Bellows Installation

[Jmunk]

I’m replacing bellows and trim senders on an Alpha 1 Gen 2. I have all OEM parts and got it torn apart this morning. I want to verify my installation order and a few other things before I start installation. I have a factory manual but it doesn’t specify the installation order.

1. Here is what I think the installation order is for the bellows: Water inlet hose, u-joint bellow, oil hose, shift cable bellow, exhaust bellow. I’m going to attach all to transom and then attach to bell housing.

2. Are the OEM water inlet hose and gear oil hose the correct length already?

3. I’m going to replace the shift shaft bushings and seals while I’m in there. What direction should the two seals face? Spring ends facing up?

4. Is it recommended to install the shift cable into the bell housing when it’s on the bench or screw it into the bell housing after I have the bell housing on and hinge pins in? (I used string trimmer line to leave me a guide.)

5. The manual says no more than two threads showing on shift cable at bell housing. When the shift cable get tight in the bell housing is it an issue sometimes with more then two threads showing? Im just curious about this.

6. Is it recommended to put the hinge pins in before attaching the u-joint bellow and retainer ring into the bell housing?

7. Do I need to use anything to secure the oil line to the fittings or it the hose tight enough?

8. Does the grounding clips on the bellows need to be in a specific location?

Thanks, I feel lucky so far that the plastic gear line fitting hasn’t broke. I have one just sitting on the bench if it does but hopefully Power Tune will slide the oil hose on without breaking the nipple.

 

[Bt Doctur]

1 good luck with that
2 get the pre-molded hose and 14 inches of oil resistant hose
3 down on the spring side
4 either will work, but bench is easier
5 reverse may not be obtainable
6 Yes
7 No ,hose friction will keep in in place Use clamp needle nose pliers to install it
8 on the bottoms away from the screw clamp

should you happen to break it you will need to:
remove the exaust manifold, the steering unit provided you can remove the lock tab, the steering unit cotter pin and bolt and wiggle the unit out of the way. To keep the E clip from flying away knot a thin string on the new one cause I`m sure its going to go missing.. This way if you slip pressing it back into place its held captive.

 

[Jmunk]

1 good luck with that
2 get the pre-molded hose and 14 inches of oil resistant hose
3 down on the spring side
4 either will work, but bench is easier
5 reverse may not be obtainable
6 Yes
7 No ,hose friction will keep in in place Use clamp needle nose pliers to install it
8 on the bottoms away from the screw clamp

should you happen to break it you will need to:
remove the exaust manifold, the steering unit provided you can remove the lock tab, the steering unit cotter pin and bolt and wiggle the unit out of the way. To keep the E clip from flying away knot a thin string on the new one cause I`m sure its going to go missing.. This way if you slip pressing it back into place its held captive.

Do you recommend a better order for install in reference to #1?

 

[Bondo]

I have a factory manual but it doesn’t specify the installation order.

Ayuh,.... follow the manual, as explained in there, the sequence falls into place,....

 

[Jmunk]

I ended up breaking the gear lube fitting. I think I may have a new world record for changing out the fitting. I have a 4.3L with decent engine access once the side panels are removed.

I got the old fitting in about 10 minutes. I used a 20” or so long flat head screw driver to reach in and release the quick lock fitting. I used that same screw driver to gently remove the e clip and then a thin magnetic telescoping pen magnet to grab the clip.

I put the new hose from the OEM kit onto the fitting and inserted it with some oil on the orings into the transom assembly. I used the telescoping pen magnet to hold onto the e clip favoring the port side of the clip. Once I held the clip where it needed to go and pressed up against the transom side it straightened the clip out flat against the transom. Then I reached in with the long screw driver and pushed it down. The whole install took about 15min. I did tie some thing fishing line to the clip incase the magnet dropped it.

Years ago I learned that people seem to always want to get their hands close to fasteners. When you don’t have the room, you need to work from where you have room. Working from a distance it was pretty easy. I’d course some boats have better engine access than others.

I think I read where someone suggested using a wooden dowel rod with a slit cut in the end to hold the clip and to be able to reach in and install.

 

[Jmunk]

Also, I measured the oil line provided in the OEM kit and it was 9.5”. The manual states 10” and others are recommending longer. If it needs to be longer, then it’s odd that the OEM kit shorts you.

It appears my speedometer hose was tucked in behind the water inlet hose. Just wanted to see if this is how it goes or if it was an oversight during initial install, manual doesn’t say.

 

[Chaparral210SSi]

3. I’m going to replace the shift shaft bushings and seals while I’m in there. What direction should the two seals face? Spring ends facing up?

3 down on the spring side

I don't have much to offer for help besides this, I just did this yesterday (replaced the bell housing bushings & seals) and spent a fair bit of time trying to find out which orientation the seals are to be installed. According to the diagram posted by Don, post #11 in this thread - the seals are to be installed spring side up (which apparently goes against conventional wisdom). Hope this helps!

 

[Bt Doctur]

a slightly longer oil hose will help prevent breakage of the nipple