Another Winterization Thread!

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Dec 11, 2023
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At the risk of starting a fight I wanted to post this question. I'm new to an I/O boat. After purchasing my Ebbtide with an 8.1 Gi-J DPS-A last fall I had the local Volvo Penta dealer winterize it and change fluids and filter. I dewinterized it in the spring with no issues. I could not find any evidence that they pumped or sucked any antifreeze into the engine block or drive. 4 hoses were disconnected and 4 drain plugs were opened. My Volvo Penta manual for my specific engine says that is all that is needed to winterize the engine. There is no mention about anti-freeze. I'm in Tennessee and it can get down to close to zero degrees although our typical cold winter nights are low to mid 20's. I'm a hands on kind of guy who enjoys taking care of my own stuff. If I do it I know exactly what and how it was done. So am I crazy to think about changing my own fluids and filters and winterizing the boat by disconnecting the 4 hoses, opening the 4 drains, trimming the outdrive all the way down, draining my freshwater tank, and removing the portable toilet? I expect opinions both ways and all sincere opinions are welcome. I especially would like to hear from those who winterize themselves and don't use antifreeze. If you do that how cold does it get where you are? Thanks, James
 

Bondo

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At the risk of starting a fight I wanted to post this question. I'm new to an I/O boat. After purchasing my Ebbtide with an 8.1 Gi-J DPS-A last fall I had the local Volvo Penta dealer winterize it and change fluids and filter. I dewinterized it in the spring with no issues. I could not find any evidence that they pumped or sucked any antifreeze into the engine block or drive. 4 hoses were disconnected and 4 drain plugs were opened. My Volvo Penta manual for my specific engine says that is all that is needed to winterize the engine. There is no mention about anti-freeze. I'm in Tennessee and it can get down to close to zero degrees although our typical cold winter nights are low to mid 20's. I'm a hands on kind of guy who enjoys taking care of my own stuff. If I do it I know exactly what and how it was done. So am I crazy to think about changing my own fluids and filters and winterizing the boat by disconnecting the 4 hoses, opening the 4 drains, trimming the outdrive all the way down, draining my freshwater tank, and removing the portable toilet? I expect opinions both ways and all sincere opinions are welcome. I especially would like to hear from those who winterize themselves and don't use antifreeze. If you do that how cold does it get where you are? Thanks, James
Ayuh,....... Donno, don't know you that well,....... Yet,.....

I've lived in the far north all my life, 'n have always known that, Air Don't Freeze,......
What you propose is entirely doable, No problem,....
 

Scott Danforth

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Antifreeze will freeze, air doesn't until -471F
 

aspeck

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Bondo knows me and will attest to the fact that I am crazy! But that is beside the point here.

My feelings on antifreeze for winterization in most I/O's is that it is a waste of time and money. If you drain the cooling system there is nothing in there to freeze. What little water might be in the low spots has plenty of room to expand if, but more than likely it will all be evaporated until it gets cold enough to freeze. Drain the system and you are good to go.
 

BRICH1260

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I re-fill with antifreeze to reduce the oxidation (rust) build up inside the block and headers.
 

Lou C

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You'll get many different opinions on this, Mercruiser has recommended filling the seawater side of the system with AF for quite a while. I have always done it being in salt water trying to minimize the internal corrosion, I can tell it works to an extent by watching the exhaust water when I start up in the spring, after the AF is out, the water is clear not rusty brown which is common for cast iron engines stored here dry. I mix up some Sierra PG antifreeze and fill the engine and exhaust manifolds with that. Cheaper than the -100 from West Marine and you can mix it to meet the coldest conditions you might see.
antifreeze & refractometer.jpg
 

Grub54891

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I simply drain all the water out. Haven't had any issues for many years. Fresh water boat though. Don't forget the power steering cooler!
 

cyclops222

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IF you do it correctly ? Then you will never have a marina part timer NOT DO IT CORRECTLY. And then say.......... WE did it right.
Been there.
I have never used antifreeze in anything I own. Except cars. I run carburetor dry and drain water. I do check all oils for getting some water into it.
 

