Blue Fin Sportsman 1900

[Thasme]

Yeah transom work seems daunting, having to pull the motor and all but it's really not bad with an OB. You didn't post up the year of your boat but I would recommend doing the extra work and replacing the transom and here's why.

If it's original then I know plywood and original boat builders apparent aversion to properly sealing the ply in the transoms. If pulled, you'll find also there's galvanic corrosion getting a foothold on the transom skin looking like white powder. If the ply isn't properly sealed it can be dry right now but from the years of use *wet and drying) the ply starts to de-laminate.

Peace of mind is knowing that boat is solid from one to the other and doesn't just "seem solid."

It is a 1989. Ugh I know I know. you have convinced me to investigate further into the transom. I have had to replace some screws that held the Splashwell and the screws snugged up nicely I do not notice any flex in the transom. The boat has always been strictly freshwater and always trailered. The floor that was actually in fair condition and the rest of the wood was damaged from being left in the rain and sun, uncovered. it spent the last 10 years of its life parked in the back of a Quonset after having some of the carpet redone and consoles recovered.
Yes I am just trying to convince myself I do no need to get into the transom

 

[Thasme]

Another question, I have been looking at moving the console forward and would need to extend the current rack and pinion steering system. Does a Teleflex system work as good or better or even at all in place of the rack and pinion???

 

[Watermann]

You could just get a longer steering cable and use the same helm you have. Personally I like the rotary helms better, I have both so I can give an opinion on either of them. The RnP takes up a bunch more room under the dash and isn't as smooth to me as the rotary. A new teleflex system would be better than the 25 year old original by far.

 

[Thasme]

I got the floor boards cut and test fitted.







The PO had put a 1/2 board on the bow of the boat..after removing all of that the aluminum bow sheet was trashed so I cut a 3/4 board for the Bow and have it strapped beyond what its curve needs to be going to let it sit over night and see if it will hold some shape.

 

[Thasme]

As a question to all of you that have done these before....Do you re rivet the floor boards or use another form of attaching them to the ribs and stringer?

 

[jbcurt00]

Some use rivets some use screws, the only thing thats hasnt gotten good reviews is riv-nuts....

 

[jigngrub]

Aluminum rivets or stainless steel screws work the best. With rivets you only get one use, but screws can be removed and used to fasten the deck back down again.... but rivets are cheaper than screws.

What do you plan to finish the decking with? Carpet, vinyl, or a paint on product?

 

[Watermann]

Looking good, I used large flange blind rivets on my Chief build The issue I have running screws into the ribs is that your screw has 2 or 3 threads holding on and that's it. Here's where I get rivets... http://www.rivetsonline.com/aluminum-aluminum-mandrel-w-large-flange-head.html

 

[Thasme]

Aluminum rivets or stainless steel screws work the best. With rivets you only get one use, but screws can be removed and used to fasten the deck back down again.... but rivets are cheaper than screws.

What do you plan to finish the decking with? Carpet, vinyl, or a paint on product?

I already have the carpet bought for it. I would like to use screws but have been concerned about them stripping out.

 

[Thasme]

Looking good, I used large flange blind rivets on my Chief build The issue I have running screws into the ribs is that your screw has 2 or 3 threads holding on and that's it. Here's where I get rivets... http://www.rivetsonline.com/aluminum-aluminum-mandrel-w-large-flange-head.html

Thanks Waterman!

 

[Thasme]

I have been busting my butt the last week on the boat. I have the front deck rebuilt and consoles pretty well started. Need to get the floor boards epoxied and fastened to the ribs. I will get some pics uploaded tonight.

 

[Thasme]

Ok so here is some pics from old front deck to new, and new console, added 5 inches to bring the wheel above my nether region. Doing so I had to add 5 inches on the gunnels for the windshield to mount on. I really like the way it feels now. Now that it has all been dry fit I will go back to fully installing the main deck, floor foam, front deck, carpet etc.. After that is done I will do the final mount of the consoles. I also plan on adding some built in rear seating and another live well. I have been looking at hatch lids and ski hatch doors. I really like the tempress 13x23 ( http://tempress.com/#!/1323-Slam-Hatch-Dark-Gray/p/1527383/category=610306 ) as they have a drop in liner that can be used for live well. Any body have better suggestions? After that the electrical will commence I have bought a new fuse panel ( https://www.bluesea.com/products/503...h_Negative_Bus) and will also be adding lights, 12v accessory outlets, radio, speakers, and probably an amp and sub

 

[Thasme]

Old deck
Old Console

Old Deck

Old Deck

New Deck

New Deck

New Console


more to come the photos aren't working quite right on photobucket

 

[Mikeopsycho]

Looking good. You're really getting somewhere now!

 

[Thasme]

The front deck hatch covers came in, the kids helped me get the holes cut and of course they had to test the strength of them. I am also including some pics of the supporting straps I put in from rib side to rib side in the front.

 

[kcassells]

KC: Got a tin boat? I wouldn't use rigid insulation in a fiberglass boat.

It's the blue/green/pink 4ft X 8ft slabs at HD or Lowes. It's available in many thicknesses from 1/2" to 2.5", possibly 3" thick.

JB,
Thanks for the response. Been awhile since I was on this thread. Sheet foam has alot of applications of which I will take advantage of. In addition to using poured foam. I only called it rigid because it is as a sheet product. Definitely has a place in any type boat construction...depending on it's us/application.
Besides...the Peanuts/foam are too messy. From a Bottom Feeder!
KC

 

[Mikeopsycho]

Good looking crew you got there! It's great you got the kids "helping" out a bit, nothing bonds a family like working on a project together, and they'll be proud of their efforts when the boat is launched again. :thumb:Oh, and nice hatch covers too!

 

[Thasme]

More pics coming.... I ended up using an expanding foam. Just need to get the front 2 main deck boards fastened (I ordered too few rivets the first time, should have just ordered 125 of them from the get go...not 50). I also got the carpet installed in the ski locker. I am also thinking about using the Sonar Phone from Vexilar in the boat. It sure isn't my dream of Lowrance HDS 7 touch, but it will also save me from the Admiral constantly asking what depth we are in etc... Any of you scanning this thread have any suggestion for carpet adhesive? O ya I got my new gauges in too! So yes I have a very busy week planned. Finish main deck, dry fit front deck (again), Dry fit consoles (again) remove aforementioned, fill in counter sunk rivet holes, fill in gaps between main deck and hull, Epoxy main deck, carpet main deck, epoxy front deck, install livewell in front deck, carpet front deck, epoxy bow, carpet bow, gunnels, and consoles, design far aft seating and livewell, carpet aft seating and livewell, Install electrical wires switches, lights, gauges, and plumbing, Install windshield, change spark plugs, go fishing! hahaha I just woke up from my dream! I'll be happy to have consoles finish built and ready for epoxy!I

 

[jbcurt00]

use a solvent based adhesive for the carpet in a WELL ventilated area

 

[Thasme]

use a solvent based adhesive for the carpet in a WELL ventilated area

Any certain brand?