Bellows Installation

[Jmunk]

I’m replacing bellows and trim senders on an Alpha 1 Gen 2. I have all OEM parts and got it torn apart this morning. I want to verify my installation order and a few other things before I start installation. I have a factory manual but it doesn’t specify the installation order.

1. Here is what I think the installation order is for the bellows: Water inlet hose, u-joint bellow, oil hose, shift cable bellow, exhaust bellow. I’m going to attach all to transom and then attach to bell housing.

2. Are the OEM water inlet hose and gear oil hose the correct length already?

3. I’m going to replace the shift shaft bushings and seals while I’m in there. What direction should the two seals face? Spring ends facing up?

4. Is it recommended to install the shift cable into the bell housing when it’s on the bench or screw it into the bell housing after I have the bell housing on and hinge pins in? (I used string trimmer line to leave me a guide.)

5. The manual says no more than two threads showing on shift cable at bell housing. When the shift cable get tight in the bell housing is it an issue sometimes with more then two threads showing? Im just curious about this.

6. Is it recommended to put the hinge pins in before attaching the u-joint bellow and retainer ring into the bell housing?

7. Do I need to use anything to secure the oil line to the fittings or it the hose tight enough?

8. Does the grounding clips on the bellows need to be in a specific location?

Thanks, I feel lucky so far that the plastic gear line fitting hasn’t broke. I have one just sitting on the bench if it does but hopefully Power Tune will slide the oil hose on without breaking the nipple.

 

[Bt Doctur]

1 good luck with that
2 get the pre-molded hose and 14 inches of oil resistant hose
3 down on the spring side
4 either will work, but bench is easier
5 reverse may not be obtainable
6 Yes
7 No ,hose friction will keep in in place Use clamp needle nose pliers to install it
8 on the bottoms away from the screw clamp

should you happen to break it you will need to:
remove the exaust manifold, the steering unit provided you can remove the lock tab, the steering unit cotter pin and bolt and wiggle the unit out of the way. To keep the E clip from flying away knot a thin string on the new one cause I`m sure its going to go missing.. This way if you slip pressing it back into place its held captive.

 

[Jmunk]

1 good luck with that
2 get the pre-molded hose and 14 inches of oil resistant hose
3 down on the spring side
4 either will work, but bench is easier
5 reverse may not be obtainable
6 Yes
7 No ,hose friction will keep in in place Use clamp needle nose pliers to install it
8 on the bottoms away from the screw clamp

should you happen to break it you will need to:
remove the exaust manifold, the steering unit provided you can remove the lock tab, the steering unit cotter pin and bolt and wiggle the unit out of the way. To keep the E clip from flying away knot a thin string on the new one cause I`m sure its going to go missing.. This way if you slip pressing it back into place its held captive.

Do you recommend a better order for install in reference to #1?

 

[Bondo]

I have a factory manual but it doesn’t specify the installation order.

Ayuh,.... follow the manual, as explained in there, the sequence falls into place,....

 

[Jmunk]

I ended up breaking the gear lube fitting. I think I may have a new world record for changing out the fitting. I have a 4.3L with decent engine access once the side panels are removed.

I got the old fitting in about 10 minutes. I used a 20” or so long flat head screw driver to reach in and release the quick lock fitting. I used that same screw driver to gently remove the e clip and then a thin magnetic telescoping pen magnet to grab the clip.

I put the new hose from the OEM kit onto the fitting and inserted it with some oil on the orings into the transom assembly. I used the telescoping pen magnet to hold onto the e clip favoring the port side of the clip. Once I held the clip where it needed to go and pressed up against the transom side it straightened the clip out flat against the transom. Then I reached in with the long screw driver and pushed it down. The whole install took about 15min. I did tie some thing fishing line to the clip incase the magnet dropped it.

Years ago I learned that people seem to always want to get their hands close to fasteners. When you don’t have the room, you need to work from where you have room. Working from a distance it was pretty easy. I’d course some boats have better engine access than others.

I think I read where someone suggested using a wooden dowel rod with a slit cut in the end to hold the clip and to be able to reach in and install.

 

[Jmunk]

Also, I measured the oil line provided in the OEM kit and it was 9.5”. The manual states 10” and others are recommending longer. If it needs to be longer, then it’s odd that the OEM kit shorts you.

It appears my speedometer hose was tucked in behind the water inlet hose. Just wanted to see if this is how it goes or if it was an oversight during initial install, manual doesn’t say.

 

[Chaparral210SSi]

3. I’m going to replace the shift shaft bushings and seals while I’m in there. What direction should the two seals face? Spring ends facing up?

3 down on the spring side

I don't have much to offer for help besides this, I just did this yesterday (replaced the bell housing bushings & seals) and spent a fair bit of time trying to find out which orientation the seals are to be installed. According to the diagram posted by Don, post #11 in this thread - the seals are to be installed spring side up (which apparently goes against conventional wisdom). Hope this helps!

 

[Bt Doctur]

a slightly longer oil hose will help prevent breakage of the nipple

 

[Jmunk]

To help anyone in the future, the hose that came with the Mercrusier bellow kit is a Parker 1/4” Jiffy Hose Push On # 7212-251BK. My work has a Parker store a few businesses down, I went today and they didn’t have anymore of the above hose in-stock but gave me a few feet of Parker 801 1/4” Push Lock Plus hose. They said it’s pretty much the same hose. Looking at the online specs it’s rated for oil. They wouldn’t take any money for the hose given it was such a small amount. I’ll have to use them for my hose needs in the future.