havoc_squad

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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738
At the risk of starting a fight I wanted to post this question. I'm new to an I/O boat. After purchasing my Ebbtide with an 8.1 Gi-J DPS-A last fall I had the local Volvo Penta dealer winterize it and change fluids and filter. I dewinterized it in the spring with no issues. I could not find any evidence that they pumped or sucked any antifreeze into the engine block or drive. 4 hoses were disconnected and 4 drain plugs were opened. My Volvo Penta manual for my specific engine says that is all that is needed to winterize the engine. There is no mention about anti-freeze. I'm in Tennessee and it can get down to close to zero degrees although our typical cold winter nights are low to mid 20's. I'm a hands on kind of guy who enjoys taking care of my own stuff. If I do it I know exactly what and how it was done. So am I crazy to think about changing my own fluids and filters and winterizing the boat by disconnecting the 4 hoses, opening the 4 drains, trimming the outdrive all the way down, draining my freshwater tank, and removing the portable toilet? I expect opinions both ways and all sincere opinions are welcome. I especially would like to hear from those who winterize themselves and don't use antifreeze. If you do that how cold does it get where you are? Thanks, James

I'm surprised you didn't mention that you had a bag of microwave popcorn ready to go if things got interesting in this topic.

Forum answer and a show as a bonus.
 
Joined
Dec 11, 2023
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I really appreciate all the responses and the good natured humor:) My boat is freshwater only, never been in salt water since new. Pretty low hours at about 120 since new. I can see how adding antifreeze will act as an anti-corrosive and that would I think be especially important in a saltwater boat. I'm going to follow my plan which is follow the VP winterization / storage instructions to the letter (no antifreeze). I'll save about $200 by doing it myself and I'll know how it was done. Thanks again everyone!
 

Scott06

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Apr 20, 2014
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I really appreciate all the responses and the good natured humor:) My boat is freshwater only, never been in salt water since new. Pretty low hours at about 120 since new. I can see how adding antifreeze will act as an anti-corrosive and that would I think be especially important in a saltwater boat. I'm going to follow my plan which is follow the VP winterization / storage instructions to the letter (no antifreeze). I'll save about $200 by doing it myself and I'll know how it was done. Thanks again everyone!
$200 buys a lot of beer…
 

Renken2000Classic

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May 10, 2022
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233
4.3L OMC Cobra. Last couple of times I've poured (then forced) the pink stuff down the hose that comes from the back until some comes out the open drains in the outdrive. Reason is that the little screw in the bottom of the PS cooler is Ok to get out, but rather a pain to get back in and the threads are fine. This way I just leave it in.

Other than that, drain and dry.
 
Joined
Dec 11, 2023
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Not to beat a horse that has already been beaten but I see some comments about making sure the power steering pump cooling water is drained. My Gi-j manual in the winter storage section makes no mention of a power steering cooling circuit. If after doing the steps given in the manual for the rest of the engine and I need to make sure it is drained what is the easiest way to do that?
 

Lou C

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These coolers are mounted on the rear of the engine right above the bell housing so they can be tough to see & get at. Follow the raw water intake hose all the way back from the impeller housing & you’ll find it. Often they are mounted at an angle to make them self draining if you disconnect the hose from the impeller housing & hold it down to drain it. Then hold the hose up & fill with -100 marine AF that will push out any remaining water (outdrive tilted down) till you see AF come out the water intakes.
 
Joined
Dec 11, 2023
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Thanks Lou, I'll follow your instructions. You'd think that Volvo would have included that in the engine manual. Oh well, glad for all the knowledge that can be found here on iBoats forum:)
 

Scott06

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Thanks Lou, I'll follow your instructions. You'd think that Volvo would have included that in the engine manual. Oh well, glad for all the knowledge that can be found here on iBoats forum:)
Depending on the exact set up it may be self draining. My merc drains with out any issue, but some of them have a trap in the cooling hose
 

Lou C

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Here's what it looks like, the hose that goes up to the impeller housing should be attached to the left side of part #14, the hose that goes to the transom mount will be attached to the other side. It doesn't look as if this has a drain plug on it, but can be hard to tell sometimes with just line diagrams.
 
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