thinking of re-galvanizing your trailer before the rust starts to really eat at the steel. He said on average with a well used boat that frequents the salt water, the coating will last about 5 years before the critical areas start to get eaten. It makes total sense as you have to replace sacrificial anodes over a curtain time.:)

This is a part that most people don't understand, galvanization is a sacrificial coating on a trailer. It wears off with age. Even trailer that just sits in the driveway will lose some of its zinc coating with time.

The main reason for tubular trailers is to save weight, you can build a trailer much lighter to haul the same load with tubing and that trailer will be more rigid.
I would not want any length of tubing that I could not flush out or clean.

Yes, open channel frames seem to hold up better but for one, they are made of heavier gauge metal, and they don't have the closed up areas to hold salt. Even an unrinsed C channel trailer will get rinsed off to some degree when it rains. I for the life of me could never figure out why tubular trailers with curved cross members aren't built with a drain, but then again, when they charge $150+ for a new cross member, I sort of get it.

I have had a few trailers re galvanized but it's usually just not worth the work to strip it down and cart it over to the galvanizing plant. I've done a few smaller trailers that I really liked but only because I had a buddy that worked there at the time.

As far as aluminum, I can't say I'm a fan, aluminum has different stress properties and tends to crack. My first experience with an aluminum trailer wasn't a boat trailer but a flat car trailer. In the span of less than two years I had bolts pulled through, corroded fasteners, broken axle brackets, (torsion axles), and many points where bolt heads had worn loose and cut through the frame. This was on a trailer I used occasionally for a few longer trips. I doubt if it ever saw as much as 10,000 miles before I gave up on it.
The dissimilar metal problem with aluminum and likely hood of salt corrosion would steer me away from an aluminum boat trailer. While the weight savings is attractive for longer tows, the long term problems outweigh the cost difference.

I have mostly Load Rite trailers, and have had only few rusted out cross members, but on older trailers. I don't have any real brand preference, and have no problem with galvanized box tubing so long as it's open ended and can be washed out.

My biggest complaint with any trailer is rusty hardware and rusty fenders. I've yet to see a set of fenders last more than a few years here, whether made of galvanized steel, plastic, or aluminum. The steel rusts out from the bottom edges and bolt holes, plastic gets cooked in the sun and cracks, and aluminum corrodes away from dissimilar metal issues.

I've come to the point where I consider fenders sacrificial items as well, I just buy them by the dozen and replace them every two years, or when the rust and fall off.
 
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