Are All Boats Repairable?

[FishFight]

After looking for a project boat for sometime I found one that I thought would make a neat fishing boat. I like the idea of being able to have a layout designed for the way we like to fish in SE Georgia.

This boat caught my eye and I thought the price was right- mainly paid for the trailer- so I brought her home.

Boat is a 1977 Mariner 180

Upon cleaning out the trash the previous owners piled up I found worse case scenario. Through hull corrosion. It appears that where the boat sat on the carpeted running boards corrosion has deteriorated the hull. I’m assuming this is from the carpet holding saltwater and just eating away the boat as it sits on the trailer. I could not see the corrosion when inspecting because it is only on top of the running boards and the boat was full of trash.

I still would like to build the boat but my question is - Is this bad of corrosion even repairable or do I need to start the search over for a new hull? Corrosion is present in roughly 4 areas. Picture is of worse area

 

[racerone]

All depends on your budget I guess.----Cut out that damaged part.-------Make an exact piece to fit the cutout.-----Keep that part in place with a plate inside the boat with 3" overlap all around and some rivets.

 

[piperjoe]

Welcome to the forum! After looking at the photos you provided, and considering the amount of time and funds required to restore a boat, I would suggest that you pressure wash the inside of the boat. This will allow you to get a much better look at the metal condition within the hull and you’ll be able to see where the water is leaking from on the hull. There’s a lot of tiny pits in the metal where the corrosion is, and, I would also wonder about the condition of the aluminum structure around the hull rivets. Just a friendly suggestion here to help you know what you actually have to work with so that you can make a good decision as to restoring the boat, or, finding another one to work with.

Safe boating,
Joe

 

[stresspoint]

as posted above , you need to check the extent of the damage before continuing , a good spray down with detergent and a pressure wash will bring out most pitted areas.

all boats are reparable , however with an aluminum hull you face the dreaded corrosive affects of salt water + the affects of the hull sitting in the elements after the salt has started to decay the structure..

you may have got lucky and it is only the obvious areas that need repairs , if so an experienced welder will have no problem patching those areas.

 

[Scott Danforth]

my guess the prior owner used pressure treated lumber in the bunks.

turn the hull upside down and put a light under it at night. you will see all the holes.

can it be repaired, everything can be repaired. however will the repair be financially feasible? only you can answer

 

[FishFight]

Thanks guys. Here is another picture zoomed out a little. The previous owner sprayed some type of black sealer on the inside. I’m guessing a bed liner type material.

I’ll try the light trick and poke around with a screwdriver to see how bad it is.

 

[jbcurt00]

@classiccat had horrible corrosion and rib end chine cracks

 

[Gibbles]

I had a tear in the bottom of my starchief.
I think the old trailer setup for it had rollers and those rollers worked their way out.

I had that issue on another boat, but it didn't contact the hull.

I found someone that could weld (tig) aluminum.
He fixed the tear, and then welded a plate on the backside.

You can't even tell it's there from the outside, just a hint of the weld repair/scar.

I would assume he would cut out the bad section and then weld in a repair section.
And then back that up with a plate to ensure it won't break later down the road.

 

[SHSU]

As others have said, how much money do you want to spend.... I think most of us have thrown way more money into our hulls then we could ever hope to get out of them. These are projects that make no sense but we love them all the same.

SHSU

 

[FishFight]

Thank you for the replies. Its nice to know that there are options and it was not a definitive "your screwed." Cost is always a variable but this was never going to be a budget build or a cheaper option to get out on the water (I have another boat) but more of a fun project that one day i hope to sling fish over the side of. I would put this somewhere in the middle of Budget Build and Open Checkbook. The initial cost is essentially the cost of a trailer so I am starting from a decent point. I would like to do all of the work myself which will take longer but be worth it in the end.

Thank you again and I will keep you updated.

 

[Moserkr]

If theres a bed liner inside the hull, it can trap salt water. Keep that in mind, the corrosion could be worse as you peel that up. They put it there to stop leaks and made their problem worse in the end. Finding a hull that isnt full of holes can be done for minimal cost and effort. Id be extremely weary of a boat in the condition you are considering.

