Aluminum Starcraft transom repair?

[KilroyJC]

Re: Aluminum Starcraft transom repair?

While we're talking new cores, two of the things I have questions about are:<br /><br />1) The trim along the upper edges was secured with rivets that went into blind holes in the wood. They have since corroded away. Should I just use screws to replace them once I install the new core, or try to replicate the riveting?<br /><br />2 Around the transom cut-out, there are wood screws that secure the transomwell/seating assembly to the wood core. Would it be more structurally sound to drill all the way through the aluminum skin and secure this with stainless machine screws/washers/nuts?<br /><br />Thanks,<br />Matt M.

 

[KilroyJC]

Re: Aluminum Starcraft transom repair?

OK - I got pix of the steering -<br /><br /> http://mysite.verizon.net/kilroyjc/ <br /><br />Please click on "Steering range of motion issues" on the left navigation bar.<br /><br />I'm wondering if using a transom-mount steering system as opposed to a pivot-tube steering system would be a solution to this? <br /><br />I shoulda stayed awake in geometry class...<br /><br />thanks,<br />Matt M

 

[DJ]

Re: Aluminum Starcraft transom repair?

Kilroy,<br /><br />You're fretting over minor details. It's rare that outboards have the same swing, left to right, with a cable system.<br /><br />You MAY be able to change it by mounting the pivot arm in a different hole on the outboard pivot.<br /><br />Also, do you have the correct pivot arm? There was more than one choice.<br /><br />How's the transom rebuild going?

 

[KilroyJC]

Re: Aluminum Starcraft transom repair?

DJ - <br /><br />Well, the transom rebuild is going slowly, because I live in north Jersey, & the boat is down the shore, 60 miles away...<br /><br />I have to build a rolling A-frame to hoist & store the motor first, then I can get a better look at the pivot arm. My problem/question isn't really about equal travel from left to right, but the total travel available - when you compare the range of motion with the steering attached, and then with the steering disconnected, you can see that there's a rather large difference between the two ranges.<br /><br />I really didn't notice this until I picked up a cable lubrication fitting - when I read the mounting directions for it, I found I had nothing to attach it to! That's what is shown in that first photo.<br /><br />I have had a minor stroke of luck, however: A friend of mine has just gone into business for himself as a cabinetmaker, with a full shop, so I can put the arm on him to laminate the replacement transom core & shape it professionally, instead of me doing it "medium-speed" (half-fast ) with cinderblocks and a jigsaw.<br /><br />I won't be able to work on it again for the next two weekends, due to other commitments, so this will be a nice winter work-in-the-weather project.<br /><br />The advantage to that is I won't rush things. I'll be able to sent the whole splashwell assembly to a body shop to have it painted properly after the miscellaneous holes & other imperfections are TIG-welded up, and some other reinforcements installed. Plus, I'll have time to find a new or good used red-plug harness & extension to replace the beat-up one I currently have, which had been critter-chewed & soldered back together.<br /><br />Would there be any advantage to sandwiching fiberglass in-between the layers of wood in the core? Would the epoxy be a suitable bonding agent for the lamination? Just something else that percolated in the back of my brain over the last few days.<br /><br />I'd much rather hash out the details here & have things shot down than screw it up down the road.<br /><br />Thanks again,<br />Matt M

 

[gewf631]

Re: Aluminum Starcraft transom repair?

Originally posted by KilroyJC:<br /><br />Would there be any advantage to sandwiching fiberglass in-between the layers of wood in the core? Would the epoxy be a suitable bonding agent for the lamination?

Just get yourself the wood, glue and screw it until you have the correct thickness, have your buddy cut/shape it to fit, and then coat the whole thing with epoxy. That's more than was done at the factory, and it's lasted this long!

 

[DJ]

Re: Aluminum Starcraft transom repair?

My problem/question isn't really about equal travel from left to right, but the total travel available - when you compare the range of motion with the steering attached, and then with the steering disconnected, you can see that there's a rather large difference between the two ranges.<br />

Kilroy,<br /><br />Understood. That is also a function of the tilt pin and its placement on the pivot arm.<br /><br />Sounds like you're going to do it right. <br /><br />Hat's off. Keep us posted.

 

[John_S]

Re: Aluminum Starcraft transom repair?

Kilroy,<br /><br />Couldn't tell for sure, from the pitures, if the cable actually stops from hitting the transom. If it is hitting, how much additional cable travel do you get, if it didn't hit? If only an inch or two, you probably can build the new transom, to accomidate. <br /><br />I checked teleflex website, but couldn't get a spec for cable travel. I'm on travel, and can't go measure mine, either <br /><br />From your pictures, I agree, the wiper end of the tilt tube, does look like it was cut off, to get some additional turn radius.

