Bulkhead repair

Joined
Jun 14, 2012
Messages
73
Hi my 1976 motor boat 31foot ,has a couple of issues on one of the bulkheads
1)soft area spot where one of the windows had been leaking into unsealed end grain and deck cleat has also been leaking over it I’ve stabbed with sharp tool and damage area seems to about 9”X 9”
2) another patch lower down where the toilet has been leaking and wood is little soft 12” x 4”
Is there an acceptable repair to these areas without full removal of the bulkhead ? I don’t want to remove it as the one side is highly visible, it’s finished with mahogany and it won’t Match if I change it ,and it will be a total pain in the arse to rip the whole thing out, the actual places that are rotten are out of sight , so could I scarf some more plywood in ?, both these areas are close to the tabbing that is stupidly thick @ 1/4 inch thick , when the boat was made all the bulkheads are tabbed in from the factory and have additional stainless nuts and bolts through the tabbing and the plywood bulkheads ( this is factory as I’ve seen it on other boats of the same brand ) it’s a Swedish storebro boat ,

my thoughts are as follows
1)cut out the bad area with oscillating tool leave the tabbing in but clean it back to good glass
2)scarf around the 2 sides of the plywood with say 8-1 ratio
3) bond the plywood with epoxy to the 8-1 bevel and bond the 3rd side directly to the tabbing and put some extra nuts and bolts to help tie to the tabbing
4) add either some fiberglass cloth over one side of the joint (on the hidden side ) or glue and screw an extra piece plywood over the repair to reinforce ?
Before anyone says that won’t be the only rot so just cut it out, genuinely it is ,this boat has hollow stingers throughout and everything else is fine down there
Any input greatly received please see drawing not to scale repair areas lots smaller in relation to bulkhead size
 

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racerone

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Your plan is an excellent way to go.-----Friend bought a 33' sailboat with bottom of bulkheads rotten.----He cut off bottom of bulkhead and used epoxy to glue in new wood.-----Owner had been quoted about $3000 ( 15 years ago ) each bulkhead.-----Previous owner said " wow you know what you are doing "
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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not sure you would need to scarf at 8:1. you could step it with a fly cutter bit in a router.

Wood is a core to separate 2 layers of composite FRP
 
Joined
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Hi thanks for that idea, I’m assuming you mean to affectively turn it into a halving joint? If so that should be far easier than trying to grind a bevel into it ,
how wide would you think the joint should be? Please see picture ,
and would a few layers of biax fabric on one side of the joint be sufficient to reinforce the joint ? Or would I need to fix another piece wood over the joint to help reinforce it even more , if I could just get away with few layers of biax on the one side only would help to keep the repair invisible from the good side of the board, hope this makes sense
 

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racerone

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Need to look at the loads that are supported by a bulkhead.-----This repair is simple in my opinion.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
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47,790
Hi thanks for that idea, I’m assuming you mean to affectively turn it into a halving joint? If so that should be far easier than trying to grind a bevel into it ,
how wide would you think the joint should be? Please see picture ,
and would a few layers of biax fabric on one side of the joint be sufficient to reinforce the joint ? Or would I need to fix another piece wood over the joint to help reinforce it even more , if I could just get away with few layers of biax on the one side only would help to keep the repair invisible from the good side of the board, hope this makes sense
I would do 3T and if using poly, put a layer of PB between the wood.

If not, Tite-Bond III is waterproof

there is always epoxy.

Then again, I would glass over it as well.
 
Joined
Jun 14, 2012
Messages
73
I would do 3T and if using poly, put a layer of PB between the wood.

If not, Tite-Bond III is waterproof

there is always epoxy.

Then again, I would glass over it as well.
Hi I was going to use epoxy as I have lots of that spare from another job , when you say you “would do 3T “what does that mean ?
 
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