Beating out the cup

takoateli

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 9, 2009
Messages
31
Dear group, thank you for your time and thanks in advance for your suggestions.

I took a 9 hp diesel engine and turned it into an outboard by adding a long shaft and a propeller. When it came time for selecting a prop I wasn't exactly sure what I needed. I used a couple of online propeller calculators and came up with 8X4. I ended up buying a prop from Hopkins propeller. The gentleman I spoke with was very courteous and helpful and he suggested a propeller which is just under 8 inches in diameter but with 6 inches of pitch. He also asked me if I wanted cup, and I got the feeling he thought that was a good idea. Now I've tried the prop in my motor is clearly over propped. The motor doesn't get up to speed, and the prop wants to cavitate at full throttle.

I'm in the jungle of Venezuela, and sending the prop back for modification is out of the question. The best I can do is whatever modifications I can do myself with a hammer and anvil and perhaps a torch.

I understand that the cupping increases pitch, and I think what I could safely do is beat the cup out of the prop and make the blade trailing edges flat again. It's a steel two blade weedless prop, their MB1.

Some curious to ask you guys what do you think about the idea of beating out the cup? I've reworked a number of aluminum props that have had unfortunate meetings with underwater objects. I think if the steel is malleable I can do a good job.

Thanks
Greg
 

steelespike

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 26, 2002
Messages
19,069
Re: Beating out the cup

Under the circumstances its worth a try.
Is this a Mud motor sort of mounted like an oar out the back of the boat intended to run in very shallow fouled water/mud?
What your getting at full throttle is ventilation.Cavitation is different and not something you know is happening until you exanine the prop. Removing cup could agravate the venting.You might try lessening the cup.
What is your setup?Maybe some pictures.You'll have to use a host site.
 

Ned L

Commander
Joined
Sep 17, 2008
Messages
2,268
Re: Beating out the cup

I would agree with what Steelspike said. I too am curious about your setup and if it is like a longtail or mudmotor. If so, the air may be follwing down the angled shaft and removing the cup won't help. What is the engine rated for (RPM) and what is it doing when wide open?
 

takoateli

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 9, 2009
Messages
31
Re: Beating out the cup

Under the circumstances its worth a try.
Is this a Mud motor sort of mounted like an oar out the back of the boat intended to run in very shallow fouled water/mud?
What your getting at full throttle is ventilation.Cavitation is different and not something you know is happening until you exanine the prop. Removing cup could agravate the venting.You might try lessening the cup.
What is your setup?Maybe some pictures.You'll have to use a host site.

Thanks so much everyone who replied!

Yes this is a homemade mud motor, made for running in clear clean water with a lot of submerged obstacles. Another reason why I went the mud motor type is because the engine is a diesel engine and I didn't have any other way to make it work.

Your advice seems to be what everyone universally has told me from various sources, and also what I've been able to find by googling. Everyone is saying to just grind the cup. I've already ground some off, and I'm going to try it before I do any more. There's still most of the cup left. I just took it down a little bit and smoothed the edges.

I have some pics at http://gregihnen.me/about-me/my-motor

Greg
 

steelespike

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 26, 2002
Messages
19,069
Re: Beating out the cup

Check out swamp motors on google.They have a antivent(cavitation) plate.
I thinlk its obvious your motor wan't have much speed.
 

takoateli

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 9, 2009
Messages
31
Re: Beating out the cup

Check out swamp motors on google.They have a antivent(cavitation) plate.
I thinlk its obvious your motor wan't have much speed.


I agree, I might add an anti-cavitation plate. But I can take my shaft and push it deep into the water so the cavitation plate is not an issue and the prop was still cavitating.

