AQ125A 270 flushing question

kamby

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 30, 2008
Messages
336
Got another question to ask. I have a 1985 Volvo Penta AQ125A with a 170 drive the engine has a closed raw water system. I was wondering when i go to flush it with some antifreeze would it be ok to open the strainer cap on the heat exhcanger and pour it down into the manifold and it would also pour through the copper impeller pipes as well. Or if i should flush it by running should i just stick the drive in a bucket

My owners manual says to remove intake hose off transome shield and add a 7/8id hose and suck it out of a bucket, i heard good and bad about that method.

Ideally i'd like to flush it then redrain it out and whatever remaining water in there would have antifreeze, try as u might those little pockets of water can still do damage, i also remove the raw water impeller to clean it.

Also my exhause bellows has a tiny hole in it and it drains the manifold out, is this normal its not a rip or cut, it looks man made.

Thanks for any advice, gonna go change the oil.
 

Don S

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Aug 31, 2004
Messages
62,321
Re: AQ125A 270 flushing question

I was wondering when i go to flush it with some antifreeze would it be ok to open the strainer cap on the heat exhcanger and pour it down into the manifold and it would also pour through the copper impeller pipes as well. Or if i should flush it by running should i just stick the drive in a bucket

Just stick the hose in the bucket. The pump sucks the antifreeze out of the bucket and circulates it thru the engine. When it comes out the transom at the proper temp rating, you are done.
This is just replacing the raw water with antifreeze. You do not FLUSH it by running that way. Flush the engine on muffs with fresh water to get any salt water out of the system, better yet, if you are in salt water flush with Salt away or a product like it, then when ready for the antifreeze run with the hose in the bucket and fog the engine at the same time.

The exhaust bellows has a hole in it to allow water to drain when the drive is raised.
 

kamby

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 30, 2008
Messages
336
Re: AQ125A 270 flushing question

Just stick the hose in the bucket. The pump sucks the antifreeze out of the bucket and circulates it thru the engine. When it comes out the transom at the proper temp rating, you are done.
This is just replacing the raw water with antifreeze. You do not FLUSH it by running that way. Flush the engine on muffs with fresh water to get any salt water out of the system, better yet, if you are in salt water flush with Salt away or a product like it, then when ready for the antifreeze run with the hose in the bucket and fog the engine at the same time.

The exhaust bellows has a hole in it to allow water to drain when the drive is raised.


The engine already has antifreeze in it. Engine has seperate fresh and raw water systems. Engine tests to -26 or there abouts on the antifreeze.

Wanting to run antifreeze in the raw water manifold to prevent freezing. Then i will wrap the drive and engine in a movers blanket. (overkill i know).



Now to get it to start, odd runs for a second on a shot of gas but does nothing on ether. I thinks i flooded it so i will try tomorrow after the visit with the lawyer.


I will take some pictures. Problem is it get pitch dark here around 4.30 kinda had to cut it short
 

Don S

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Aug 31, 2004
Messages
62,321
Re: AQ125A 270 flushing question

The engine already has antifreeze in it. Engine has seperate fresh and raw water systems. Engine tests to -26 or there abouts on the antifreeze.

Trust me, I know exactly how your system works. I'm a VP certified tech (been to the schools and all).
The raw water goes to a lot more than just the manifold, it goes thru the heat exchanger also, and all those copper pipes on the raw water side, and you don't want to even know what those cost if the get damaged.
You can download an OEM service manual for your engne at the link below. It has a diagram of the cooling system in it.
http://www.4shared.com/account/file/55815583/fad4e100/AQ125145_AB_Service_Manual.html

Also, here is a link to the OEM manual for your 270 outdrive.
http://www.4shared.com/account/file/51930153/3a7e6375/270_Outdrive_service_manual.html
 

captmello

Captain
Joined
Jun 30, 2008
Messages
3,856
Re: AQ125A 270 flushing question

does nothing on ether.

That stuffs no good.


Sounds like your ready for that tuneup now.

Flush your motor. You haven't mentioned salt water or not. Makes a HUGE difference.

Fill with antifreeze through the transum intake like don suggested.


In fact before filling with antifreeze I would flush the manifold and block individually to remove sand and sediment from the cooling passages.

