Boat leaking through transom, NOT belllows or rot! really need HELP! thanks

[DeepBlue2010]

Both opinions are best "guesses" based on what you shared and both are equally likely. It is totally up to you to decide which to pursue first. If it was me, I would start with the drive since I will be pulling it out to perform end of season maintenance anyway.

 

[Lukelona]

Exhaust seal - #13 on this page:
https://www.perfprotech.com/mercruis.../30?model=4224

I'm guessing on model of sterndrive since you didn't post any specs, year or whatever.

Generally speaking you have to pull the engine to work on that. You may be able to check bolt tightness, but it's a bear. Pulling the engine usually take less than an hour, you'll cuss just the bolts longer than that.

Rick

sorry it's a 1987 mercruiser 190 3.7 liter i4
Don't know the numbers off hand but looks just like above pic.

 

[Lukelona]

Both opinions are best "guesses" based on what you shared and both are equally likely. It is totally up to you to decide which to pursue first. If it was me, I would start with the drive since I will be pulling it out to perform end of season maintenance anyway.

Ok thank you, I'll pull drive first since that should be easier to start with. This isn't year end maintenance on this boat, it'll be used all winter long for striper fishing lol.
I'll also check bolt tightness in exhaust.
If both of them check out I'll have to pull engine I guess.
Although the boat is so tall on trailer I don't think a engine hoist will reach it lol. Still have to figure that out.

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Ok thank you, I'll pull drive first since that should be easier to start with. This isn't year end maintenance on this boat, it'll be used all winter long for striper fishing lol.
I'll also check bolt tightness in exhaust.
If both of them check out I'll have to pull engine I guess.
Although the boat is so tall on trailer I don't think a engine hoist will reach it lol. Still have to figure that out.

Man! I wish we can do this here in Seattle.


If you have to pull the engine, you have few options

You can build a relatively simple structure to help you pull it out. If it comes to this point, I can share few designs with you.
You can also trail it to any facility that has a larger hoist and they can left it and put it in your truck, should cost that much

 

[Lukelona]

Man! I wish we can do this here in Seattle.


If you have to pull the engine, you have few options

You can build a relatively simple structure to help you pull it out. If it comes to this point, I can share few designs with you.
You can also trail it to any facility that has a larger hoist and they can left it and put it in your truck, should cost that much

Appreciate that. I have friends I could borrow a tow truck from.( I'm in the towing business) But I'd rather have a plan to do it myself.
If it comes to that I'd love to hear your ideas

Also I live here in Virginia so our winters are usually pretty mild. We barely reach freezing temp most of the time.lol

 

[DeepBlue2010]

I wish i can say they are my ideas, it is the collective wisdom i gathered from some board members during their restoration projects. The structure is very simple. A strong beam suspended horizontally by a frame of 2 inverted Ts one on each side to form a base and support for the beam. With 45 angle support betwwen the beam and the vertical members of the inverted T.

Add a winch, electric or manual, and you done. Of course it has to be scured with the right mechanical fasters and braces but i am sure you know that already.

By the way, did not mean any offense with my answer before. Just saw so many people seeking sure answers while the already have good leads to follow.

 

[Rick Stephens]

sorry it's a 1987 mercruiser 190 3.7 liter i4
Don't know the numbers off hand but looks just like above pic.

The exhaust pipe that runs downward across the back of the engine is listed and sold on the engine parts pages. Usually referred to as a 'Y' pipe even for inline engines which only have half the Y.

The Y pipe to gimbal housing seal is sold on the gimbal housing page for the appropriate outdrive model. A 1987 is most likely a regular ol' Alpha1 outdrive, which just happens to be the page I linked to you..

Rick

 

[Bt Doctur]

the best and easiest way it to remove the engine. In all the years I have been working on these engines, the exaust is almost impossable to get to with the engine in place.on these things. Avg time to prep and remove is about 1 -1/2 if your good with tools . Set the engine stand/tree/ a-frame up and pull the engine up and out, pull the trailer ahead and lower the motor to a safe level.locate and repair the leak, raise motor up , pull trailer back under and reinstall it.
check engine alignment and install the drive.