Greg
 

steelespike

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 26, 2002
Messages
19,069
Re: Beating out the cup

Not cavitation but Ventilation. What makes you think it is venting? Cavitation occurs when the pressure is reduced usually on the back side of the blade and the water actually boils from the reduced pressure. over time this may errode the surface of the prop where the cavitation occurs.You don't feel cavitation.
I wonder if something on the shaft is disturbing the water flowing to the prop?
Its possible that as you increase the angle of the prop it causes excessive slip. Slip is a measure of prop efficiency.ie:
A prop with 6" of pitch theoreticly moves 6" forward with each revolution but water is fluid so there is slip it is measured in %
A modern day outboard on a well matched planing boat would have a slip of 5-12% The slower the prop turns the higher the slip.
The steeper the angle of your drive the more likely to agrivate slip. I notice on the swamp motors the shaft is quite long
and they do run close to the surface even in clear water.
Is the prop a 2 blade? What rpm is the motor rated for?
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
51,870
Re: Beating out the cup

your loosing a bit of power thru the flex shaft. without constant lubrication, you will eventually loose a lot of power. I bet that thing winds up like a snake if the prop actually gets a bit of the water.

I would ditch the flex shaft myself, and mount the PTO output with a flex coupler to your prop shaft. the engine will handle a god deal of angle in all directions, however you will have to check the engine manual.

here is a website of similar swamp motors, however they are using a Kohler 23hp v-twin (actually about 21hp)
http://www.backwaterinc.com/media.html
 

takoateli

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 9, 2009
Messages
31
Re: Beating out the cup

Not cavitation but Ventilation. What makes you think it is venting? Cavitation occurs when the pressure is reduced usually on the back side of the blade and the water actually boils from the reduced pressure. over time this may errode the surface of the prop where the cavitation occurs.You don't feel cavitation.
I wonder if something on the shaft is disturbing the water flowing to the prop?
Its possible that as you increase the angle of the prop it causes excessive slip. Slip is a measure of prop efficiency.ie:
A prop with 6" of pitch theoreticly moves 6" forward with each revolution but water is fluid so there is slip it is measured in %
A modern day outboard on a well matched planing boat would have a slip of 5-12% The slower the prop turns the higher the slip.
The steeper the angle of your drive the more likely to agrivate slip. I notice on the swamp motors the shaft is quite long
and they do run close to the surface even in clear water.
Is the prop a 2 blade? What rpm is the motor rated for?


Thank you so much everyone who's commented.

Here's what makes me think that the prop is caveating and not venting. Because of the long tail motor I can change the angle of the motor and put the prop very deep in the water. On my last test run I started out with the boat empty except for the motor and I if I push the prop very deep in the water the motor would slow down a great deal, well away from its peak power output RPM, and the boat would lug along. If I raise the prop up some the boat would go better, I could see a trail being left underwater, which was obviously a gas either being caveated water or air which I don't believe it was. At the point where that would happen the motor speed would go up-and-down and I can actually feel the boat surging ahead and falling back in time with the motor speed. I could feel it was getting traction and slipping getting traction and slipping. I could continue bringing the prop up and eventually it would start to ventilate, but only when it was very close to the surface of the water.

I also was wondering about the shaft disturbing the water ahead of the prop, especially because the horizontal fins as they were originally shaped didn't have enough angle to cause the prop to dive to a deep enough depth. Those fans have to offset the lifting force that the water provides as it pushes on the shaft as the shaft plows to the water. So what I did to try and compensate was I twisted those side fans to increase their angle. But that gave them the strange shape which I assume could've been disturbing the water ahead of the prop. So the most recent thing that I've done to the motor is I detached those horizontal fins from the shaft, straighten them, and reattached them on a more aggressive angle which should be correct.

I noticed that on the long tail motors that they run in Brazil and in Thailand don't have cavitation plates, so that's what I thought I would be okay without one. But I think I'm going to add a cavitation plate this afternoon.

I'll let you guys know how it works out. I should be able to test the motor in a few days.

I am looking at the commercially made long tail motors, and would love to get one. The problem is trying to have it imported.

Greg
 

takoateli

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 9, 2009
Messages
31
Re: Beating out the cup

your loosing a bit of power thru the flex shaft. without constant lubrication, you will eventually loose a lot of power. I bet that thing winds up like a snake if the prop actually gets a bit of the water.

