Building a 350 Vortec motor

Maddoxsdaddy

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Re: Building a 350 Vortec motor

I'll change the springs to avoid future problems. I like to run wide open periodically and don't need the issues. The heads are sitting at the shop waiting on me to get springs and cam so they can machine whatever they need to. I already planned on spending the money on it so no big deal.
 

John_S

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Re: Building a 350 Vortec motor

Good insurance with the springs.

I assume you are moving the ignition from the crownline to the vortec. If it is Thuderbolt V, it will have a rev limiter built in. If IV, then no limiter.
 

Maddoxsdaddy

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Re: Building a 350 Vortec motor

Good insurance with the springs.

I assume you are moving the ignition from the crownline to the vortec. If it is Thuderbolt V, it will have a rev limiter built in. If IV, then no limiter.

Crud.. hadn't thought of that one. I can't remember if its a IV or V.
 

John_S

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Re: Building a 350 Vortec motor

Crud.. hadn't thought of that one. I can't remember if its a IV or V.

Well, neither have adjustable timing curves. Both require expensive module change for that. Unless, you are trying to run above 5K, the rev limiter shouldn't be a problem. That cam is not too far above stock, so that is probably not an issue.
 

Maddoxsdaddy

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Re: Building a 350 Vortec motor

Well, neither have adjustable timing curves. Both require expensive module change for that. Unless, you are trying to run above 5K, the rev limiter shouldn't be a problem. That cam is not too far above stock, so that is probably not an issue.

The cam is only spec'd to run up to 5000 so it shouldn't be a problem. What i am having a problem with is finding a brass tipped fuel pump push rod because the rod i have is meant for cast cams, not steel. I've looked on flea-bay, called Advance Auto, and NAPA with no luck.:confused:
 

joewithaboat

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Re: Building a 350 Vortec motor

The cam is only spec'd to run up to 5000 so it shouldn't be a problem. What i am having a problem with is finding a brass tipped fuel pump push rod because the rod i have is meant for cast cams, not steel. I've looked on flea-bay, called Advance Auto, and NAPA with no luck.:confused:

Take your pick... comes in the mail on 3rd day or faster if you pay more.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/...eyword=fuel+pump+pushrod&kr=fuel+pump+pushrod
 

Tail_Gunner

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Re: Building a 350 Vortec motor

I guess it possible it came in a police cruiser, but kinda doubt it. It is not a computer friendly cam.

Springs will be borderline, at best. Comp Cams looks like they recommend a 120lb seat pressure spring. Stock vortec, I believe are 80lb. Heads willl need mod for the lift. There are beehive style springs that do allow extra lift on vortec heads. They are more expensive: http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/vortec_valve_spring_upgrade/index.html


Vortec heads do not accomodate lift over .470. You can use beehive's with retainer's or have the heads cut for the lift. You can also use LS6 springs with compcam retainers for budget considerations. Compcam XM series have very high ramp lobes it would advisable to change your stock springs....there pretty sloppy and its very cheap insurance.
 

Maddoxsdaddy

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Re: Building a 350 Vortec motor

Vortec heads do not accomodate lift over .470. You can use beehive's with retainer's or have the heads cut for the lift. You can also use LS6 springs with compcam retainers for budget considerations. Compcam XM series have very high ramp lobes it would advisable to change your stock springs....there pretty sloppy and its very cheap insurance.

Looks like i'll be calling Summit this evening... So, just the springs and retainers? And are you sure LS6 GM Beehives will work for my application?

Thanks!
 

Tail_Gunner

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Maddoxsdaddy

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Scott Danforth

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Re: Building a 350 Vortec motor

talk to the guys behind the counter at your local speed shop. they live and breath valve train every day. I would also recommend getting your guides machined for higher lift and better seals anyway. when they machine the heads, they can recommend the right springs, retainers, rockers, etc.
 

Tail_Gunner

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Re: Building a 350 Vortec motor

-Retainer, steel http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-774-16/
Comp Cams 774 $59

-Keepers, 7-degree http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-648-16/
Comp Cams 648-16 $28
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12499224/

For peace of mind: 1-330-630-0240 summit tech support

Just inform them you are using the ls6 spring's yellow in color or blue with comp retainers on vortec heads for increased lift with no maching done to the heads. This mod is extremely popular and very old.
 

