Building a 383 Stroker

joewithaboat

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Re: Building a 383 Stroker

Good info on the marine edelbrocks, don't know much about them.

I think the 4150 double pumper is what he is looking at, its not Vacuum secondary. Progressive mechanical, four corner idle. I think they are easy to tune well.
 

John_S

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Re: Building a 383 Stroker

I think the 4150 double pumper is what he is looking at, its not Vacuum secondary. Progressive mechanical, four corner idle. I think they are easy to tune well.

Correct, I was referring to Holley vacuum secondary carbs, not the particular model being discussed.

IMHO, we are still talking about a pleasure boat. If he is looking for the fastest possible acceleration, than a douple pumper makes sense to me. It may not help with trying to keep the alpha alive with the torque this engine can apply. If mainly looking for that wot top speed, a vacuum sec will be fine. It will have plenty of acceleration for wake boards, skis, and other water toys. If drag racing other boats, than the double pumper is more appropriate.

If he is concerned about tuning, and still going with Holley, probably better to start with the marine version, vs converting an auto to marine. I don't know if there is any other marine safety changes (besides J tube) and having the coast guard stamp, but in general, marine carbs are tuned toward the rich side to help keep detonation at bay.
 

joewithaboat

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Re: Building a 383 Stroker

Correct, I was referring to Holley vacuum secondary carbs, not the particular model being discussed.

IMHO, we are still talking about a pleasure boat. If he is looking for the fastest possible acceleration, than a douple pumper makes sense to me. It may not help with trying to keep the alpha alive with the torque this engine can apply. If mainly looking for that wot top speed, a vacuum sec will be fine. It will have plenty of acceleration for wake boards, skis, and other water toys. If drag racing other boats, than the double pumper is more appropriate.

If he is concerned about tuning, and still going with Holley, probably better to start with the marine version, vs converting an auto to marine. I don't know if there is any other marine safety changes (besides J tube) and having the coast guard stamp, but in general, marine carbs are tuned toward the rich side to help keep detonation at bay.

John
I agree with all you have said, and i think it has all been gone over earlier in this thread. I'm not sure about the "other" differences of the marine version. I know from looking at the outside, about the j tube. I've never taken a marine version apart. Ive seen folks speculate about o rings on the throttle shafts, different floats, different needle and seat, etc.... For sure it is best to use a marine version.

As to the vacuum vs mechanical carb.. I had never had a lot of luck fine tuning the vac secondary on hopped up cars .... I'm certain that others have...i went to mechanical and loved it right away. Not sure where that line ,this vs that, would be in a boat. I know most of the time when you see a 400 plus hp small block in a boat it has a Holley DP on it.

I am watching this thread cause I plan to put a hot small block in a family type boat i.e. a 24ish foot bow rider. I just need to get rid of my 19 foot and find the 24... i was initially going to do it in current boat but the 4.3 runs so well and its a little small to keep as the kids grow. Id love to an LS series but not sure the cost is worth it.

Alphas seem to do fine as long as its healthy and you treat it properly. If you treat any of them, even the big imco's, improperly they will break regardless.

Waiting for the build part of the thread :D
 

John_S

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Re: Building a 383 Stroker

Tuning a carb on a boat, is different than a car. Some things are easier, some more difficult. Accelleration tests on the water, harder to gauge. No O2 sensors, and reading plugs in this alcohol and detergent days, is not the easiest. My point was since you have to let up on the accel to save the alpha, having the DP for raw accel, won't buy you much, and the edelbrock may be a better choice for now. Saving the OP a few $.

When you are searching for your 24' hull, look for ones that are more performance oriented. You will end up with higher speed and better handling, than using a "generic" family boat. Most 24'ers that had a BB option, should be ok. Starting with a bravo drive over an alpha, would be a plus. The OP has a formula, and should be fine. Might have to add some tabs if he doesn't have them already.
 

greg82255

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Re: Building a 383 Stroker

Tuning a carb on a boat, is different than a car. Some things are easier, some more difficult. Accelleration tests on the water, harder to gauge. No O2 sensors, and reading plugs in this alcohol and detergent days, is not the easiest. My point was since you have to let up on the accel to save the alpha, having the DP for raw accel, won't buy you much, and the edelbrock may be a better choice for now. Saving the OP a few $.

When you are searching for your 24' hull, look for ones that are more performance oriented. You will end up with higher speed and better handling, than using a "generic" family boat. Most 24'ers that had a BB option, should be ok. Starting with a bravo drive over an alpha, would be a plus. The OP has a formula, and should be fine. Might have to add some tabs if he doesn't have them already.

I actually do have a set of Bennett tabs on there, although I haven't needed them much. I've looked at the Edelbrock 1410 and the Holley 4150 a lot over the last few days and I think I'm going to go with the Edelbrock. It should be fine for now and it's between $150 and $200 cheaper. Also hoping it won't require much tuning, as I'm no expert at playing with carbs.
 

joewithaboat

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Re: Building a 383 Stroker

I think that is a safe play for now, and prob for the best. That being said, if you continue to tinker you will end up with a Holley. :D
 

greg82255

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Re: Building a 383 Stroker

Thanks for the manual. That will definitely come in handy when I am ready to deal with he carb.

All of my parts are in at the machine shop. I'm going to be picking it up on Thursday morning. Going to Florida this weekend so I won't be getting any work done, but next weekend I'll jump right in. I'll get my new thread started with pics on Thursday. Thanks everyone for the help along the way. I'm sure I'll be needing more when I actually start putting everything together.
 

greg82255

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Re: Building a 383 Stroker

Just figured I'd give an update. I picked up everything from the machine shop last Thursday. Everything looks great. The shop owner spent an hour with me going over everything that I need to look out for and pay close attention to while I build the engine. He also said that after I build the short block I can bring it back to him and he will check it over, and then he will measure the push rod size for me. Unfortunately school has picked up the pace sine I got the motor and I won't be able to get started until next week when I have some time off for thanksgiving. Once I get going, I'll get my new thread started with pictures and will probably be looking for some help along the way.

I also asked him about 1.6 rockers and he said I could use those no problem, so I returned the 1.5 rockers to summit and bought 1.6. The only thing I am not sure about is the intake. He still strongly suggests the performer instead of the RPM or air gap. I think I am going to buy a performer RPM air gap to go with the edelbrock 1410.
 

Tail_Gunner

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Re: Building a 383 Stroker

Have you figured out your quench area for the vortec heads gasket combo??
 

greg82255

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Re: Building a 383 Stroker

Ummmm.... Good question, I'm not sure. The block was decked but I'm not sure how much material was removed. I can ask the machinist today and post it later. I know the head gaskets he gave me are .041" compressed thickness and the pistons are -23cc dish. Does that help?
 
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