I would ditch the flex shaft myself, and mount the PTO output with a flex coupler to your prop shaft. the engine will handle a god deal of angle in all directions, however you will have to check the engine manual.

here is a website of similar swamp motors, however they are using a Kohler 23hp v-twin (actually about 21hp)
http://www.backwaterinc.com/media.html

Thanks! You're right about the flexible cable. I originally got into that based on the specs. It appeared that it would handle the torque. So I ordered one through McMaster Carr and just like you said it wanted to shape itself like a corkscrew, they call that helixing in the industry I found out. I hadn't purchased the toughest one available, so I thought going up to the strongest size that was available would be enough as I was well below the rated specs. But it to wanted to wind up some. Because I is the operator would the between the motor and the rigid shaft with the flexible shaft passing right next to me, I was afraid what would happen if something went horribly wrong, and the flexible shaft parted, and then whipped around at 3600 RPM, and I'm sure it would have a sharp nasty end to boot. I could see myself out in the middle of the jungle being very seriously hurt. So the flexible shaft got canned.

So now I've gone to a straight shaft design attached right to the motor, through a Lovejoy flexible coupling and the external thrust bearing so the driving thrust is not applied to the motor, even though the motor could handle it.

I would love to get one of the commercially made long tail motors. I'm thinking about having one imported.

I do need to make my webpage about my motor a little bit clearer about what I tried in the past, and what it is that I'm actually doing right now.

Greg
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
51,870
Re: Beating out the cup

Thanks! You're right about the flexible cable. I originally got into that based on the specs. It appeared that it would handle the torque. So I ordered one through McMaster Carr and just like you said it wanted to shape itself like a corkscrew, they call that helixing in the industry I found out. I hadn't purchased the toughest one available, so I thought going up to the strongest size that was available would be enough as I was well below the rated specs. But it to wanted to wind up some. Because I is the operator would the between the motor and the rigid shaft with the flexible shaft passing right next to me, I was afraid what would happen if something went horribly wrong, and the flexible shaft parted, and then whipped around at 3600 RPM, and I'm sure it would have a sharp nasty end to boot. I could see myself out in the middle of the jungle being very seriously hurt. So the flexible shaft got canned.

So now I've gone to a straight shaft design attached right to the motor, through a Lovejoy flexible coupling and the external thrust bearing so the driving thrust is not applied to the motor, even though the motor could handle it.

I would love to get one of the commercially made long tail motors. I'm thinking about having one imported.

I do need to make my webpage about my motor a little bit clearer about what I tried in the past, and what it is that I'm actually doing right now.

Greg

commercially available units are just someones backyard creation that they refined and started to sell

from the sounds of you test of dropping the prop in the water, you are also over-propped for the available power from the small diesel.
 

steelespike

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 26, 2002
Messages
19,069
Re: Beating out the cup

So deep in the water perhaps it is cavitation as I recall straight inboard boats do create a certain amount of a bubble stream.
That I believe is the low pressure side of the prop creating bubbles released from the water.In affect like boiling caused by the decrease in pressure.Are you saying the boat surges as the motor slows and boat slows as the motor revs.
Also is it possible the gouvener is getting involved.
Is the boat intended for displacement type speeds about 6-8 mph? Or is it intended to plane?
 

takoateli

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 9, 2009
Messages
31
Re: Beating out the cup

commercially available units are just someones backyard creation that they refined and started to sell

from the sounds of you test of dropping the prop in the water, you are also over-propped for the available power from the small diesel.

Yes, you're right. The commercial ones really are just something that people have refined. But there is one other aspect to the commercial ones, and that is that they have much better fabrication equipment and a much wider selection of materials.

I'm actually located deep in the jungle into Yanomami Indian village. It's a reasonably domesticated village, where we have satellite Internet, running water, hundred and 10 kW generator, etc. etc. but it still is quite primitive and that we have very little materials to work with and very few pieces of equipment. Basically I built this thing with parts that I gathered from different places online, a driveshaft I had fabricated out in town, a driveshaft carrier that I bought ready-made from a place that made a different kind of long tail motor, and the only tools I had at hand were an angle grinder, and AC stick welder, and a drill and drill press. Some of those ready-made long tail motors are real pieces of art made on CNC milling machines, with laser cut parts, and TIG welded.

But, I think one point maybe you are making, is that as I test and refine my motor it's going to become something similar to the ready-made long tail motors.

I do believe I am over propped. Today I added an anti-cavitation plate and I believe that's going to tell me a lot. I also smoothed the square edges on some of the fins that travel in front of the prop, to hopefully reduce drag and turbulence, so cleaner undisturbed water gets to the prop.

