Bought my first boat to tinker on. Looking for advice

[redneck joe]

I was thinking along those lines.

 

[The Force power]

Here's all the pics I took of the motor as requested.

This is a '89 Force
IF the electronics are good and the Cylinder-wall(s) not too badly scored; it would be a great motor to repair.
I've done a few (6) of them & own four of them

 

[TripleJGraffis]

No guessing required; that is the trailering support bracket for the Force engine. While the engine is trimmed up this bracket slides in the holes from the transom-brackets & kept in place with a cotter-pin through one of the ends
I lost mine once at the boat launch & retrieved at the end of the season with a magnet.

Excellent! I did not know that! I will toss it with the force then! Thank you so much!

 

[TripleJGraffis]

This is a '89 Force
IF the electronics are good and the Cylinder-wall(s) not too badly scored; it would be a great motor to repair.
I've done a few (6) of them & own four of them

See.......That is what I wanted to do originally, but every single person I reached out to has told me that these engines are cr@p and weren't even that good when they were new. Many tell me that they are hard to find parts for. One said I couldn't even pay him to work on it for me if I wanted. Old owner removed gaskets and the pistons and said that it needed to be bored out and new slightly larger pistons put in. When I tried finding larger pistons, I was told that they are impossible to find for this motor. This ultimately led me to buy another used motor that I am hoping I can tinker with once I get a new stand built to hold it while it is running.....Assuming that i get it running. Old engine owner said it is winterized and that it was just running perfectly on his pontoon and removed to put a bigger one on. I got it super cheap so I am hoping he was just wanting to be rid of a good engine to make space for a new one.

 

[The Force power]

See.......That is what I wanted to do originally, but every single person I reached out to has told me that these engines are cr@p and weren't even that good when they were new.

This is matter of opinion(s) there's equal amount that would state the opposite

Many tell me that they are hard to find parts for. One said I couldn't even pay him to work on it for me if I wanted.

Finding parts can be a daunting task(not impossible/cheap) but neither is the boat you're working on

Old owner removed gaskets and the pistons and said that it needed to be bored out and new slightly larger pistons put in.

Looks like the pistons are still in the block, the cylinder-wall would need to be inspected for scores

When I tried finding larger pistons, I was told that they are impossible to find for this motor.

They are out there.
If rebuilding a motor is not your thing, then yes; you're better off getting some thing else my mistake good luck with the new purchase.
Sorry, I just realized that you got something else already
However you can some good $$ for the ignition-pars & lower-unit providing they're good

 

[TripleJGraffis]

This is matter of opinion(s) there's equal amount that would state the opposite

Finding parts can be a daunting task(not impossible/cheap) but neither is the boat you're working on

Looks like the pistons are still in the block, the cylinder-wall would need to be inspected for scores

They are out there.
If rebuilding a motor is not your thing, then yes; you're better off getting some thing else my mistake good luck with the new purchase.
Sorry, I just realized that you got something else already
However you can some good $$ for the ignition-pars & lower-unit providing they're good

Thanks for all the info, but yeah, I already got a replacement motor. I just realized that the skeg(spelling) on the lower unit of the force has a massive 2 inch chip taken out of it. I could play with the motor, but I don't think anyone would want that lower unit with a chip that size. I am just going to try to sell it for whatever I can get.

 

[The Force power]

the skeg(spelling) on the lower unit of the force has a massive 2 inch chip taken out of it. I could play with the motor, but I don't think anyone would want that lower unit with a chip that size. I am just going to try to sell it for whatever I can get.

IF the inner parts are good, a piece missing out of the Skeg would not de-value the lower-unit (here in Ontario, Canada it would sell $200-250)

 

[TripleJGraffis]

IF the inner parts are good, a piece missing out of the Skeg would not de-value the lower-unit (here in Ontario, Canada it would sell $200-250)

Would the damage comprimise anything or the way that the motor propels the boat? If that is thae case, based on what you have been telling me, perhaps I will keep the force and make it a 2nd project to tinker on and see if I can't eventually get it runnning and then either keep it as a backup, or make a higher profit.