 

[Lukelona]

Thanks to everyone for your input and tips, diagrams and great advice! Don't know what I'd do without y'all! UPDATE- I have some good news, and bad news... Good news is I'm almost positive I found my problem, and I don't think I'll have to pull motor! Deepblue2010 was on the right track...I pulled outdrive and found water inlet o ring was out of place slightly, but found the "big" o ring sitting in the gumball bellow torn in half! Meaning there's no seal around the "neck" of outdrive. I'm thinking this is why it leaked in the water but not sure if this would make the hot water in bilge when running on muffs? What do y'all think?

 

[Bt Doctur]

you should have found water in the bellows then, did you?
Plus that would be a cold water leak not a warm water leak.

 

[Lukelona]

you should have found water in the bellows then, did you?
Plus that would be a cold water leak not a warm water leak.

Yea it looked like some water got in gimbal bellow.
I'm thinking there's two issues, that's why it was worse when launching the boat.
I think these two seals leaked when boat was in the water, and another issue is causing the hot water
I'm thinking the seal on exhaust to gimbal has to be leaking. It's the only thing I can think of...

I'm gonna replace the outdrive seals that are bad and re-test for leaks. if hot water leak is still there , I'll have to ttrack it down also....smh

What do y'all think?
I'm gonna post pics of what I found today

 

[Lukelona]

 

[Lukelona]

 

[Lukelona]

What do y'all think of the pics? I'm kinda "in a rush" so to speak because I want to go get parts in the am and work on it. But I'd like to hear what y'all think also. Thanks so much

 

[Rick Stephens]

That would do it.

Get out your wire bruch and clean it all up. USe a little grease to hold the little o-ring in place. Use bellows cement to glue in the big oring so it is kept in place while the drive is inserted.

Rick

 

[Fun Times]

What do y'all think of the pics? I'm kinda "in a rush" so to speak because I want to go get parts in the am and work on it. But I'd like to hear what y'all think also. Thanks so much

Since there was water in the U-joint bellows you're going to want to consider replacing the gimbal bearing and possibly the U-joints as a precaution as any time water get's in that area it typically starts to create issues sooner than later. Are the U-joints on your drive model greasable with zerk fittings? Some are some aren't. The gimbal bearing needs grease as well at the very least.

Also if you are going to need to remove the engine then you may want to hold off with reinstalling the drive and related Gasket & O-rings as you'll need to have the drive removed to properly remove the engine from the boat....Plus you'll need an engine alignment bar to grease the engine coupler and inspect/readjust engine alignment before installing the stern drive every time you R & R the drive to again do things properly.

You can find aftermarket alignment bar/tools for as low as $30.00 on up depending on what other assorted tools you may want to consider buying to work on other related service items in that general area. A new OEM bar is in the $130.00 range.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=mercruiser+alignment+bar

If you are in need of doing some more engine testing then you don't have to install the drive to run the engine on the garden hose...Just get yourself a piece of plastic pipe that will screw on the garden hose and shove a barbed end into the water intake hole where you found the damaged smaller O-ring. Just don't put/turn the water pressure all the way up.

Good luck.

 

[DeepBlue2010]

It looks like all seal/gaskets need to be replaced. have someone inserting a water hose inside this water inlet port while you are inside watching for leaks.

 

[Lukelona]

Fun times, yes the u-joints are grease fitting type, they are dry from moisture though. Also looks like they're new, so I'll grease them.
I may replace gimbal bearing just cuz I'm already right at it, but like you said at the very least I'll clean everything dry it out and re-grease it.

Deepblue2010, if I run it like you said without drive on it it should show a leak at exhaust correct?
So if it doesn't leak, go ahead and replace all new gaskets on outdrive and re-install?

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Sounds like a plan

 

[Lukelona]

Anyone know if I could take
that lower exhaust elbow off without pulling engine? Would make it much easier lol