I'm not sure that my anti-cavitation plate is on the right angle. I can't leave my boat and motor down at the river because people would mess with it. It's one of the downsides of living in an Indian village. If I had the boat and motor at the river I could have seen the angle needed for the anti-cavitation plate. So instead what I did was guesstimate, and didn't tack it down too hard, knowing that I might have to change it.

I guess now to probably going get an education in anti-cavitation plates. I didn't know how close to put the plate to the prop, so I looked at a Yamaha 100 hp motor, and Yamaha 15 hp motor, and a Suzuki 60 hp motor, and there wasn't that much variation between them. There was about an inch and a half of space between the prop tips and the anti-cavitation plate. I ended up putting my anti-cavitation plate a little bit farther away from the prop, because my prop is running under a very unique condition. It is not angled perpendicular to the direction of travel. My shaft is completely straight and doesn't have the zigzag of the commercially made long tail motors. So, my propeller runs on an angle, which I'm sure also aggravates the cavitation. I know from running outboards on great big heavy boats likely run down here on the rivers to hold big loads of goods or fuel, that when the boat starts swinging around the turn in the rear end of the boat isn't tracking straight, and the water flow across the prop is on angle the prop wants to cavitate and you lose control of the boat. So I've got that going against me too.

Anyway, I just made some changes to the motor (taking off a little bit of the cup, and adding the anti-cavitation plate) so I won't know where I am until I do another test. I'll probably do that in a few days. I'll let you guys know how it works.

Greg
 

takoateli

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 9, 2009
Messages
31
Re: Beating out the cup

So deep in the water perhaps it is cavitation as I recall straight inboard boats do create a certain amount of a bubble stream.
That I believe is the low pressure side of the prop creating bubbles released from the water.In affect like boiling caused by the decrease in pressure.Are you saying the boat surges as the motor slows and boat slows as the motor revs.
Also is it possible the gouvener is getting involved.
Is the boat intended for displacement type speeds about 6-8 mph? Or is it intended to plane?

Anyplace in my posts where you see "caveating" please read "cavitating". Oh how I'm starting to hate spell check. I'm turning it off for good. But this message is already dictated and writen so there might be some "caveating" in there.

Yes I agree, I do believe I am cavitating and over propped. I should've gone with my own calculations when I bought the prop. Hopkins propeller is saying that I really should've bought a different one now. But of course that's fine site for both of us. I still think perhaps it was right to have gone with the prop experts suggestion as I did. It's always wise to listen to wisdom and experience.

With regards to what the boat is doing when it surges, the motor speeds up at the same time that you can feel that the boat has lost traction. The feeling is the same as if you were driving a car at a steady speed and then the driver suddenly released the accelerator. Except the difference is that with the case mentioned above with the car the motor would decrease in speed when the accelerator is released. In this case the motors RPM is increasing, which clearly shows either cavitating or ventilating. Okay, so back to the surging. So I feel the boat take a noticeable decrease in speed from an obvious reduction of thrust (I feel myself fall forward a little bit, I run the motor standing up) at the same time that the motors RPM speeds up, then the search goes the other way and I feel the boat surge forward (I feel myself falling back a bit) at the same time that the motor's RPM goes down. I would say it surges about once every 2 to 5 seconds, or said another way, it's about 2 to 5 seconds between forward surges.

Now during the surging the governor is definitely getting worked, but it's clearly not that the governor is not working right and is hunting, the term for when a governor keeps overshooting the desired speed and never settles down. When the prop slip increases for whatever reason, the governor definitely lets off, and then when the prop slip decreases and the motor lugs down I can hear the governor dumping in more fuel.

In fact when I first tried my motor I was running light, but then during the ride it rained really hard. Don't forget I'm in the Amazon. The boat filled up with a lot of water and it really changed the way the boat went through the water. It also changed the way the water was coming off the stern and running up to the prop. The cavitation stopped, but my motor loved way down and I lost a few miles per hour in speed. I also used way more fuel during the part of the run where the boat was loaded heavy. I really think with the right prop and all the dynamics right, if I can run at close to 3600 RPM without the governor being pegged am going to get good speed and efficiency.

