battery charging issue has me stumped

FishHog

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you stated 0 ohms rectifier to battery.... ?? yet does not reflect that reading you see at the rectifier. test point??
agreed, that is why I started this thread as I'm stumped. But I do need to dig into the solenoid contact points. Just need some better weather, fingers got too cold today.
An no offence taken, but yes I'm measuring ohms.
 

FishHog

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Find the 1" X 1" fuse box on the engine side . The fuse is blown. I believe it is a 20 amp both of my Rudes have factory fuse holders.
Unfortunately not it. One of the first things I checked. Tested fine but changed anyway. But now that you say that I will verify the wiring is fine as well next time I'm testing.
 

oldboat1

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As you probably know, reversing battery wires for a split second will blow out the rectifier, as would disconnecting the battery while the engine is running. Don't give up on old Bill from Occam.
 

FishHog

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As you probably know, reversing battery wires for a split second will blow out the rectifier, as would disconnecting the battery while the engine is running. Don't give up on old Bill from Occam.
well if that's the case I probably blew it today doing my testing.
 

saltchuckmatt

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I have a 92 3 cylinder 25....I will see if I can replicate the situation.

For me...testing a rectifier is quite easy and fast.

Testing the voltage without a battery on a larger engine is something I would not do and wonder why anyone would.

8 hp, pull start....no problem.
 

stresspoint

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i know in some circles this is frowned upon ,however i do it all the time without any repercussions.
disconnect the battery terminal when the motor is running , if motor stalls that usually means there is a rectifier / regulator gone or the alternator / generator is gone..
 

saltchuckmatt

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i know in some circles this is frowned upon ,however i do it all the time without any repercussions.
disconnect the battery terminal when the motor is running , if motor stalls that usually means there is a rectifier / regulator gone or the alternator / generator is gone..
That works on say an older car engine....but not a self generating outboard. Also, not good for anything with a computer.

By the way, to the original poster, and as "the Crosbyman" always says, "No Wing Nuts"!
 

FishHog

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That works on say an older car engine....but not a self generating outboard. Also, not good for anything with a computer.

By the way, to the original poster, and as "the Crosbyman" always says, "No Wing Nuts"!
wish it was that simple. 3 different batteries, three different sets of bolts and no difference.
 

Crosbyman

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this is like groundhog day.... measure your observed voltage variations from point "A" where you say the variataionsare evident then all the way to the batt post B+ via the solenoid interconnect point

post your measured values values and observed reactions to RPM changes per site of measurement and we will get somewhere with all this.

btw groundhogs took a beating today
1712261078766.jpeg
 

FishHog

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this is like groundhog day.... measure your observed voltage variations from point "A" where you say the variataionsare evident then all the way to the batt post B+ via the solenoid interconnect point

post your measured values values and observed reactions to RPM changes per site of measurement and we will get somewhere with all this.

btw groundhogs took a beating today
View attachment 396373
Sorry wasn't trying to bring things back up to you. I didn't venture out to the dock today as the weather was poor here as well. I will get back at it when weather improves.
Thanks,
 

FishHog

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Finally a nice day, spent the afternoon on the dock trouble shooting. Long story short I'm still stumped.
I get increased voltage all the way to the end of the battery cables, right until I hook them onto the battery. Started thinking that since the battery is 100% charged that its just not sending power even though I know that's not how it works. Took my lawn tractor battery, drained it down to 12.1v. Hooked it up to the motor with nothing else but the battery cables to it and went for a ride with the volt meter on it the entire time. Never saw any charging or increase in voltage.
So now I'm thinking I'm getting voltage, but no amps behind it and once hooked to the battery is doesn't make a difference in the batteries voltage. Not sure what that is a sign of but I don't know how to explain it otherwise.

Odd that 2 different rectifiers and 2 different stators are doing the same thing.

Anyway, Appreciate everyone ideas, but its not wiring, fuse, battery. I would like to think its not stator or rectifier, but at the same time it has to be.
 

Crosbyman

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by ohms law the disconnected end of the batt cable will be the highest resistance point of the cct so it is normal to see vols maybe not amps but volts only !

with the batt connected the highest resistive point is no longer the open air cable end

work back to the solenoid and back to the rectifier and... stator AC source
 

dingbat

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Started thinking that since the battery is 100% charged that itā€™s just not sending power even though I know that's not how it works. Took my lawn tractor battery, drained it down to 12.1v. Hooked it up to the motor with nothing else but the battery cables to it and went for a ride with the volt meter on it the entire time. Never saw any charging or increase in voltage.
Pretty much confirms what Iā€™ve said all alongā€¦ your battery is bad.

ā€œFully chargedā€ is a meaningless measure of performance. All that means is the battery is at capacity.

If you have a dead or dying cell, your battery capacity is reduced. If the battery is shorted internally, the regulator keeps pushing charge. Run it in that condition long enough youā€™ll burn up the regulator
 

Crosbyman

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yet at several posts OP says battery charges up fine, runs the starter fine and no apparent "voltage change" when hooked up to a different battery (lawn tractor battery)

well in theory with RPMs current/volts should flow out of the stator/rectifier and to eliminate the battery " option" as the source or the cause a simple 12v filament bulb could be attached to the output of the rectifier alone asa new load.... and grounded on the engine frame. It may solve the mystery

IF the rectifier/stator assembly is pushing out volts and amps the bulb should light up. If it does not the problem is engine side.

if it does problem is battery side but all his batteries can't be bad can they ?

An ammeter would do the same to observe things between rectifier and battery.

the ground hog is out again...snow is all gone :)
 
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