Aluminum Boat Bottom Help

[Bowe]

I have to believe this topic has been beat to death over the years, but I've searched the entire site and I'm still questioning how to proceed with the bottom of my 68 Starcraft Starchief. Investing alot into this boat and I don't want to cut corners, nor do I want to do something that isn't needed.

I filled the boat with water up to the wood flooring, although I'm not sure I got it over the seems on the sides but it had to be very close. I checked the boat several times and only saw 2 rivet that had small leaks (one drip maybe every 5 seconds at most). I marked the 2 rivet that were leaking. One is at the very front and one at the very back in the middle by the drain plug whole. I can get to these from the inside and fix them. I can reset them, use Gulvit, 3M... whatever... I see them.

The person that owned the boat before me did a very nice job of putting in the new floor. Marine grade 3/4...etc. If I have to remove the floor it will also mean removing the wall to the cuddy, the door, the dash, the sides. All of this is in really good shape.

Question is... do I go the extra mile and gut the entire boat to apply Gluvit to the bottom inside of the hull for piece of mind? I plan on using a two part epoxy primer and epoxy paint on the entire boat after stripping media blasting and prep. In fact the product I'm looking at is Total Boat brand. will this help seal the boat? Or is there something else I can use to cover the bottom from the outside that will help prevent leaks in the future?

 

[Grandad]

Whether you "need" to repair the leak at all depends upon how you use the boat and a little upon how OCD you are. I did a bit of a rudimentary calculation based upon your estimation of the frequency of the drops and the size of a drop from general internet info and came up with less than a litre a day entering your bilge. It would be best of course not to have any leaks, but I think that this much leakage can be easily managed by a bilge pump cycling once every 4 or 5 days. I like things done right, but I wouldn't gut the boat to fix that little leak. - Grandad

 

[jbcurt00]

Bowe has a topic going about the boat
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...ll-repair/10114952-1968-starcraft-restoration


BTW Bowe, I recommend cross linking topics when you have 1 related to a new one you start.

 

[Bowe]

Thanks for the reply Grandad! I don't think there will be a problem fixing the leaky rivet I did find. Here is a picture of the boat draining after I filled it full of water to find the leaks

I've called a few places that sell marine paints. It seems like each of them are pushing me toward epoxy primer and paints. They seem to think the epoxy primer will help seal any leaks I didn't see. From reading the threads on this site, I'm not sure that is true. I also see a lot of people talking about using etching primer for the first coat. Again, the marine paint suppliers I have spoken with have indicated the first coat should be epoxy primer... Anyone disagree?

 

[Bowe]

OK... not sure how to cross link topics, but I'll figure it out.

 

[jbcurt00]

Cut the web address (including the http:// part) and paste it into your post like I did above to link your main topic

 

[Bowe]

OK got it...sorry. I'm thinking I shouldn't have started a new post. There were also some recommendations made in the last post that I just say about not asking so many questions all at once and it being a bit to long. No excuse, but I'm new to all of this...

 

[jbcurt00]

Some of all that is suggested by the forum guidleines, some by me.

None of it was intended as punitive

You're good

Breaking it up, helps get answers to it all.

Makes it easier to follow, and refer back to when posting a reply, esp when quoting.

 

[jhendery]

Looks like you have an awesome boat.

I did a rebuild on my aluminum boat that had several leaks. With the deck out it was easy to replace the rivets.

If you only have two leaky rivets I might suggest to use the Marine tex epoxy product. Basically heat the rivet up with a torch and drop a couple drops of Marinetex on the rivet. The product will seep into the rivet for a permanent seal.

Just to be sure I applied Marinetex to each rivet on the bottom of the hull.

I also applied Marinetex Gluvit epoxy on the inside floor.

Good luck!