 

[KilroyJC]

Re: Aluminum Starcraft transom repair?

Hi EdF-<br /><br />Your advice is appealing to my lazy - I mean efficient - side! I guess I'll keep with the K.I.S.S. principle.<br /><br />DJ - I Guess that the pivot arm is what the link attaches to from the steering capble, but what's a tilt pin? I always thought that was what you manually adjusted the motor trim with (and was always scared of dropping when trying to make an adjustment with the boat in the water. . .)?<br />BTW - Thanks for the vote of confidence!<br /><br />John - The 5th pic down (4th in the red box) shows the full extension of the steering cable - -it stops about 3 to 4 inches away from the edge of the transom cut-out. Due to the splashwell unit design, I really do not have too much in the way of leeway to open up the cut-out, which is why I was floating the idea of either a transom extension or transom-mount steering. The transom-mount steering seems to be the easier route, becuase there's less engineering involved, and I'm not dependent on the tilt tube being a fixed end-point for cable travel.<br /><br />I think my main problem is having the boat so far away, so I get to think a great deal about too many different things, rather than just doing the work!<br /><br />Thanks again everybody!<br /><br />Matt M

 

[KilroyJC]

Re: Aluminum Starcraft transom repair?

OK - More pix on the site...<br /><br /> http://mysite.verizon.net/kilroyjc/ <br /><br />Click on Transom on left...it's not pretty!<br /><br />Successfully pulled the motor, but -<br /><br />Under the plywood pad under the motor, the aluminum has corroded through. <br /><br />HELP!!!!<br /><br />------------------------------<br />Added more pix today (10/17) - follow the links.<br /><br />It is not pretty - I think I'm going to have to learn how to weld aluminum, unless those aluminumn brazing rods live up to their advertising. Anyone ever use them?

 

[KilroyJC]

Re: Aluminum Starcraft transom repair?

Dumb question du jour (21 October):<br /><br />During the wonderful rain we had last week here, I got stuck in traffic for 2 1/2 hours, and the brain started coming up with weird ideas again...<br /><br />Over the last several months, I've seen "my" motor (70 HP) on eBay several times, for relatively cheap, within pick-up distance. <br /><br />My boat is rated for 140 max HP. <br /><br />Being as how I'm rebuilding this thing, any thoughts on hanging 2 motors off the stern?<br /><br />How much of a P.I.T.A. is it to convert to CCW?<br /><br />What else would/should I do to accomplish this?<br /><br />Am I just plain crazy for even thinking along these lines??!?

 

[KilroyJC]

Re: Aluminum Starcraft transom repair?

Back again - <br /><br />OK - I realize that 2 70HP motors off the stern of my boat is just plain impractical - there may be just enough room to mount them, but I'd never be able to steer them...not to mention that stuctually it wouldn't make sense, as there is no bracket other than the one from the keel to the transom to transfer the force forward properly. Looking at things rationally can really just kill the fun sometimes!<br /><br />===========================<br /><br />I just stripped off all the hardware & fittings on the splashwell assembly, & will be getting that ready for a trip to the body shop for patch & repaint.<br /><br />QUESTION: If I use CPES to seal the plywood, can I use "regular" plywood instead of marine-grade plywood? The answer will determine if I make my transom in one piece, or in three pieces - as it came from the factory.<br /><br />I'm only guessing, but here's the situation: The two upper parts of the transom core had two smaller pieces of ply approximately 4 inches high & beveled at the top. My guess is that the same main piece of core was used for the smaller (16') model boats, and rather than having to cut a different transom core out, the factory added the two "extensions" on the larger (my 18') boats.<br /><br />If I can use "regular" ply, I'd get two full sheets to laminate, and then make the core out of a single piece.<br /><br />If I go with marine ply, I'd do what was done at the factory, with a twist - I'd either dowel or biscuit-join the extensions, and then seal/'glass over the whole thing making it a solid unit.<br /><br />I'm asking simply because of the difference in cost between marine & regular ply.<br /><br />I'd go over the exterior with the 'glass because the old core is a true 1 1/2 inch, while plywood these days is a bit undersize (23/32" vc. 3/4'), and that'd both make up the difference, as well as give it a more durable finish.<br /><br />All comments/thoughts/ideas/criticisms gratefully accepted.<br /><br />thanks,<br />Matt M

 

[neebishis05]

Re: Aluminum Starcraft transom repair?

Matt.....I'm sort of going thru the same thing you are. Instead of glassing the core, I've epoxied the plywood, and I plan to skin the inside of the transom with a sheet of aluminum.....using up the difference in the thickness of the plywood that way. So as not to steal someone elses idea....this suggestion came from ''Micheal J.'' on the Aluminum Boat Forum.<br />Ken

 

[KilroyJC]

Re: Aluminum Starcraft transom repair?

