Re: Applying Gel Coat with Stencils and Applying and Removing Masking
Opps,
I have never used gell before. I am sure that concerns you. My son is a very capable 17 year old, but he has a job that works him on the weekends, so I will probably be solo. I know what I am signing up for is big and I know my inexperience is working against me.
I am not using Patch Aid. I plan to thin with styrene and acetone as needed to match the viscosity that I find my gun can handle.
I checked out my pressure pot and gun. I performed well with water.
I am going to run some latex paint through it next week and find out what my viscosity needs to be to layout the product. One thing I noticed, the pressure pot kept popping pressure above 40 PSI. I dialed my regulator down to about 50 PSI, and than made the pressure at the pot more stable. My compressor was able to keep up with a full pot spray, I never noticed a change in the delivery of air or the water as I pulled the the two stage trigger. I know everything will be different with a high viscosity liquid like paint or gell.
Please note, I am not doing the entire boat. Everything I do in this stage will be from the candy stripe and below. I will save the topsides for later.
I think I can pull it off
1. I will have everything masked and ready to go
2. I can get the first color (WHITE) sprayed (wax in my final coat)
3. get through the gun to get acetone flowing through the lines and tip and let it sit ( I am using liners in my pot, this will help in cleaning)
4. then I will pull my masking
5. Finish the gun cleaning
6. Mix and shoot second color (wax in final coat)
7. Clean gun
8. Mix and shoot third color (wax in final coat)
9. Clean gun
10. cover with PVA.
If I find that my plan is caving in, then I will adjust and salvage what I can. My confidence is high, my aim is high. If I toast my gun, then I will go buy another one, and make the adjustments that I need to, to come at it again.
A few questions
How long do you suspect I have to pull the masking once the first coat hits the surface?
I have a 20 foot bow rider. I have two gallons for my white coat, a half gallon for my candy stripe (red) and a quart for my stencils and some stars. Do I have enough material to do the job?
When I get to sanding the second/third color down to the inlay, should I go with wet or dry sanding and what grit?
Your on the right track RWB..a few things though.
1. Your pressure pot should not have popped. The regulator ON the pressure pot should be about 8-10 psi. INLET pressure should not matter unless you have the HVLP one ( you stated you have the normal one ).
2. There is a spring loaded Needle valve on the underside of the lid ( backflow preventer ). REMOVE this. If that thing gets stuck then you will not get pressure to the pot. ( DONT tip over the pot though or the gel will get into your regulator )
3. When cleaning/flushing your gun turn OFF your air pressure at the GUN. You dont need to spray your acetone. You should only have a pee stream coming out of the fluid nozzle. In fact you can remove your air cap and clean that with the stream of acetone ( along with the pot and anything else that has gelcoat on it to save acetone in the final cleanup ).
4. I have 2 pressure pots at my disposal dong full sprays ( just in case ). You can always return one if you dont need it.
5. Scotch bright All of your fineline tape and/or masking tape for crisper edges.
6. Wait until the gel is about "wax" consistency .. you can remove the masking anytime as long as you dont brush it against the gelcoat. Then remove the tape when the gel no longer "strings".
As far as how long until you can pull the masking off.. thats variable depending on many conditions. From the point of the last coat.. you should be able to pull in about 30 min to 1 hour. Plenty of time to clean the gun. ( remember to flush your gun with water after the acetone flush before you put your PVA in the pot..after the PVA flush with water FIRST and then final flush with acetone before you retire your gun.
Your Going to have Plenty of gel after your reduction ( save a little bit of all colors just in case you need to spot in a burn through ).
Your inlays should be blocked out starting with 320 WET. Most pros wetsand with a hard rubber block on there first sand out.
Use guide coats ! Pencil or markers or dykem ...
Hope this helps
YD.