 

[The Force power]

Would the damage comprimise anything or the way that the motor propels the boat?

A damaged skeg does not affect the steering/moving the boat, it is mostly there to protect the prop.
A closer inspection of the the prop-shaft(IF bent) & color of oil (gray/milky) will tell its condition

get it runnning and then either keep it as a backup, or make a higher profit.

Repairing this motor is for having a motor (or spare?) not for profit, if you want profit; you sell the parts

 

[TripleJGraffis]

A damaged skeg does not affect the steering/moving the boat, it is mostly there to protect the prop.
A closer inspection of the the prop-shaft(IF bent) & color of oil (gray/milky) will tell its condition

Repairing this motor is for having a motor (or spare?) not for profit, if you want profit; you sell the parts

Noted. Thanks!

 

[redneck joe]

They make skegguards that slip over damage.8f motor work out as hoped, just buy one then.

 

[TripleJGraffis]

They make skegguards that slip over damage.8f motor work out as hoped, just buy one then.

Great to know! Thanks!

 

[TripleJGraffis]

Can anyone tell me if this would be a good place to cut the engine well to get to the transom?

 

[todhunter]

I would cut on the flats. It'll be easier to block sand a surface flat vs. trying to align everything and rebuild that radius when you go to put the piece back in. Think hard about whether or not you want to really try to install a transom and do glass-work through a hole with rough cut fiberglass edges before you cut it out. The alternative would be pulling the cap. Future-you might thank past-you for changing your mind.

 

[TripleJGraffis]

I would cut on the flats. It'll be easier to block sand a surface flat vs. trying to align everything and rebuild that radius when you go to put the piece back in. Think hard about whether or not you want to really try to install a transom and do glass-work through a hole with rough cut fiberglass edges before you cut it out. The alternative would be pulling the cap. Future-you might thank past-you for changing your mind.

Are you able to show me what you mean as far as cutting the flats?

I would not be installing the transom through the hole. I would install it under the well and up into the cap. The well is just there in the way of the upper transom. The bottom half of the transom is easily accessible.

 

[briangcc]

I'd de-cap it instead of cutting into perfectly good fiberglass. It'll be more of a pain to get right afterwards. No way you're matching gelcoat after this amount of time. If you're like me, it'd annoy me to no end not matching.

 

[todhunter]

Are you able to show me what you mean as far as cutting the flats?

I would not be installing the transom through the hole. I would install it under the well and up into the cap. The well is just there in the way of the upper transom. The bottom half of the transom is easily accessible.

I see. While that looks much better than I initially thought....I'd still consider pulling the cap. I totally get it...I was really against it too on my build until I did it. In the end, I was glad I did, as it afforded me much easier access to everything.

Regarding cutting on the flat areas - just expand your blue dotted line out a little bit. This way you're cutting on a flat surface instead of along the edge of the tub.

 

[TripleJGraffis]

I'd de-cap it instead of cutting into perfectly good fiberglass. It'll be more of a pain to get right afterwards. No way you're matching gelcoat after this amount of time. If you're like me, it'd annoy me to no end not matching.

I was thinking on going with a possible new color scheme all around. I have nowhere to safely store the cap.

 

[TripleJGraffis]

I see. While that looks much better than I initially thought....I'd still consider pulling the cap. I totally get it...I was really against it too on my build until I did it. In the end, I was glad I did, as it afforded me much easier access to everything.

Regarding cutting on the flat areas - just expand your blue dotted line out a little bit. This way you're cutting on a flat surface instead of along the edge of the tub.

I have nowhere to safely store the cap. This transom is literally all that is left of the difficult stuff to rip out

Is it possible to cut the cap just back by the engine well?

 

[racerone]

Post a picture of the transom at the back.----One way is to cut out the outside skin.-----Replace the core.----Glue the skin back on.