 

[FishFight]

If theres a bed liner inside the hull, it can trap salt water. Keep that in mind, the corrosion could be worse as you peel that up. They put it there to stop leaks and made their problem worse in the end. Finding a hull that isnt full of holes can be done for minimal cost and effort. Id be extremely weary of a boat in the condition you are considering.

Valid point I am taking into consideration. How far to take a build knowing the hull is in this type of shape? I am still undecided. I may patch the holes and turn the boat into an open spartan style minimalist fishing boat. similar to a large Jon boat.

 

[piperjoe]

Valid point I am taking into consideration. How far to take a build knowing the hull is in this type of shape? I am still undecided. I may patch the holes and turn the boat into an open spartan style minimalist fishing boat. similar to a large Jon boat.

The question I would consider here is whether I could find a decent hull elsewhere, one that would be a safe hull to be in, one that I would not have to worry about continual corrosion breach, one that I would not have to think about someone else repairing the hull correctly. Restoring/repairing an aluminum boat (I am currently restoring a 1973 16’ StarCraft SS) can take a lot of time and money and you want both the restoration experience and the eventual “on the water” time to be enjoyable. You will be walking around on that open hull framework without the benefit of decking for some time and, even with repairs made by a welder, I would have to be concerned about opening up more corrosion damaged holes as restoration work proceeded, and, whether or not I would catch/see the damage. Lots to consider here that’s for sure.

Safe boating,
Joe

 

[Moserkr]

If the few holes are the only corrosion, then it's fixable. I would wager that theres a lot of corrosion that is unseen, and its probably hiding underneath the bed liner/ribs. Just the work to remove the bed liner to find out would make me walk. Id try the flashlight at night, or put a little water in the hull to see how many holes there are to actually fix.

 

[classiccat]

did you purchase the hull? if its in your possession, you may as well remove the bedliner and ID every leak...then determine if it's worth proceeding. the spots you show are really bad however they can be patched. As @jbcurt00 mentioned, also inspect the rib ends for cracking from the outer-chine flexing (they can be patched as well.)

 

[FishFight]

did you purchase the hull? if its in your possession, you may as well remove the bedliner and ID every leak...then determine if it's worth proceeding. the spots you show are really bad however they can be patched. As @jbcurt00 mentioned, also inspect the rib ends for cracking from the outer-chine flexing (they can be patched as well.)

I am the proud owner. It was full of trash so I couldn’t see anything other than the bottom of the hull which looks good other than the top of the running boards which I couldn’t see.

I have picked the boat up and the corrosion is almost a perfect outline everywhere the boat contacts a running board so I’m thinking it’s due to treated lumber.

I took a risk. Paid $100 more than in thought the trailer was worth and have a project. I still think the boat is really cool it just may take more work than originally planned.

Next step it to clean off some bed liner and paint flip it turtle and shine some lights.

 

[flashback]

Hoping your journey with the restoration will be a bountiful experience..

 

[airshot]

With enough time and money, anything can be fixed. You do have a big job on your hands !!

 

[FLATHEAD]

It’ll cost ,but a bead blast on at least the bed liner coated area in the bottom will flush out any holes and corrosion.

 

[FishFight]

Update. I have the boat tuned upside down to where I could get a better grasp on what type of corrosion I am dealing with.

I have removed the keel.

What I have found:
1.The hull corrosion seems to be caused by treated lumber in the running boards as Scott mentioned. It is almost a perfect outline of the 2x4 running boards. Corrosion is bad and several areas are through the hull.

2.I have also drilled out several pop rivets (>50) the previous owner install with silicon.

3.Several of the existing rivets have corrosion issues and the heads are popping off. I am assuming these will need to be drilled out and replaced.

My thoughts moving forward:
Pitted areas and areas of corrosion need to be cleaned and sealed with some type of epoxy. Possibly a material that can be rolled on and sanded smooth to the original profile of the hull. Once this profile is met I am considering overlaying the bottom of the boat between the two strakes with an aluminum sheet such as a .05 thickness and rivet into place through original rivet holes using solid rivets. Then I can install the keel back into its original place. Between the new sheet of aluminum and the hull I am considering using a sealant such as 5200.

Has this been done is it possible?

I know this is a lot of work to get this old boat back on the water but whats a good project without a challenge.