About to do my first VP SX outdrive service and have a few questions

[MalibuMike]

I'm about to pull my outdrive and have a good understanding of how to do it. I have a few questions but will also post what I'm going to do if you have any advice.
My plan is to change the gear oil, build a stand, and remove the drive. I've watched videos online and it seems straight forward. I will be pulling the duo prop and adding marine grease to the prop shaft. Disconnect gear shifting cable and remove 6 bolts .
Once the drive is off Ill be inspecting the ujoint and lube with a grease gun if it is good or replace if necessary. I already have an OEM one ready to use. I'll be replacing the two o-rings on the part of the shaft the slides back in to engine. I see that there is a rubber gasket around the water tube and will replace that. Ill look for any signs of water intrusion.
Here are my questions. I've believe that there is no gasket between the outdrive and the gimbal housing. Should I use any type of sealant? If the gimbal bearing was replaced 18 months by a reputable shop, is it likely that it is a non greaseable one or do all new ones have a way of being greased? Will it even be accessible with the rubber bellow still attached? For reassembly, I will torque the 6 bolts starting at 25ft pounds then up to 50 ft pounds.
Am I missing anything?

 

[bruceb58]

Here are my questions. I've believe that there is no gasket between the outdrive and the gimbal housing. Should I use any type of sealant? If the gimbal bearing was replaced 18 months by a reputable shop, is it likely that it is a non greaseable one or do all new ones have a way of being greased? Will it even be accessible with the rubber bellow still attached? For reassembly, I will torque the 6 bolts starting at 25ft pounds then up to 50 ft pounds.
Am I missing anything?

You can just put some grease on the lip of the bellows.

Make sure you replace the o-rings on all the oil plugs. There are 3 of them including the dipstick.

 

[MalibuMike]

You can just put some grease on the lip of the bellows.

Make sure you replace the o-rings on all the oil plugs. There are 3 of them including the dipstick.

Thank! What does the grease do on the bellows?

 

[bruceb58]

Thank! What does the grease do on the bellows?

just helps as a seal/lube as the nose of the upper gear housing pushes into the bellow.

 

[MalibuMike]

Question for you .....Does water ever get past the two metal mating surfaces? Does the bellow form a water tight seal where it meets the gear housing? I'm still trying to wrap my head around how water stays out without using a gasket.

 

[Horigan]

Water gets past the drive and the gimbal (pivot) assembly. Newer generation drives don't have a gasket between them. The only seal between them is the D-shaped O-ring for the raw water passage.

While the drive is off, check to make sure the plastic raw water outlet on the gimbal assembly where the hose connects is not cracked or failed.

The bellows makes a water tight seal to the tube on the gimbal housing. Greasing the bellows helps ensure a water tight seal and ensures the ridge inside the lip of the bellows drops into the groove on the housing tube. On the other (rear) end of the bellows, apply a coating of triple guard grease to the outer lip of the bellows where it interfaces with the gimbal assembly, and the round drive housing lip that interfaces with the bellows. The rear seal is complete once the six bolts on the drive are tightened.

Other notes, my trim sensor covers one of the large gimbal assembly fasteners and the two screws that hold the sensor in can corrode or break during removal. I would spray a penetrating oil where the screws go into the gimbal assembly. Then apply some water proof grease or gasket sealant to the screws on reassembly. It's much easier to replace the bellows with the gimbal (pivot) assembly removed.

My manual has you coat the six studs with Permatex aviation gasket sealer.

 

[MalibuMike]

Water gets past the drive and the gimbal (pivot) assembly. Newer generation drives don't have a gasket between them. The only seal between them is the D-shaped O-ring for the raw water passage.

While the drive is off, check to make sure the plastic raw water outlet on the gimbal assembly where the hose connects is not cracked or failed.

The bellows makes a water tight seal to the tube on the gimbal housing. Greasing the bellows helps ensure a water tight seal and ensures the ridge inside the lip of the bellows drops into the groove on the housing tube.

Other notes, my trim sensor covers one of the large gimbal assembly fasteners and the two screws that hold the sensor in can corrode or break during removal. I would spray a penetrating oil where the screws go into the gimbal assembly. Then apply some water proof grease or gasket sealant to the screws on reassembly. It's much easier to replace the bellows with the gimbal (pivot) assembly removed.

My manual has you coat the six studs with Permatex aviation gasket sealer.

Thank you. What manual do you recommend I get?

 

[Horigan]

The Volvo manual for your drive. Volvo publishes their manuals online.

 

[MalibuMike]

Water gets past the drive and the gimbal (pivot) assembly. Newer generation drives don't have a gasket between them. The only seal between them is the D-shaped O-ring for the raw water passage.

While the drive is off, check to make sure the plastic raw water outlet on the gimbal assembly where the hose connects is not cracked or failed.

The bellows makes a water tight seal to the tube on the gimbal housing. Greasing the bellows helps ensure a water tight seal and ensures the ridge inside the lip of the bellows drops into the groove on the housing tube. On the other (rear) end of the bellows, apply a coating of triple guard grease to the outer lip of the bellows where it interfaces with the gimbal assembly, and the round drive housing lip that interfaces with the bellows. The rear seal is complete once the six bolts on the drive are tightened.

Other notes, my trim sensor covers one of the large gimbal assembly fasteners and the two screws that hold the sensor in can corrode or break during removal. I would spray a penetrating oil where the screws go into the gimbal assembly. Then apply some water proof grease or gasket sealant to the screws on reassembly. It's much easier to replace the bellows with the gimbal (pivot) assembly removed.

My manual has you coat the six studs with Permatex aviation gasket sealer.

I finally got a manual and read the entire section about removal. The manual does not mention any type of gasket sealer on the two metal flat surfaces but some videos on youtube show guys using it. I will do the Permatex and all the other recommendations you suggest.

 

[bruceb58]

I finally got a manual and read the entire section about removal. The manual does not mention any type of gasket sealer on the two metal flat surfaces but some videos on youtube show guys using it. I will do the Permatex and all the other recommendations you suggest.

Don't use any sealant. Just follow the manual.

 

[Monterey296Twin5.0Gi]

Don't use any sealant. Just follow the manual.

Following the manual makes sense, but it was hard for me to accept not using some type of gasket on our SX-M drive too. If the point is to keep water off of the u-joints then why isn't that better sealed and why does the tube have four grooves in it where it butts against the bellows? It seems like both create a way for water to get inside the bellows.

 

[BRICH1260]

Be sure and coat the input drive shaft splines with grease and grease the same shaft at the gimble bearing. Also slightly grease the six studs before adding the nuts so that it is easy to remove the drive next time. Tripple guard grease is your friend when it comes to servicing a drive.

 

[Lou C]

As long as your bellows is in good shape & that bearing carrier does not have any corrosion on it grease will make the seal for you. My old Cobra has the same set up & no leaks in 19 years of moored/6 months salt water use.
I would however:
When you grease the D/S splines don’t get it in the groove for the o rings that will give you hell when reinstalling it; motor oil only on those o rings.
In salt water if I had a Volvo SX, I would not use sealer between the drive & pivot housing but Evinrude Triple guard to prevent corrosion between the 2 housings.
I use Evinrude gasket sealer on the 6 studs and & never had trouble getting them on & off.
Always replace fill & drain plug gaskets and check the used gear oil for signs of water.
If you’re over 50 or have a weak lower back get a drive jack; it makes this yearly task much easier.