Another transom.

[Lectro88]

See how bad I get beat up on this one.
It was 40 degrees today.
I figured… let’s play around with the saws and some old treated lumber.
This is what happened.
After several goofs a 2x12” got thrown into the mix.
The tongue and groves are to be turned to shed. 2x6’go to bottom.

These have been laying around outside since July.
Figure on clamping and letting lay around wood heater in basement a few weeks see if any twisty comes around.,. Or splits or cracks.
I know as a general rule epoxy and treated don’t play well together.
Also stainless is said to chemically not mix well with treated. However I have used stainless in decks and no problems as of yet.
This is an old scrap boat. I’m just killing time during the cold.
One of those let’s see how this turns out.
I don’t normally do treated.
But if dry enough it should outlast me…
again.

No real guarantees that this will make it to the install.
Depends on several things and how the epoxy actually does.
I have seen epoxy take pretty good hold with good prep and time to really really dry out.(the wood)

 

[alldodge]

Like what your doing but as you say not so sure about treated

 

[Chris1956]

Polyester resin is just fine for your transom. I have used it on dry PT lumber w/o issue. Stainless screws are fine with PT as well. It is the galvanized ones that corrode.

Looks like you still need a piece for the very base of the transom.

To lay it up use some mat on the old fiberglass and find a way to clamp the new wood to it, as a sandwich. After that hardens, glass the inside with some mat, all over the new wood, plus down the sides and bottom of the hull a few inches. Try to use most of a gallon of resin. You can use a bit less catalyst to allow it more time to absorb into the wood. If cold, cover the hull with an old blanket add a light bulb or small, safe heater to warm up the resin for better cure.

Poly resin is flammable.

All in all a good job, IMHO.

 

[Lectro88]

Polyester resin is just fine for your transom. I have used it on dry PT lumber w/o issue. Stainless screws are fine with PT as well. It is the galvanized ones that corrode.

Looks like you still need a piece for the very base of the transom.

To lay it up use some mat on the old fiberglass and find a way to clamp the new wood to it, as a sandwich. After that hardens, glass the inside with some mat, all over the new wood, plus down the sides and bottom of the hull a few inches. Try to use most of a gallon of resin. You can use a bit less catalyst to allow it more time to absorb into the wood. If cold, cover the hull with an old blanket add a light bulb or small, safe heater to warm up the resin for better cure.

Poly resin is flammable.

All in all a good job, IMHO.

Chris I really appreciate the reply.
I always leave that lower section of the transom out… Because,. And..,

If for some reason water gets in the hull parked or playing on the water.
The water doesn’t get to the transom.
Then to make up for the lack of support where I leave that wood out.
I lay a few extra layers for 24 oz woven roven and the stringers will knee into it right the.
Also there was only 1 main stringer in center and I will be adding 2 additional on the sides. 1 on each side to be clear.

I am strictly for now an epoxy guy, especially around structural. Just because I’m new to this boat stuff and I tend to Waaay over-do things to err on the safe side.
And I don’t ever want to go back and do or re-do that area., again.
I’m slowly incorporating polyester in non critical areas.

As promised I hung the clamped “probate”transom close to the heater to give a little drying time. There has been snow and ice on those boards as we had ice come through the last 2 weekends straight.
Like I said this is a lower priority project.
My Mako 19 is higher up on the list.

View attachment 355123

 

[Lectro88]

Here is the other transom I did that is also missing that lowest section.
Those stringers were cut back to give me room to lay I think 3-4 layers right there.
And the stringers will be replaced 1 at a time and as said knee into the transom.
You can see the ledge I incorporated in my butcher block transom.
That the floor will rest on. That wasn’t there before. It was a floating floor..

Oh this transom is a solid 2-1/4” thick.