Follow your manuals.
 

kamby

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 30, 2008
Messages
336
Re: AQ125A 270 flushing question

Wow thanks for those links very helpful.

Boat is freshwater. Sorry i forgot to mention that.

I just got confused from don's earlier message they way he described it i though he was talking about the engine being raw water cooled.

I gues i'll go and get the 1" id hose from the hardware store and clamp it on the transom intake. First i got to get it started, i think it was just flooded. Not sure how that little fuel pump works on it.

Any advice to get to the hose esier or do i have to take the helmut looking thing off. My book does not mention how the helmut comes off. My guess is by the two allan wrench screws.
 

Don S

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Aug 31, 2004
Messages
62,321
Re: AQ125A 270 flushing question

I gues i'll go and get the 1" id hose from the hardware store and clamp it on the transom intake.

No, you don't clamp it onto the transom plate, you want it attached to the metal tube going to the raw water pump. Look at the flow diagram in the manual and think about what you are trying to accomplish. Don't just follow blindly some written words that you seem to be reading incorrectly.
 

kamby

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 30, 2008
Messages
336
Re: AQ125A 270 flushing question

OK it get now, the copper pipe that goes from the raw water pump in to the transom shield then. If i got it wrong again im sorry. I think it runs into a rubber hose, your manual does not show the water cirqulation. However my my little one does that came witht he boat.

You'll have to forgive my stupidity here this is all newish me and im not a boat tech.

with my goof up with the ether, typically i know better than that not to use that junk, not even sure why i had it on hand.

I have slight dislexia so i may mis-interpret what u say and jumble up what i say. Not trying to be stupid just learning.
 

Don S

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Aug 31, 2004
Messages
62,321
Re: AQ125A 270 flushing question

Forgot the 125 manual doesn't have a picture, I will post one shortly.
 

Don S

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Aug 31, 2004
Messages
62,321
Re: AQ125A 270 flushing question

See if this will work for you.

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • Untitled2.jpg
    Untitled2.jpg
    33.5 KB · Views: 1

captmello

Captain
Joined
Jun 30, 2008
Messages
3,856
Re: AQ125A 270 flushing question

this is all newish me and im not a boat tech.

If you haven't owned an I/O before, they require quite a bit of maintenence. Your engine, being a closed system is a bit different but not by much.

No salt water is good!!

flush the manifold and block individually to remove sand and sediment from the cooling passages.

this was incorrect in that I suggested flushing the block which as we know has antifreeze in it and doesn't require flushing.:rolleyes:

However at some time you should pull the drain plug on your exhaust manifold to allow sediment to drain out.

In the mean time you better plan on getting to know your engine and drive. There is much more to winterizing and maintaining your boat than filling with antifreeze.

Thats where the guys at this website come in, Apparently we just love to help!!!

Read the "winterizing your boat" thread at the top and take it step by step. Don't skip the tough parts. We'll help where we can.:)

Did you get it running?
 

kamby

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 30, 2008
Messages
336
Re: AQ125A 270 flushing question

If you haven't owned an I/O before, they require quite a bit of maintenence. Your engine, being a closed system is a bit different but not by much.

No salt water is good!!



this was incorrect in that I suggested flushing the block which as we know has antifreeze in it and doesn't require flushing.:rolleyes:

However at some time you should pull the drain plug on your exhaust manifold to allow sediment to drain out.

In the mean time you better plan on getting to know your engine and drive. There is much more to winterizing and maintaining your boat than filling with antifreeze.

Thats where the guys at this website come in, Apparently we just love to help!!!

Read the "winterizing your boat" thread at the top and take it step by step. Don't skip the tough parts. We'll help where we can.:)

Did you get it running?

Yeah i been studying the system on that boat, pretty intricate way beyond my ability except for general maintanance. Thankfully my climate doesnt get too awfully cold very seldom hit the teens. A proper winterizing, nice warm blanket on the engine and drive and a pat on the gunwhale, should do her good, most the locals think i'm putting too much into winterizing. I say an ounce of prevent is worth the gold of a good running boat. My uncle had a four winns boat, never winterized it, 3rd year he owned it block cracked, antifreeze in the bilge it was a mess.

My antifreeze tested to -26 or -36 forget which so i am gonna leave it, next year i'll flush it out.


