Are surge brakes always a PIA?

poconojoe

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Sep 10, 2010
Messages
1,966
I ditched my surge brakes years ago and installed electric. Much happier with the electric brakes,

POCONOJOE is spot on with everything he posted. He said everything I would have.
Yeah, my electric trailer brakes are so nice!
No more brake bleeding.
No more replacing wheel cylinders.
No more slamming noise when I stop or start.
I can fine tune them with the brake controller.
Plus my factory brake controller is integrated into my Silverado's braking system for added safety.
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,454
I have electric over hydraulic with disc brakes. I would never have drum brakes again if I ever put my boat in salt water and that includes electric drum brakes.

On my pontoon trailer I still have drum surge and replaced the crappy TieDown unit. It failed after 6 years. I replaced it with a Titan unit that is superior to TieDown
 

greekfreek

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 5, 2010
Messages
141
I have surge brakes on my 2013 tandem axle Eagle trailer. They don't run a ground wire for the reverse lock out solenoid. It grounds through the ball.. I noticed since I painted the top of the ball yellow to see it better on camera, I lost the ground.. So I have to run a wire. My previous trailer, 2010, I had to replace the solenoid.. Yes they are a pain when the solenoid does not work, but I have keys to bypass it..
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,454
I have surge brakes on my 2013 tandem axle Eagle trailer. They don't run a ground wire for the reverse lock out solenoid. It grounds through the ball.. I noticed since I painted the top of the ball yellow to see it better on camera, I lost the ground.. So I have to run a wire. My previous trailer, 2010, I had to replace the solenoid.. Yes they are a pain when the solenoid does not work, but I have keys to bypass it..
The reverse lockout solenoid gets its ground from the trailer ground. The trailer ground is connected to the vehicle ground through the 5 or 7 pin connector. You never rely on the ground through the hitch ball.
 

Commander_47

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Nov 18, 2016
Messages
86
The number one killer of trailer brakes is rust. Generally, the surge brake housing is galvanized or zinc plated. If the shocks inside leak, or the master cylinder leak at all, the fluid will eat the zinc coating and rust begins. One thing with the shock is that the exposed rod will rust, then when it is compressed, it tears the seal and the leaks begin.

Another source of leaks is the back up cut off solenoid. This is usually screwed into the output of the master cylinder and is not protected very well. It is prone to being knocked into shifted and torn loose causing more leaks.

If your hydraulic lines are rubber, well, storing outside in the weather will trash these lines pretty quickly. This is a double edged sword, the solid steel lines are prone to rust and break fairly easily due to the flexing of the trailer, the rubber lines rot....but in my experience, the rubber lines are much easier and cheaper to replace.

Disc brakes are arguably the best. Biggest problem is they will rust in a minute, unless you buy the super expensive stainless ones or the coated ones. Same with the calipers. Even so, with disuse even these quality parts will lock up.

This also happens with drum brakes.

Lack of use and sitting out in the weather will lock up the calipers, rotors, wheel cylinders and shoes. Every time the surge brakes put pressure on the locked up mechanism, the fluid has no place to go and will seek the weakest part to work on, break, and leak.

Guys will spend hundreds of dollars on a boat cover, and totally neglect their trailer. Best advice is to prevent damage that causes the leaks.

Cover the operating parts when not in use, and every month or so connect the trailer and drive it around a little.
 
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