Tail_Gunner

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Re: Building a 350 Vortec motor

talk to the guys behind the counter at your local speed shop. they live and breath valve train every day. I would also recommend getting your guides machined for higher lift and better seals anyway. when they machine the heads, they can recommend the right springs, retainers, rockers, etc.

If your changing to i.6 rockers agreed staying with 1.5 nothing changes on geometry

However to the orignal poster you do need to change the pinned studs to apr screw in studs..I hope you have not overlooked that.
 

joewithaboat

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Re: Building a 350 Vortec motor

However to the orignal poster you do need to change the pinned studs to apr screw in studs..I hope you have not overlooked that.

I missed the part about the studs being pinned. If they are... its nearly impossible to remove them and replace with screw in. Most of the time its a blind hole with a hardened roll pin.
 

Tail_Gunner

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Re: Building a 350 Vortec motor

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56505&page=2


First off, a warning: This post is a sig-hunter’s dream. I will be using phrases like “pinning the rocker stud,” or “studs pulling-out” or even, “I prefer tapping the stud-bosses.” Please get all of your chuckles out of the way now .

That being said, one of the most common mods done to stock Vortec heads is upgrading the pressed-in rocker studs. Many will argue that the modern Vortec pressed-in studs are not as prone to pulling out as they were in older heads. While that is true, wilder Vortec engine combos with fully ported heads and higher valve lift are becoming more common and securing the studs is cheap insurance, IMO.
There are several methods to choose from for securing rocker studs. The first is pinning the stock studs. My current Vortec heads have pinned studs, but they were done by the previous owner. I don’t have any info on this method so I’ll let someone else discuss it.
The second method, and the one I’m going to discuss, is machining the head for screw-in studs WITHOUT GUIDEPLATES. To do this you will need a set of 3/8” shoulder-less screw-in rocker studs, five of the pivot balls from the rockers, the rocker stud nuts, a rocker-stud tap-guide and arbor (sold by ProForm and other manufacturers for about $13), a 7/16” – 14 self-bottoming tap, the biggest t-handle you can find, a socket set, a breaker bar or long-handled ratchet, and one non-self-locking nut to fit over the studs. You can also do this with an air-ratchet but it’s easier to screw up (no pun intended). The procedure is as follows:

1. Remove the pressed-in studs:
- Stack 3 pivot balls over the first rocker stud
- Tighten nut on to the stud slowly, using the breaker bar and socket. Make sure you don’t bottom the nut out on the threads. This is why using an air tool is dangerous.
- When you get close to running out of threads, remove the nut, stack another pivot ball on to the stud and continue to tighten the nut. Repeat this until the stud pulls out completely.
- Use this procedure on the other studs. Only remove EVERY OTHER STUD at this point. For example, remove all the exhaust studs or intake studs only. You will need the others to be in the head.
2. Install the tap guide:
- The tap guide is made up of two parts: an arbor (this part fits into the hole left by the stud) and the guide itself, a block of steel with a hole that fits over the stud left in the head and a partially threaded hole that guides the tap. Place the tap over the first pair of stud bosses. The threaded side of the tap guide should be facing down (against the hole left by the stud).
- Insert the arbor into the hole to line up the guide and tighten a rocker nut down onto the adjacent stud. This will keep it in place while you tap the threads.
3. Tap the threads:
- After making sure the tap guide assembly is all squared-up, thread the tap into the hole through the guide. Cast iron is soft so lubricant is not necessary. Plus, it makes clean-up a mess.
- Go slowly, keeping the tap vertical and back it out every so often to break up any big chunks. Keep going ‘til it bottoms out.
- Use a vacuum to clean out the threads and use a screw-in stud to check for the right thread depth. Rocker studs can be found here: http://midwestmotorsportsinc.com/ord...RM348&line=PNR
- Once the stud fits, remove the tap guide and follow the steps for removing the adjacent pressed in stud.
- Temporarily install the screw-in stud in the threaded hole and set up the tap guide as described above. Use a non-self locking nut to tighten down the guide.
- Follow the steps for tapping the threads. Repeat for each pair of studs.
4. Install the screw-in studs:
- Once the threads are thoroughly cleaned, screw-in the studs.
- Remember to apply thread sealer to the studs that penetrate the water passages and oil on the others.
- Torque the studs down to 50 ft. lbs. using two nuts locked against each other.



- Stand back, look at the bruises on your hands and ask yourself why you didn’t just pay a machine shop to do this for you........;)
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