Blowing Fuses

[alldodge]

The thermal switch doesn't have anything to do with the gauge. This switch closes once the engine warms up. To test, use an ohm meter and check for continuity across the contacts. When cold there will be no continuity, but when warm the contacts will close. At no time should there be continuity between the pins and the threads on the switch

I would bet your fuse was blowing, because of the shorted diode

 

[TimTJR]

Thanks for clarifying AllDodge. I will check the thermal switch with an ohm meter. If it checks good, it sounds like I should be able to replace the diode and I should be good to go.

 

[TimTJR]

I just got done installing the impeller. Is there any sure way to tell whether or not I got the tube to go in the right place when pushing the lower unit back up in place? It wasn't that difficult to get it in place but I had to wiggle it bit.

What will happen if the tube isn't in place when I take it out on the lake next time?

 

[achris]

Whenever you do any repairs on a boat, ALWAYS run the engine up at home on the flushers and check it's doing everything it should be before you take it 'live'... That includes ensuring the water tube is right, and that it selects gears, and the prop goes round.

When you start the engine, water should start coming out of the exhaust reliefs either side at the bottom of the gimbal housing.

Once fixed an engine on a boat ramp (he was holding everybody up), by swapping the 2 spark plug leads. He'd just got it back from a shop, they replaced the ignition module. Obviously didn't even start the damn motor before handing it back to the customer. :facepalm:

Don't be THAT guy.

Chris.........

 

[TimTJR]

Yeah I didn't word that very well. I would have definitely put it on the muffs and started it and tested everything first.

So as long as water is coming out of where it is supposed to, that means the tube is in place?

I will also check forward gear, reverse gear, and power trim once I start it.

 

[achris]

....So as long as water is coming out of where it is supposed to, that means the tube is in place?...

If there's water coming out of the reliefs, then there must be water going into the engine. The only way it can get there, is if the water tube (and everything else) is in the correct place...

Chris........

 

[TimTJR]

So I changed the impeller and everything works good and water comes out by the bellows as it should.
when I changed the diode the engine would turn but wouldn't start up. So I put the old diode back on and it started right up but ignition would not turn the engine off. So I pulled the old diode back off and it killed the engine. So I put the new diode back in and it still won't fire up. I tested both diodes. The old one has continuity and the new one does not.

Any suggestions?

 

[alldodge]

Place the new diode in and then turn key ON. With key ON measure the voltage on the + side of the coil

 

[TimTJR]

All I need to do to test the coil is touch the black probe to a ground and touch the red probe to the + on the coil, with the key in the ON position, and new diode installed, right?

 

[alldodge]

All I need to do to test the coil is touch the black probe to a ground and touch the red probe to the + on the coil, with the key in the ON position, and new diode installed, right?

Yes, but I'm trying to find out if you have 12V going to the coil, which I don't think you do. If its not there, then we need to trace back to find out where the connection was lost.

 

[TimTJR]

I just checked it with the key in the ON position and reading zero volts.

 

[alldodge]

OK, so your not getting power to the coil. The 12V comes from the key thru the kill switch then thru pin 5 of the cannon plug. Then goes to a harness splice which is then distributed to coil, ALT, oil pressure switch and ICM

With the shorted diode in place the motor is power thru the Red/Purple wire which does not come from the key switch.

So the issue is there is a break in the purple wire between the key and coil. This can be the neutral safety switch, cannon engine plug, or splice internal to the harness

 

[TimTJR]

How do I test nuetral safety switch and cannon engine plug?

 

[alldodge]

It's not the neutral safety, if it was the motor would not crank over. Don't know if you have a kill switch or not, but most do. It will be a switch by, if not part of the throttle shifter. It will show a position of RUN. The kill switch is designed to have a lanyard attached, so if the driver falls over board the motor is killed.

Turn the key on, see if your fuel gauge reads more then empty (that is IF your tank has more fuel then empty). If tank reads, then disconnect the engine plug and check continuity between pin 7 and the purple wire on the key. Take a voltmeter with the key on and engine connector to see if 12V is at the alternator purple wire

 

[TimTJR]

Yes mine does have the kill switch you described.
Fuel gauge reads more than empty.

I'm not completely comprehending the part where I need to disconnect the main engine plug and check pin 7. My pins are labeled in letters. I am able to locate the purple wire in the plug. It appears to be pin C. How do I check the pin continuity to the purple wire on the key?

I'm also not following where you said " take voltmeter with key on and engine connector to see if 12v is at the alternator purple wire".

I apologise and I really appreciate your guidance .

 

[alldodge]

It appears to be pin C

Place on probe on pin C and the other on the purple wire at the ignition key

see if 12v is at the alternator purple wire".

The ALT has 3 wires on it, orange, red/purple and purple

Orange goes to starter post fuse
Red/Purple goes to 50 amp breaker
Purple goes to pin 7 (pin C) but should have 12V when key is turned to ON

 

[TimTJR]

Thanks for clarifying. I will check tomorrow when I get off work .

 

[TimTJR]

There is no continuity between the ignition purple wire and pin c in the plug. There are 3 purple wires going to one screw. I put an alligator clip with a wire on the screw head and put a probe on the end of the wire, and put the other probe on pin c. Nothing!

In order to test the alternator, do I need to remove the plug that the purple wire goes to? How do I test it for 12 v? Do I stick the red probe in it? Don't I need to ground the black probe to get a reading?

 

[alldodge]

Place the meter positive probe on the red/purple wire on the key switch, and place the negative probe on ground.

Is there 12V?

If there is 12V

Place key ON and see if 12V is on the purple wire

 

[TimTJR]

There is no red/purple wire at the key switch. Only red and only purple are on the key switch.