 

[Bowe]

jhendery that you for the information about the Marinetex product. Never heard of it, but will investigate. Sounds like what I'm looking for...i.e. something I can do on the outside of the hull to help seal the rivets without ripping out the new floor. Like I stated, only have the two leaky rivets that I can see and get to from both inside and out, but this product will help give me piece of mind.

 

[harleyman1975]

Painting boats is something I know a little about. When painting a boat that is aluminum or fiberglass using epoxy primer is a very good Idea. Just had an ASE training class on the new Ford trucks and they say that the Aluminum starts to oxidize in 15 minutes. My plan would be to strip all paint off that you are concerned about with something like 80 grit and then come back over it with 180 grit, wash with phosphoric acid, rinse with water followed by prep sol and then prime with good quality 2 part epoxy primer. This will give you great adhesion to the aluminum. Now do any body work on top of the epoxy primer or you can simply apply sealer (or your topcoat) over the epoxy primer in a "wet on wet" style application. I would be allowing the epoxy to flash for say an hour before applying your top coat. I like to nib my epoxy primer before the first finish coat of paint and then I apply it as follows 1st coat is a med wet or tack coat followed by two full wet coats. While I am aware that some of you guys are using rustoleum or tractor paint (no offense intended) Interlux marine or automotive urethane enamel will give you much better results...however the cost is significantly higher (up to ten times more).

 

[Bowe]

thanks for information harelyman. You are basically confirming what the marine paint supply places have stated and have also added a few extra steps that make perfect sense. Although I'm not familiar with the term "nib".? The only issue I see is getting the entire boat painted at one time. I plan on applying the primer and paint with a roller and using the roll and tip method for the final coat. I either need about 5 friends assisting or I'm going to have to do this in steps. Maybe bottom, middle and than top.

 

[jbcurt00]

Nib = sand/scuff the 'nibs' off the primer so that its smooth

 

[Woodonglass]

Bowe, IMHO you have to ask yourself this question...Do you really want to spend $5-600 bucks for a Paint job on this boat??? We Have LOTS of members that have painted their boats with the Tractor Paint and hardener for Less than $100 bucks

Paint Your Boat with Tractor Paint...Say What!!!

and they look Great and the paint job holds up really well. They have lots of use to proove it. For me...I'd rather spend my money on something else...like a good Fish Locator!!!

 

[Bowe]

Woodonglass... very interesting. I'm all for saving a few $. Given I've spent lots of time stripping all the old paint off, I just want to make sure whatever I do looks OK and stays on the boat. I'll keep reading about this tractor paint!

 

[jbcurt00]

Watermanns Chieftain was painted w oil based enamel, as were many others.

Prep prep prep

 

[Bowe]

Thought I'd share a picture of the boat now lifted off the trailer. Ready to restore the trailer and work on the bottom of the boat.

 

[fishin98]

If your planning on sanding and painting the trailer...I would suggest SANDBLASTING....I did that on my very rusty Shorelander trailer, took everything down to bare metal. Sandblasting cost came in at $200.

 

[Woodonglass]

Woodonglass... very interesting. I'm all for saving a few $. Given I've spent lots of time stripping all the old paint off, I just want to make sure whatever I do looks OK and stays on the boat. I'll keep reading about this tractor paint!

It's ALL about the Hardener!!! I was amazed at the enhanced Gloss and faster cure time. But...after 3 years of use I am now amazed with it's durability. Mine is a Glass boat but I also used it on my trailer and I have absolutely NO REGRETS!!!

 

[Bowe]

I have recently gotten some pricing from Marine Paint Specialist... Yikes! Woodonglass is right, I'm looking at 6 to 8 hundred dollars for marine type paint and primer. Been researching the Tractor paint options.
The trailer is in good shape, a little surface rust. I've taken all the parts off the trailer and can sand blast it on my property. Much like the car frames I've done in the past, I will paint it with Eastwood Rust encapsulator paint, only this time I will spray the silver color. If I don't like the mat finish or the color, I can go back over it with almost any paint and color.