Never thought of that...makes a lot of sense, too.<br /><br />THANKS!

 

[KilroyJC]

Re: Aluminum Starcraft transom repair?

Minor Update:<br /><br />Just got my epoxy adhesive and CPES!<br /><br />January I'll start laying up the core, and get the boat to the welding shop by the end of February.

 

[KilroyJC]

Re: Aluminum Starcraft transom repair?

UPDATE:<br /><br />The core is 95% done!<br /><br /> http://mysite.verizon.net/vze8cnv0/id11.html <br /><br />Next weekend I will give it a light sanding and another top coat of CPES.<br /><br />Then it's off to the welding shop to patch the corrosion hole in the transom skin.<br /><br />It's getting there, slowly but surely!<br /><br />Updates as they happen.

 

[KilroyJC]

Re: Aluminum Starcraft transom repair?

YEA!!!!<br /><br />Dropped the boat off at the welder today!<br /><br />Come next week NO MORE NASTY CORROSION HOLE!<br /><br />Not to mention the 11 (yes - eleven) screwholes below the waterline from various speedos, tranducers etc.<br /><br />Where's the global warming already? Enough of the cold!

 

[zzub]

Re: Aluminum Starcraft transom repair?

KIlroyJC: Check with the company that makes Seacast ask them your questions ,It is very strong and well bond to the aluminum, More expensive than wood.

 

[KilroyJC]

Re: Aluminum Starcraft transom repair?

OK - Here's some updated pix:<br /><br /> http://mysite.verizon.net/vze8cnv0/id13.html <br /><br />If all goes well & the weather cooperates, I should have the bulk of the reassembly done next weekend, and the motor hung the following weekend.<br /><br />All things being equal, however, I will give a little leeway & say it'd be in the water by the second weekend in June.<br /><br /><br />AND----<br />I got a late "Christmas Present" from my friends who are lettimg me keep my boat in their driveway: - a new 14X12P 4-blade prop!<br /><br />OhboyOhboyOhboyOhboyOhboy!!!

 

[KilroyJC]

Re: Aluminum Starcraft transom repair?

I'M ALMOST DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!<br /><br />This past weekend was a WHOLE LOTTA work getting finished.<br /><br />Unfortunately, I left my camera down the shore where my boat's at, so no pix until next week...oops...<br /><br />IT's shorter to list what I have yet to do rather than what I finished:<br /><br />- Install rear cleats;<br />- Install fuel tank hold-downs;<br />- Wire in sternlight;<br />- Install rubrail insert;<br />- Find/make a bilge plug for a 1-1/8" hole<br />- Pressure-wash the boat & re-seal the deck.<br /><br />THAT'S IT!<br /><br />The motor fired right up - on the first turn of the crank - once I remembered to clip the safety kill switch that I installed. . . <br /><br />The funky installation I did for the tach plug works just fine.<br /><br />I WANT TO SAY A BIG HEARTY "THANK YOU TO EVERYBODY WHO GAVE ADVICE, SHOT DOWN SCREWY IDEAS I HAD, & GENERALLY PUT UP WITH ME THIS PAST YEAR! <br /><br />I couldn't have done as well as quickly without you!<br /><br />MAYBE I'll get in the water Monday - if I want to deal with the Memorial Day insanity. Probably the weekend after, because I don't want to have ramp-rage or water-rage (road-rage is a given in NJ).<br /><br /><br />PICS TO COME!

 

[KilroyJC]

Re: Aluminum Starcraft transom repair?

Well, it's been a hellacious summer & I won't bore you all with the details. I hate to say it but I'm sortakinda glad that summer is almost over because it's been a lousy one for me, which is why I haven't been on this forum (or many others, for that matter).

Now, on to boat news.

I got in the water on Memorial Day. After about 4 hours in the water, I had a full bilge!

Turns out there was a patch under the keel - and under 20-odd layers of apint - that decided to let go. Man, odo I love that pourable foam!

Then, Whenever the weather was good to work in the boat, I had other committments. When I had no other commitments, it was either raining or too (*&^$W# hot to work on the boat!

I finally got to repair the original patch (6"X8" piece of aluminum over some white compound, held on with 2 self-tapping screws) but wire weheeling the area, drying it completely with a heat gun (roughly 45 minutes of 600 degree air), slathering on Grey Marine-Tex, and fixing over it a 10"X12" heavy aluminum panel, secured with ten #10 machine screws, fender washers & locknuts Inside & outside.

I lost my camera, so I don't have pics - sorry.

On the plus side, I got in the water again this past weekend & got ZERO water through the patch. BUT, I did find that one of the bottom motor mount bolts was seeping, so I have to re-seal that before going on vacation next week to Lake George.


I hope all of you have had a good summer so far & that it continues.

thanks,
Matt