What I'm running is a metal canoe. They fabricate them here in backyard shade tree operations. No two boats of the same, and even if you eyeball down one side of the hull and then the other there's even differences between them. I don't think they really have a form that they make things on. I believe they fabricate the curved ribs, and then somehow attach the steel plates to them and then just keep adding them together. There is zero engineering that goes into these things. They just build them. But what's interesting about these boats, as well as the wooden dugouts that they're modeled after, is that they go really nice with a small motor, and if you keep increasing horsepower they almost become a planing hull in operation. I've seen a large wooden dugout with the big motor running alongside my friends little Boston whaler with a 100 hp four stroke on it, and the Boston whaler only ever so slowly overtook the dugout. Some of the folks I live with here many many years ago had a big wooden dugout with an inboard outboard diesel that they dropped in there on a lark. They said it's the fastest boat they ever owned. They also said that you could see it a mile away on the river because it threw up a huge spray as it screamed along. That's one thing these dugouts and metal boats do, they throw up a pretty strong bow spray, not the bow wake, but just jets of water coming up each side of the hull. For that reason I put the factors on my bow, as many speedboats have, to direct the spray down otherwise when you run in a good crosswind the upwind spray gets blown back into the boat and you get soaked.

Sorry to go on and on, but this boat is clearly a displacement hull at these speeds, but if I put a 40 hp on it it would behave more like a planing hull boat though there be a lot of wetted surface compared to a speed boat. But the transition is very smooth going from displacement to planning because it doesn't really happen with a sharp transition as a planing hull does. That's a very nice feature when you're running through water with a lot of submerged rocks. When you get to that spot you can just slow down and go as fast as you like. With the planing hull there's always the temptation to maintain enough speed to plane, so the boat doesn't settle down deep in the water with the motors foot down even deeper.

I guess to really put a number to your question, I would say that this boat is intended to use somewhere between a 15 hp and 40 hp motor, and for example with a 15 hp on it I can do about 20 miles an hour. So I would say with my little diesel I'm probably well below what you might consider the hull is "designed" for, or wants to do, which is probably a better way to put it.

Thanks for the replies everyone!
Greg
 

steelespike

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 26, 2002
Messages
19,069
Re: Beating out the cup

Interesting about the Dugouts. In the early 1900's they thought that a boat had to be long and narrow and slice through the water.
The earliest speed boats were steam with a hige steam engine turinig low rpm with huge props they were all engine and coal bunkers
I think they reached speeds approaching 40 when a fast family boat had 6 hp and did about 6-10 mph.
They would put up hige spray and lean way over fron prop torque.
I think about 1910 or 1915 someone discovered if you flattened the bottom a built a light hull the boat would plane
with a relitively small 4 cylinder motor developing about 15 hp . by the 1920s a family runabout could run 20 to 25.
and race boats were approaching 100.
To get back to your prop; you might be able to carefully flatten the cup with a leather or wooden hammer
Or perhaps gently with a metal hammer. Your direct drive would require a smaller prop/pitch than say an outboard with a gear case with a 1.7 or 2,0 ratio. A 9.9 johnson has a 91/2" X 10 prop with a 2.42 ratio, motor turns 5500 the prop turns about 2275.
so you can see that at 3600 your about 60% faster prop speed. And at 6" your pitch is only a 40% reduction.
Point is I think we are on the right track trying to reduce effective pitch.
 

takoateli

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 9, 2009
Messages
31
Re: Beating out the cup

Everyone who's following this thread and has posted, thanks!

Today I tried my motor again, this time with the anti-cavitation plate. When I installed the anti-cavitation plate I didn't know on what angle to put it. It seemed like it would've been a lot of work to take the motor down to the boat and put it on, just to see what angle is needed. I figured I'd take a shot at guessing.

Well I was way off. The cavitation plate was on too steep of an angle which wanted to drive the propeller down deep in the water and keep it down there. With a lot of force on the steering arm I could keep the propeller near the surface. It was good enough for a test to see what effect the anti-cavitation plate had, and to see how the prop would behave in that situation.

