Bet up by a 1998 120hp force

[Captcharlese]

120 hp force missing on 1 and 3.
Very clean plugs. I pulled the #1 and #3 wires off while running, and no change.
They have sparked just from boot to plug. Swapped #1 and #2 coil. To see if the coils was doing its job.
I sprayed starting fluid around the block while idling.
It tries to die when I sprayed under or behind the starter.
I'm going to see if I can add pics of plugs in order from left to right.
What's the likeness of sucking air from the crack block or gasket versus the intake gasket?
I could not find anywhere lower that effected the motor.
Sometimes when running faster, it might hit on #1 or #3 bc it takes off for a brief moment.
How do I confirm what I think I already know?
Take it easy on me. I'm already filling pretty bet up about it. I just sunk a lot of extra $ and time into this motor. Unfortunately I wasn't the one who took pics.Im not sure where #4 is and I'm sure the other pic is from right to left.

 

[jerryjerry05]

If it dies with starting fluid, your sucking air, probably around carb base

 

[Captcharlese]

I can't seem to isolate my spray bc starter in the way. Looking for an tip to pin point leak.
Do Plugs look water washed ?

 

[Jiggz]

Do the compression test first. From there we can focus on where to start troubleshooting. And do post the results in here.

 

[Captcharlese]

#1 110
#2 - 115
#3-105
#4- 110
It's has 2 carb.

 

[Jiggz]

Those readings seems low but acceptable because each compression gauge is different. Have had the chance to take a look at the reeds? If you have a borescope or one of those cheap endoscope that connects to a cell phone you can check the reeds without dismounting the carbs. Engine off, place throttle control at WOT to open up the carbs and then insert the scope to see if there is any broken reed. With no scope, you can try with a very bright flashlight to look into the reeds also.

 

[Captcharlese]

I've ordered gaskets for carburetors and intake.
I have an extra identical motor.
How important is keeping reeds in the same place when I put them back?
If I use used reeds off another motor, will that be ok?
While I was out in the boat yesterday, I could fill the spark plugs hitting through my shifter. Does this mean I created a hole in the boot of the spark plug wire by pulling them off.?

 

[Jiggz]

Reeds don't have to be in the same motor. What matters is the they are closing properly and none is actually opened or worse yet broke. Although, there is a leniency on the gap allowing a little sunlight through them, perfect working reeds allows no sunlight when looked at against sunlight. A hairline gap is acceptable. And yes, as long as the motors are of the same or the reeds are applicable to the same style and model and year of motor, such reeds are acceptable.

 

[Captcharlese]

Thanks, Jiggs.
One reed gone, and two others cracked up. One set of reeds has no light through it. The other seems to have the same amount of space ( gap)
With light coming through. Does loose reeds cause them to break?
Wonder if you can bend them back.
What is the gap tolerance? E

 

[Redbarron%%]

Replace the reeds, don't bend etc.
There are aftermarket reeds available.
The plugs that are so clean that they look new are out of cylinders that are not firing.

 

[Jiggz]

If you have gone this far to dismount the reed block, you will be better off replacing the gapped reeds. It is not advisable to bend back or even turn them over as this worsens their longevity. Reeds flaps a thousand times a minute and a weakened reed will break in a very short period of time.

 

[Captcharlese]

Thanks.
What I can tell by reading other threads. I'm not to use any sealant on the reed plate or carb.
Reeds flaps a thousand times a min. WOW!
That seems destructive. How would anything hold up??
Anyways, are they carbon? Where did the missing ones go?

 

[Redbarron%%]

The missing ones probably went through the engine if not still in the airflow path somewhere,
Actually a thousand times a minute is a little low. They flex at every revolution of the engine. So at 5000 RPM....

 

[Jiggz]

With the reed blocks dismounted, using a bright flashlight inspect the crankshaft cavity for any debris that may still be lingering around. And yes, the original reeds were made of high carbon metal. The new ones or after market ones are usually made of porcelain/metal alloy.

 

[Nordin]

My experience is that the old stainless steel (actually swedish SS for instance from the company Sandvik who I am working for) reeds last a lot longer then the "plastic" reeds which was on the later Force engines.
I have had some broken SS reeds over the 25 years I have worked on Chrysler/Force engines. But the newer "plastics" reeds has been more then double then the SS.
I am not familiar with late Force as the 120Hp 1998, but I think SS reeds from Chryslers and early Force will fit.
I suggest you to look for good used SS reeds and replace with them.

 

[Captcharlese]

I know it took awhile for my reed replacement.
You guys were right again.
It starts and idles like a real boat.
Thank you
Not sure if I need to start a new thread or not.
But now, after the new reed rebuild
If I throttle up to fast, it Boggs and will die. I've pushed chock right when it Boggs, but it gets worse.
I'm changing the fuel pump next.
I just heard it could be that pump deteriorating.

 

[Jiggz]

This could be fuel related . . . i.e. the bogging down on fast throttle. But it could just be an adjustment of the idle air mixture screw. First and foremost if you haven't done it yet, install a clear fuel filter between the fuel pump and the carbs intake. It is more for troubleshooting than actually filtering fuel. If the fuel pump is working properly, this clear filter will at least stay 3/4 full even at WOT. Next is to check the setting of the idle air mixture screw on each carb. It should be around 1 1/4 ~ 1 1/2 turn out from lightly seated. And if all of the above is set and still bogs down, check the timing just to make sure. Static timing is all you need.

 

[The Force power]

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