My interpretation of the photo with the wonderful drawings and notes i am to remove the rubber hose off the transom shield inside the engine compartment that hooks to the copper pipe that runs into the raw water pump and hook it up with another hose and a bucket and suck up some antifreeze, sounds simple enough.


No i didnt get it to start, it was 3.30 and i only had about an hour of daylight left so i stopped. I assumed i flooded it. Or there could be a problem with the fuel pump on the boat. Usually a good 3-4 pumps of the throttle and she fires right up. Unfortunatly im by myself so i can have someone tell me i am pumping any fuel in or not. May have to take the pump off and rebuild or clean.
 

captmello

Captain
Joined
Jun 30, 2008
Messages
3,856
Re: AQ125A 270 flushing question

My interpretation of the photo with the wonderful drawings and notes i am to remove the rubber hose off the transom shield inside the engine compartment that hooks to the copper pipe that runs into the raw water pump and hook it up with another hose and a bucket and suck up some antifreeze, sounds simple enough.

Yes.


May have to take the pump off and rebuild or clean.

No. cannot rebuild or clean. If the engine was flooded, you should smell fuel at the carb. If not, you should change the fuel filter or filters. Again, this is part of winterizing and maintenence.

the locals think i'm putting too much into winterizing

I wouldn't let them see the blanket on the motor and outdrive.:D

None of the maintenence is to difficult. Learning to do it right the first time will make the next time quick and easy.

I cannot stress the importance of preventative maintenence enough. Without it, your boat won't last. When your ready to do some, let us know.

Remember, when you are adding the antifreeze to the raw water system like you are, you'll be spraying antifreeze out of the exhaust. clean it up right away before the neighbor dog cleans it for you.:eek:

Best of luck!
 

kamby

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 30, 2008
Messages
336
Re: AQ125A 270 flushing question

Yes.




No. cannot rebuild or clean. If the engine was flooded, you should smell fuel at the carb. If not, you should change the fuel filter or filters. Again, this is part of winterizing and maintenence.

Ok there is no fuel filter that i see, just a hose running form the tank, to a pump, then a metal hose running to the carb, and then there is a clear hose between the carb and pump, my guess it just releases vapor from the pump into the top part of the carb to be burned off.
Hasnt been started since late september when i last took it out. Typically im good about starting it every 2 weeks or so. The gas is still fresh smelling but its the summer mix. I got some stuff to treat it so i may have to take the boat and go fill the tank up, plus i dont know how good my gas sending unit is for accuracy on the guage.

I wouldn't let them see the blanket on the motor and outdrive.:D

Its parked on my the side of my property and behind a gate. No one will be the wiser :D

None of the maintenence is to difficult. Learning to do it right the first time will make the next time quick and easy.

I cannot stress the importance of preventative maintenence enough. Without it, your boat won't last. When your ready to do some, let us know.

Im ready to do it, was gonna do the oil and flush yesterday
Remember, when you are adding the antifreeze to the raw water system like you are, you'll be spraying antifreeze out of the exhaust. clean it up right away before the neighbor dog cleans it for you.:eek:

The stuff i got is propoleyne glycol low tox antifreeze from prestone, supposed to be safer around pets, but i still plan on hosing the yard down when im done.

Best of luck!

Thankyou
 

captmello

Captain
Joined
Jun 30, 2008
Messages
3,856
Re: AQ125A 270 flushing question

Ok there is no fuel filter that i see, just a hose running form the tank, to a pump, then a metal hose running to the carb, and then there is a clear hose between the carb and pump, my guess it just releases vapor from the pump into the top part of the carb to be burned off.
Hasnt been started since late september when i last took it out. Typically im good about starting it every 2 weeks or so. The gas is still fresh smelling but its the summer mix. I got some stuff to treat it so i may have to take the boat and go fill the tank up, plus i dont know how good my gas sending unit is for accuracy on the guage.

There has to be a filter. Look in the owners manual. Sometimes its in the carb itself. Order one up.

The clear plastic hose is a safety devise for marine fuel pumps. If the pump should fail or begin to leak, it leaks into your carb instead of the bottom of your boat. If there is fuel in that line, the pump is bad.

Its a good idea to keep the tank full. helps to minimize condensation issues. Speaking of condensation, water in the fuel could be a contributer to your starting problems but who knows.

