Any Transom experts here. I have a Transom Rebuilding Question.

Chris51280

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if you look at the bolts, it's perpendicular to the transom face. Many used drilling jigs. If you have a drill press, you can drill a hole into a block of wood and use that to guide the drill. since you already have the holes in the fiberglass, use that as a locator. the holes are bigger so it allows some clearance for the assembly to be fitted on. I also coated the inside of the holes with resin to seal.
 

1985 Century Mustang

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if you look at the bolts, it's perpendicular to the transom face. Many used drilling jigs. If you have a drill press, you can drill a hole into a block of wood and use that to guide the drill. since you already have the holes in the fiberglass, use that as a locator. the holes are bigger so it allows some clearance for the assembly to be fitted on. I also coated the inside of the holes with resin to seal.

Thanks for all the responses.

I do have a drill press, but my question is what's the angle, A 90 degree angle seems odd in what I've researched. Is it 90 degrees?
 

Chris51280

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Well, what angle are the studs coming out of the housing that go thru the transom to the inside?

Yes, 90 degrees from the transom face is perpendicular.
 

1985 Century Mustang

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Hey guys, after it's all sanded out, Do I fiberglass the new transom plywood before I install it, and do I cut out the bowling pin before I fiberglass it. I only have a small section to do, its maybe 3 feet wide by 3.5 feet in height, Photo below.
Your thoughts.

20240427_114422.jpgScreenshot_20240430_130014_Gallery.jpg
 
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JASinIL2006

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24 hours is plenty. In reality, overnight would probably be sufficient as long as you’re not stressing it too much.
 

1985 Century Mustang

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One of the members suggest I put a good coat of chopstran fiberglass with resin on this bare transom first, prior to putting the new transom in with the peanut butter mix.

I also thought it to be a good idea, and if so should I cover over the bowling pin cutout and the bolt holes also with the chopstran and later trim it out? Your thoughts?

Screenshot_20240430_130014_Gallery.jpg
 
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Chris51280

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If you use peanut butter with the 1/4 chop strand, it will fill all the voids sandwiching it with the plywood. The csm will not go into all the uneven surfaces. It will not even add much strength.
I would however clean the outside up a bit more so the 1708 wrapping around has something to grab to. not the gelcoat
 

JASinIL2006

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If you're worried about strength, CSM won't add much anyway. You'd want to add a layer or two of 1708.

Personally, I would not bother. I would do as @Chris51280 suggests, though, and make sure the area around the transom is ground free of gelcoat, so that your tabbing has a good layer of pink fiberglass to which to adhere.
 

1985 Century Mustang

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Question- When notching out the steering swing on the new transom, what's the best way to do it exactly? Is there a template I can use etc. Am I going in on an angle with a keyhole saw? I'm confused... The second image shows the area I need to focus on that's circled in red.

PS- Can anybody post a photo on how it should look before the transom mount is put on. Screenshot_20240506_182749_Adobe Acrobat.jpgScreenshot_20240507_145505_Gallery.jpg
 
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