Re: Attaching transducer to transom with epoxy?
Wow.
YD, I'm not going to argue with you because it is clear that you are one of those types of people who is never wrong.
Actually .. I am one of those 'types' that Right most of the time. I am not some kind of cyber megliomaniac that chooses to post to a thread unless I have something to give from experience. Take it or leave it.
Hopefully someday you'll take that gigantic chip off your shoulder.
I hope you Never have to wear such sleeves as mine. Im here to help. Chips are Nothing and my shoulders are strong.
I stake a how to guide on this thread and you say such things as this .. I am bewildered by your statement. I can only think that you took it personally.
If you mount the ducer plate properly with 5200 ( I prefer the fast cure 5200 ) I doubt you would have any problems.
Here is how I would do it without the epoxy mounting.
1. Install the ducer Dry ( without any 5200 ).
2. Tape the transom around the plate.
3. Remove the ducer.
4. Prep the area inside the tape lines with a scotch bright or 180(ish) sand paper.
5. Prep the ducer plate the same way. Give a few scrubs across where the screw holes are on the outside.
6. Acetone wipe both surfaces.
7. Apply a dab of 5200 FC on each hole.
8. Apply some 5200 FC on the mounting plate of the ducer. ( this is the trick .. smear the 5200 on the whole plate with a spreader or your latex gloved finger making a good 1/8" thickness of 5200 on the whole surface )
9. Hand Mount your ducer with a screwdriver .. only semi hand tight ! ( dont crank it down all the way ).
10. Clean up the gooshed 5200 with a flat head screwdriver.
11. Pull your tape.
12. Clean up any residual 5200 with a quick wipe of a dry rag .. then clean up the rest with a damp mineral spirit rag. Dont get too nutso cleaning up around the screw heads.
Now you have one of the best mounting gaskets. Some make the mistake of tightening the screws all the way down basically leaving No caulk between the two surfaces.
I see the Theory of Auger01s post. But without proper beading its still going to fail. Sure the screws/holes cant come in contact with the wood .. but the epoxy holes can.
If your still worried about screws into your transom .. then the best bet would be to lam glass a block of solid glass and epoxy that to your transom .. then mount the ducer to that.
Just get some wax paper .. cut up some mat and 1708 or woving roving. Wet out and roll till you you build up 3/4" of solid glass. Cut/sand that for your mounting plate. We used to make solid backing plates from left over resin/glass on the side. Basically if you had extra glass and resin about to kick .. you goto the Plate and use the left overs creating a 3/4" solid glass plate ( cut a section out when you need it ).
I hope this helps you.
YD.
Now this is basically a "how to" post. Nobody has done a step by step in this thread until I did.
I have stated Both ways of approaching this problem .. Step By Step.
I consider Nobody has done this . .. and I dont like your response being such a one sided personal response to myself.
If you dont like reading .. then Dont post.
If done correctly, the epoxy should bond with the fiberglass skin of the transom and keep the water out. Most transom skins are at least 3/16 thick and that is penty of glass for the expoxy to bond to.
I agree that glueing a block to the transom and then scewing the unit to that is the most bulletproof option, but it may not be asthetically pleasing to some.
I'd say that your method would be very likely to crack and leak... I would think that simply sealing screw holes with 5200 would be much safer.
Honestly, as tough as 5200 is you could probably just sand both surfaces and glue the 'ducer on with it. Secure with masking tape till it sets and it'll probably be there for good
You are suggesting putting a large hole for a few #8 screws. Yes the screws will hold into the epoxy .. but the epoxy will not keep out the water. Drilling 1/2" epoxy filled screw bases will not keep out H2O .. it only makes the diameter larger for H2O to get in.
Yes .. bedding through hull fittings and screw holes below the waterline is a subject of some debate. I have given my advice. Drilling larger holes into fiberglass and replacing it with fiberglass/epoxy is redundant. Sealing any hole and mantantence is Key.
You dont need a sandwich of cutting boards or wood between your mounts .. you Need proper Bedding.
You can shoot down my other post if you like .. but Im sure I was spot on about How to Do This .. Both ways.
YD.
No .. I suggested that anyone that would consider shooting down my post is welcome .. because I am Right on this.
Your welcome to disagree.
All Im saying is this is too much of an approach to bed the ducer down correctly.
I never gunned your post.. go ahead and gun mine down. You will not be able to. The OP can do what he wishes form the information given herein .. I give a step bye Step guide on How to do this. .. What do you give me ? .. Sarcasm and Bashing toward yourself. I give Information.. That is all I give.
What I have said in the post above yours is Correct .. you can state your reasoning behind that. Im not here to be little anyone. Not you or anyone else. .. but I can say for sure How to do this in Anyway.
Peace out.
YD.
I have stated How to do this on both levels of approach .. HOW to .. Not just a recomendation ..
Break my posts down and get back to me ..
YD.