What I found out is that the anti-cavitation plate works very well. I could have the propeller very close to the surface without the propeller ventilating. Everybody down here calls them anti-cavitation plates, but I'm thinking it's really an anti-ventilation plate, something that stops the propeller from being able to suck air from the surface.

One thing that I saw today was that even with the anti-cavitation/anti-ventilation plate I was still leaving the telltale trail of bubbles. Not a lot, but enough to show that the propeller isn't running properly. I think I know why, the pitch of the two blades was not identical, one had more, one had less, so I'm sure they were fighting each other.

Anyway, the anti-whatever it is plate really does a good job and I'm glad I added it to the motor. I've already modified the angle to what I think should be correct. If not correct it's very close.

Something else I found is that the prop is still definitely over propped. So something else I did tonight was grind off some more of the cup. Another thing I did is to check the symmetry of the blades. It's something I do when I'm bending aluminum propellers back into shape after an unfortunate encounter with a submerged object. I take the propeller and lay it on a flat surface, and then measure from the flat surface up to the top edge of one of the blades, then I rotate the propeller to the next blade and measure again. Well I did that with my little propeller that I bought from Hopkins propeller, and what I found is that there's a huge difference between the blades. And this is with a brand-new prop that hasn't suffered any damage. I think Hopkins propeller really blew it on this one. Something else I noticed when I started looking closely at the cupping is that the cupping of each blade was also very differently shaped. So between my grinding and some pounding I'm bringing the two blades into symmetry. One of the blades has less pitch and the other had more, and I'm making the one that had more become like the one that has less.

Tomorrow I am going to finish bending the one propeller blade that had too much pitch, and once I have the two blades equal I'm going out for another test. I think it's going to be very good tomorrow. If I can get the motor up to top-end in the RPM range, and not lugging which makes the governor dump in too much fuel for a proper mix, I think I'm going to have good speed and very good fuel efficiency with my little diesel motor.

I'll let you all know how it works out. Thanks again.
Greg
 

steelespike

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 26, 2002
Messages
19,069
Re: Beating out the cup

As I understand it there is a 4 blade prop that has 2 blades pitched lower than the other 2 blades.
Of course it doesn't seem that would work with a 2 blade.
I wonder if you could adjust the antivent plate so it just slid along on the surface.Might make it easier to control the angle.
I think your spell check got you again."bending aluminum color"
Good luck.
 

takoateli

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 9, 2009
Messages
31
Re: Beating out the cup

As I understand it there is a 4 blade prop that has 2 blades pitched lower than the other 2 blades.
Of course it doesn't seem that would work with a 2 blade.
I wonder if you could adjust the antivent plate so it just slid along on the surface.Might make it easier to control the angle.
I think your spell check got you again."bending aluminum color"
Good luck.

Thanks!

About the prop with blades with different pitch, I wonder which blades win. It sure seems like either the blades with lower pitch would be dragging or the blades with higher pitch would be cavitating.

Yeah, it wasn't spell check that got me, it was my dictation program Dragon Express. I need to watch what it's typing more closely. Sometimes when I get rambling fast it writes a whole lot at once and it's easy to miss something.

I did angle the anti-ventilation plate so it will skim and not tend to dive. It might still need some tweaking. I might see today but it's raining hard.

You can see photos at http://gregihnen.me
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,357
Re: Beating out the cup

About the prop with blades with different pitch, I wonder which blades win. It sure seems like either the blades with lower pitch would be dragging or the blades with higher pitch would be cavitating.

Ayuh,... It don't really matter, 'n it'll no doubt be Both happening at the same time....
It'll Vibrate to beat 'ell....

I did the exact opposite to a plastic trollin' motor prop years ago,...
I wanted more pitch for runnin' it on my canoe...
I heated it, 'n bend the blades abit...
It Works, but does vibrate quite alot...

No way in 'ell I could get the blades perfectly Matched...
 

steelespike

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 26, 2002
Messages
19,069
Re: Beating out the cup

I think I read about the 2 different pitches on the Turning Point prop site.
Do you have it balanced with a slight prop end bias and do you have stops
to limit up and down and steering limits?
I saw a post about motorized regular canoes flipping over if the motor was turned too far.
I don't know if it applies to square stern and long tail motors.
 
Top