Bone headed move - put the plug in with 3M 4200

[Chris1956]

Lou, you can buy the Wallyworld "Marine Boat trailer and equipment grease". It has a cool blue color.....It works pretty good as well.

 

[dingbat]

Evinrude Triple Guard grease is what I use on things like this. Can't get used to the fact that they changed the color from that cool blue color to some baby poop brown though.

Good to know.....
When did that happen?
The batch of refill cartridges I ordered back in March was blue.

I guess next order will be Bel-Ray Blue, noted on Triple Guard data sheet

 

[alldodge]

Supertech Marine (blue) and Mult-duty (red)

 

[Lou C]

I know some people think Lucas is sketchy because of some of their snake oil products but their blue marine grease I think is excellent. It is a calcium sulfonate grease with better specs than any lithium complex grease I have seen….

 

[Lou C]

Good to know.....
When did that happen?
The batch of refill cartridges I ordered back in March was blue.

I guess next order will be Bel-Ray Blue, noted on Triple Guard data sheet

Sometime earlier this year I think

 

[Grub54891]

Gee. I put nothing on my plugs and don't overtighten them. They come out easy and don't leak.

 

[dingbat]

FWIW:
Triple Guard grease (#508297) is now (was?) an aluminum and barium complex grease.

Note: Triple Guard packaging states - Not suitable for use in wheeling bearings or universal joints. Interesting given that barium is typically used to support EP operation.

Various SDS and MDS documentation points to Bel-Ray as the supplier.

Bel-Ray product literature:
"Waterproof Grease is a long-lasting waterproof grease providing maximum protection against wear, rust and water washout. It repels water and acts as an excellent seal for bushings, bearings, all chassis lubrication points and other applications exposed to wet conditions and a wide temperature range. Waterproof Grease’s tacky texture makes it
resistant to impact and wiping action − the grease stays where it’s needed"

https://www.belray.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/BR-Waterproof-Grease-PDS-23Nov2021.pdf

 

[Lou C]

I recall hearing that the triple guard was not for wheel bearings; I used it on driveshaft splines on my I/O and on the shifter bell crank inside the transom mount on the Cobra outdrive. BRP actually marketed a different grease for wheel bearings. Years back I used Pennzoil Marine (also blue) for the trailer wheel bearings and the I/O gimble bearing & Ujoints. When that was discontinued I switched to the Lucas Marine grease.

 

[JimS123]

My last 2 trailers were private labeled, but manufactured by Karavan. Before the first winterizations I called Karavan with the serial numbers and asked specifically what wheal bearing grease was used.

They were 2 years apart and sure enough 2 different products were used. Each time I bought a couple tubes of the grease, good enough for a few years. I noted differences in color among the 2 years and sure enough they gave me the correct info.

I know some are better than others and I won't debate what's best. Eons ago I mixed two different brands and had a disaster, not knowing that they were incompatible due to different chemistry. Regardless, with EZLube hubs it sure saves time if you are able to use the same product.

 

[Lou C]

There are charts online that show which grease is compatible with which. If you have lithium complex grease it’s easy since that’s the base of most greases.

 

[JimS123]

There are charts online that show which grease is compatible with which. If you have lithium complex grease it’s easy since that’s the base of most greases.

When I had my issue there was no "online". We only had one local marine supply store, plus the Herter's catalog. West Marine had not yet moved into town. The "Lubricants Dealer" close to me sold wheel bearing grease - one for autos and one for boat trailers.

We all should be thankful that technology has evolved as much as it has. The problem is that way back when there was not much to read......now nobody bothers to read....

 

[Lou C]

Well yes things are better now for sure I recall manually repacking the front wheel bearings of my VWs in the 1970s with that nasty smelling fibrous yellow grease! Yuk!

 

[froggy1150]

I use castrol pyroplex blue

 

[crazy charlie]

Get the debonding agent specifically for 4200/5200 3M .OR....heat gun on high till it softens and it WILL soften ,twist and pull it out after it is hot as hell and carve the residual out with a knife and try to stay away from doing stupid things like you did.Charlie

 

[Fun Times]

Get the debonding agent specifically for 4200/5200 3M

Right on Charlie, I just noticed you've have been recommending the debonding agent for 20 years after looking at the date of the following post of yours...

4200 or 5200 sealant

I am putting a through hull in tommorrow and would like peoples opinion on whether to use 4200 or 5200 sealant. I obviously don't want a leak and probably won't ever need to remove a brass through hull fitting (on the bottom of the hull under the engine, just ahead of the engine) If I screw up...

forums.iboats.com

Had the de-bonder always been in an liquid pump style bottle? Seems they also now have? an aerosol type can as the advertisement below says new look and spray-head?

Un-hesive 3M 5200 Sealant and Adhesive Remover

Un-hesive 5200 remover will help de-bond structural adhesives marine sealants and bedding compounds from boat gelcoat and other surfaces. Remove thru-hull

store.marinebeam.com

DeBond Corporation

Marine Formula™ is a specially formulated patented mixture that cleans and removes adhesives and sealants.

marineformula.com

Marine Formula™
5oz Aerosol​

Marine Formula™ is a specially formulated patented mixture that cleans and removes...
Learn More

Marine Formula™
10oz Aerosol​

Marine Formula™ is a specially formulated patented mixture that cleans and removes adhesives and sealants used on and inside the boat. Use Marine Formula™ to clean-up and remove these common marine adhesives and sealants.

 

[JASinIL2006]

That debonder looks pretty nifty, but for less than $10 (2/3 the cost of the debonding agent), you could just replace the whole flange and plug.

 

[cyclops222]

Or you do a screw up like I did on the little Aluminum boat drain. Put the rubber expanding drain plug in. Finger tight. Replaced it 15 ? years ago.
Will have to drill it out. Rubber cooked to drain tube. Oh well.

 

[Grub54891]

I use nothing on the plug and only snug it in. it never leaks and easily comes out in the fall.

 

[SkaterRace]

Have you tried to get it out?

The tensile strength of 4200 is low and it doesn’t hold very well on metal (bronze) unless clean and primed.

I did not manage to get it out and ended up going the route of having it replaced when the boat got winterized. I fell sick shortly after posting and once better and catching up had some life events happen to take my attention away from the boat.

I tried wrench, impact wrench, breaker bar. In the end nothing would move it. I learned my lesson pay really close attention to what you use and don't think it is just a easy to remove seleant.

 

[dingbat]

I did not manage to get it out and ended up going the route of having it replaced when the boat got winterized. I fell sick shortly after posting and once better and catching up had some life events happen to take my attention away from the boat.

I tried wrench, impact wrench, breaker bar. In the end nothing would move it. I learned my lesson pay really close attention to what you use and don't think it is just an easy to remove seleant.

You have more going on than just the sealant.

There isn’t a sealer on the market that would withstand the force of an impact gun.

Having said that, the plugs are tapered, dry seal connections. They should be “snug”, but not tight. Over tightening will gull (distort and damage) the threads, making removal almost impossible as you have found out