 

[Scott06]

To help anyone in the future, the hose that came with the Mercrusier bellow kit is a Parker 1/4” Jiffy Hose Push On # 7212-251BK. My work has a Parker store a few businesses down, I went today and they didn’t have anymore of the above hose in-stock but gave me a few feet of Parker 801 1/4” Push Lock Plus hose. They said it’s pretty much the same hose. Looking at the online specs it’s rated for oil. They wouldn’t take any money for the hose given it was such a small amount. I’ll have to use them for my hose needs in the future.

Yeah the newer style push on hoses are pretty cool, no clamps required . I use them a lot at work ( in larger sizes) to make air and water hoses on site with no end crimping tools.

 

[Jmunk]

I got my bellows installed and it’s about done, need to hookup and adjust shift cable still.

Here is what I can offer for my installation order:

1. Installed new trim senders.
2. Push on new gear oil hose to the transom fitting. I used a small zip tie but it’s not likely needed. I did use some Power Tune on the hose to help it slide on easy.
3. Water inlet hose onto transom, I used Power Tune on the hose and it slipped right on.
4. I installed she shaft cable into the bell housing while it was on the bench. Make sure to use sealant on the threads and ensure it no more then two threads showing.
5. With the bell housing still on the bench I put the shift cable bellow onto the shift cable, about a foot. Once again Power Tune on the bellow helped it slide right onto the cable.
6. I glued the shift cable bellow onto transom.
7. Exhaust bellow glued onto transom.
8. U-joint bellow glued to transom.
9. Pushed shift cable into transom, had weed eater trimmer line to guide it. Had my wife help and it was done in a few minutes. Really need two people for this and a line as a guide.
10. Used a bungee cord to hold belhousing and installed the water inlet hose to bell housing.
11. Installed bell housing and hinge pins.
12. U-joint bellow retainer installed, used Power Tune and the driver tool for the retainer. The retainer slide into place with just the pressure from my hands in the retainer tool.
13. Used a cheap set of exhaust bellow expanders from and installed exhaust bellow, I didn’t use adhesive. This was pretty easy and only took a few minutes.
14. Reinstalled shift shaft, don’t forget the synthane washer.
15. Pushed gear oil hose onto bell housing fitting.
16. Installed trim senders.
17. Install outdrive and fill with oil.

I ended up changing out shift shaft bushings and seals, bellows, gimbal bearing, transom gear oil fitting, shift cable, and trim senders. While I had good access to engine area I also changed out the bilge pump hose.

Overall not a hard job in terms of technical, just a lot crammed into a small area. I used all Mercruiser parts and everything seemed to fit well. The gear oil hose length at 9.5” doesn't seem to be an issue. Another hour tomorrow and I should have everything buttoned back up.

 

[MarthaCRhodes]

I’m replacing bellows and trim senders on an Alpha 1 Gen 2. I have all OEM parts and got it torn apart this morning. I want to verify my installation order and a few other things before I start installation. I have a factory manual but it doesn’t specify the installation order.

1. Here is what I think the installation order is for the bellows: Water inlet hose, u-joint bellow, oil hose, shift cable bellow, exhaust bellow. I’m going to attach all to transom and then attach to bell housing.

2. Are the OEM water inlet hose and gear oil hose the correct length already?

3. I’m going to replace the shift shaft bushings and seals while I’m in there. What direction should the two seals face? Spring ends facing up?

4. Is it recommended to install the shift cable into the bell housing when it’s on the bench or screw it into the bell housing after I have the bell housing on and hinge pins in? (I used string trimmer line to leave me a guide.)

5. The manual says no more than two threads showing on shift cable at bell housing. When the shift cable get tight in the bell housing is it an issue sometimes with more then two threads showing? Im just curious about this.

6. Is it recommended to put the hinge pins in before attaching the u-joint bellow and retainer ring into the bell housing?

7. Do I need to use anything to secure the oil line to the fittings or it the hose tight enough?

8. Does the grounding clips on the bellows need to be in a specific location?

Thanks, I feel lucky so far that the plastic gear line fitting hasn’t broke. I have one just sitting on the bench if it does but hopefully Power Tune will slide the oil hose on without breaking the nipple.


our order for the bellows is solid, and OEM hoses should fit well. Make sure the shift shaft seals have the spring ends facing up. It's generally easier to install the shift cable after the bell housing is in place. Good luck, and hope everything goes smoothly! I’m studying Psychology, and I had a difficult paper to write on a complex topic. I decided to try https://domypaper.com and I was really impressed with the result. The paper was insightful and well-researched, and it was delivered on time. I couldn’t have asked for better service, and I’ll definitely be using them again.

Can I ask something regarding this or should I start my own thread? I am sorry for jumping on this post.

 

[Bondo]

Can I ask something regarding this or should I start my own thread? I am sorry for jumping on this post.

Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,....... Yes, start yer own thread please,....

 

[Jmunk]

Took the boat out and everything went well. Shifted good with no issue, this was my first time adjusting the shift cable but the process is pretty easy. I’m surprised no one with a 3D printer hasn’t made a fixture/holder that allows you to adjust the lower to 6” with just using two fixed point. One would be a stud for the end and the other would be sized for the barrel adjuster.