Let me know how the oil change goes. those are alays an adventure with boats.:D
 

kamby

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 30, 2008
Messages
336
Re: AQ125A 270 flushing question

There has to be a filter. Look in the owners manual. Sometimes its in the carb itself. Order one up.

The clear plastic hose is a safety devise for marine fuel pumps. If the pump should fail or begin to leak, it leaks into your carb instead of the bottom of your boat. If there is fuel in that line, the pump is bad.

Its a good idea to keep the tank full. helps to minimize condensation issues. Speaking of condensation, water in the fuel could be a contributer to your starting problems but who knows.

Let me know how the oil change goes. those are alays an adventure with boats.:D

I'll check it out and look for a fuel filter, gonna pull the sensor out of the tank and look in and see how dirty the tank is in and how bad the sensor is. If worse comes to worse i'll take the hose off and stick it in my gas can and start it that way. It looks like there is a check valve and strainer on the carb according to the picture. Would that be the filter. Clear tube is clean with no gas.
 

kamby

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 30, 2008
Messages
336
Re: AQ125A 270 flushing question

Took a few photo's of the enine and the carb and the fuel pump.

The picture with the fuel lines, the one going to the pump is the one with the white mold on it. I know i know i need to clean the bilge area out and clean the motor and paint it. Sorry for the pic quality, cant find my camera had to use my phone

Pic2.jpg



Pic1.jpg



Pic4.jpg



Pic3.jpg
 

kamby

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 30, 2008
Messages
336
Update

Update

I went out and tried a few things.

First i went and removed the hose off the fuel pump and tried to suck some fuel up, it took a little bit of effort to get it up the hose, however i didnt try real hard, (didnt want the gas in my mouth). When i was doing it, it made a scratching noise in the tank and i couldnt blow it back into the, it drains really slow back into the tank.

Also i removed the metal line off the carb and it had fuel come out so its getting to the carb i guess.

When i touch the carb linkages just barley tap them, gas squirts out. I may have flooded it cause i also pourd a dribble of gas down the carb.

It also pumps gas too when i pump the throttle, which is good.

On the spark plug side, the wires are stiff.
 

Don S

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Aug 31, 2004
Messages
62,321
Re: Update

Re: Update

There probably isn't a filter on it. No filter was installed by Volvo on the engine, and the boat manufacturer didn't or you would see one between the tank and the fuel pump.

All you have to do is disconnect the throttle cable at the engine, then operate the throttle by hand. The fuel pump doesn't give you fuel into the carb when you just pump the throttle, that is the accelerator pumps job, and it is part of the carb. (have a look at the carb in the manual) it should pump fuel out the inverted J tube on the top of the carb. That is, if there is actually fuel in the carb.
Might pour a couple ounces of gas into the carb and see if it will start. You could also pull the spark plugs and check for raw gas on the spark plugs, that would indicate flooding.
Have you checked to see if you actually have good spark? All the gas in the world won't help if you don't have spark.
 

kamby

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 30, 2008
Messages
336
Re: Update

Re: Update

There probably isn't a filter on it. No filter was installed by Volvo on the engine, and the boat manufacturer didn't or you would see one between the tank and the fuel pump.

All you have to do is disconnect the throttle cable at the engine, then operate the throttle by hand. The fuel pump doesn't give you fuel into the carb when you just pump the throttle, that is the accelerator pumps job, and it is part of the carb. (have a look at the carb in the manual) it should pump fuel out the inverted J tube on the top of the carb. That is, if there is actually fuel in the carb.
Might pour a couple ounces of gas into the carb and see if it will start. You could also pull the spark plugs and check for raw gas on the spark plugs, that would indicate flooding.
Have you checked to see if you actually have good spark? All the gas in the world won't help if you don't have spark.


It does have fuel come out the inverted J when i pump the throttle it even comes out that when i flick the throttle cables with my finger the one on the front and the one on the back, it started doing this after i sucked some gas up the fuel line, which took a couple mouth fulls of air and a bit of effort it made that scratching noise. A couple ounces of fuel down the carb throat will start it, but will only run for 2-3 seconds tops.

Im gonna work some more in the morning, than after that nothing i can do until after thanksgiving.

Should i add a fuel filter to the line, if so what one?
 
Top