Bottom up restoration! MY FIRST BOAT

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Donnygeewebb

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Todays progress. All holes have been feathered/bored out and it’s starting to look like a normal boat hull!
 

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JASinIL2006

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Any and all serial numbers are completely gone. The only thing that I can identify is the G a tag number on the side. Would they be able to use this number to identify the boat?

Personally, I'd be hesitant to put any more work or money into the boat until you have registered/licensed it under your name. Your best resource is whoever registers and/or titles boats in your state. In some places, it's the Department of Natural Resources. That would be my #1 priority...
 

Donnygeewebb

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Personally, I'd be hesitant to put any more work or money into the boat until you have registered/licensed it under your name. Your best resource is whoever registers and/or titles boats in your state. In some places, it's the Department of Natural Resources. That would be my #1 priority...
That is my plan tomorrow. From my research being away from the boat, I should be able to get a new set of serial numbers from the Georgia Department of revenue.
 

Donnygeewebb

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Personally, I'd be hesitant to put any more work or money into the boat until you have registered/licensed it under your name. Your best resource is whoever registers and/or titles boats in your state. In some places, it's the Department of Natural Resources. That would be my #1 priority...
That is also the benefit to owning a remodeling company. As of right now I have zero dollars invested in this boat So far
 

flashback

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I lived there several years ago and it was no problem if you have a driver's license and bill of sale for the boat. May have changed since then though...

You may want to wait until you know the outcome of the restoration, no point in paying for the registration until you know if it floats..
 

Donnygeewebb

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I lived there several years ago and it was no problem if you have a driver's license and bill of sale for the boat. May have changed since then though...

You may want to wait until you know the outcome of the restoration, no point in paying for the registration until you know if it floats..
I’m pretty stubborn, and I’m willing to spend the money to make sure that this thing floats. Just ordered 100 yard roll of fiberglass Mat to patch all of the damage to this hull. I just purchased 1990 Johnson 50 seahorse for $100 on marketplace. I plan on rebuilding the motor and making it good as new.
 

Donnygeewebb

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I’m pretty stubborn, and I’m willing to spend the money to make sure that this thing floats. Just ordered 100 yard roll of fiberglass Mat to patch all of the damage to this hull. I just purchased 1990 Johnson 50 seahorse for $100 on marketplace. I plan on rebuilding the motor and making it good as new.
I basically acquired the boat for free by pulling it off of someone’s property. I’m going to have my brother create a bill of sale and try to make some serial numbers happen.
 

Donnygeewebb

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I picked up a 90s Johnson 50 yesterday for 125 bucks. The previous owner knows absolutely nothing about it, going to check it out today to see if I have compression. I’ve never personally worked on a two-stroke engine before but I have mechanic experience, and everybody tells me two strokes are super easy to work on, so this will be a new adventure for sure.

I watched a five minute YouTube video to figure out how to build the motor support
 

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Donnygeewebb

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Actually found out it’s an 81’ Johnson although the guy sold it as a 90. Not upset about it though.
 

Donnygeewebb

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Anybody familiar with these engines? 1981 Johnson 50 electric start. There is a bearing inside the foot that is locked up and I think that’s why they set it down and forgot about it. I cannot seem to get this propeller assembly out. Any advice? Or a forum that would have pointers?
 

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todhunter

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My boat is an inboard/outboard, but is still a fiberglass/wood boat like yours. You can click the link in my signature for a very detailed (and long) thread with lots of pictures on the restoration of my boat.

You'll want to use 1708 fiberglass in addition to the chopped strand mat (CSM) fiberglass and I would recommend using polyester resin over epoxy due to the speed at which it allows you to work and the money it will save you. Make sure you're buying your resin from a big supplier who turns over their inventory often. If you buy some old resin, it may not work, and you'll end up with a helluva mess to clean up.

I bought all my glass, resin, and foam from US Composites. When you buy pour foam, you need to select the correct density (probably 2 lb) and usually it will tell you how much cubic feet it will fill. You should note that if you are not pouring the foam in 90F+ weather, your yield will likely be lower than advertised. My boat is 19 ft and I needed 2 kits (4 gallons).
 

Drivewayboater2

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Aug 21, 2019
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Getting the bearing carrier (as it’s called) out can be tricky. You need to get or build a puller. There’s a couple videos on you tube about it. Next is penetrating oil, heat , and patience. Took me 2 weeks of that process to get mine out. depending on where the engine was salt or fresh water will make a difference. Good luck. The folks on here are amazing with their knowledge. Ive learn so many things of what and what not to do’s 😆
 

Donnygeewebb

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Apr 2, 2023
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Getting the bearing carrier (as it’s called) out can be tricky. You need to get or build a puller. There’s a couple videos on you tube about it. Next is penetrating oil, heat , and patience. Took me 2 weeks of that process to get mine out. depending on where the engine was salt or fresh water will make a difference. Good luck. The folks on here are amazing with their knowledge. Ive learn so many things of what and what not to do’s 😆
If someone could call me and possibly FaceTime what I have going on, would be extremely beneficial. This thing is in there!!!!! I’ve rented almost every puller that O’Reillys has to offer and to no avail…. I really do not want to buy this cooler on Amazon for $200. Someone give me a call who has experience in this! 8504438085 I don’t have much to offer other than a great referral on this forum! But any help would be amazing
 

Donnygeewebb

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My boat is an inboard/outboard, but is still a fiberglass/wood boat like yours. You can click the link in my signature for a very detailed (and long) thread with lots of pictures on the restoration of my boat.

You'll want to use 1708 fiberglass in addition to the chopped strand mat (CSM) fiberglass and I would recommend using polyester resin over epoxy due to the speed at which it allows you to work and the money it will save you. Make sure you're buying your resin from a big supplier who turns over their inventory often. If you buy some old resin, it may not work, and you'll end up with a helluva mess to clean up.

I bought all my glass, resin, and foam from US Composites. When you buy pour foam, you need to select the correct density (probably 2 lb) and usually it will tell you how much cubic feet it will fill. You should note that if you are not pouring the foam in 90F+ weather, your yield will likely be lower than advertised. My boat is 19 ft and I needed 2 kits (4 gallons).
I will look into this as far as my fiberglass work goes! Right now, I need a boat motor that is operational, so that is my new objective. But I will definitely be sure to go back to this later when we are doing the fiberglass work.

My overall goal is to have a show ready, vintage boat for as cheap as I can possibly do it. I’m so sick of hearing people tell me what BOAT stands for and I firmly diss-believe in that.
 
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