A1G2 decisions. Rebuild or replace?

[achris]

OF761554

Gen II, 'pre-vortec'.. (Yes, it has 'Vortec' on the rocker covers)...

 

[Rick Stephens]

Some members have noted using a pipe that has an outside 1 1/8" diameter plugged into the coupler and sticking through the gimbal bearing to see the angles. The pipe will give you some clues as to exactly where the engine is.

As this drawing shows, the coupler will snug fit a 1.150 diameter pipe or round rod or dowel.

 

[achris]

Some members have noted using a pipe that has an outside 1 1/8" diameter plugged into the coupler and sticking through the gimbal bearing to see the angles. The pipe will give you some clues as to exactly where the engine is.

Nice idea, although I've never had a problem just eyeballing it.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Nice idea, although I've never had a problem just eyeballing it.

But.... yer special.

 

[Rick Stephens]

And as noted by the OP, you can pull the lag screws out of the front mounts and see if you can wriggle things straight. Whatever it takes is valid.

 

[Swedefj40]

I was actually using a 1" pipe which showed the misalignment to port.

 

[achris]

I was actually using a 1" pipe which showed the misalignment to port.

Apart from forcing the engine to hard to starboard before drilling for the mounting coach screws (some call 'lag bolts'), about the only thing that can cause a port/starboard misalignment is an uneven thickness transom.

Chris......

 

[Swedefj40]

Apart from forcing the engine to hard to starboard before drilling for the mounting coach screws (some call 'lag bolts'), about the only thing that can cause a port/starboard misalignment is an uneven thickness transom.

Chris......

I hear ya...I really hope that I don't have to go down that rabbit hole.

 

[Swedefj40]

Just curious but what are the chances that the coupler splines were damaged somehow so that it would prevent the shaft from sliding in?

 

[achris]

If the coupler has been distorted, then a simple turn of the engine 180° and a recheck of the alignment will indicate that. If the alignment is still to the port after the 180° turn, then the engine is genuinely misaligned. If the alignment is now out to the stbd, then the coupler is the problem.

Chris....

 

[achris]

Just curious but what are the chances that the coupler splines were damaged somehow so that it would prevent the shaft from sliding in?

Using a small LED torch you should be able to see the splines quite easily. And if the drive came off without issue, then there shouldn't have been anything to cause any damage.

 

[nola mike]

If you have a left/right alignment issue, then it could be caused by an uneven transom thickness. If the alignment was correct in the past, then something (bad) has happened.

BTW, all we know so far is that the drive is an Alpha One Gen II. Any chance of letting us in on the engine and it's year?

Chris.....

That's the conclusion I reached on mine. Could never get the alignment quite right, and the issue persisted on the new engine. Presumably it's been like that for 36 years, and at least 13.

 

[Swedefj40]

Update:

My issue ended up being squared off splines at the coupler. Drive would go in as far as the coupler and stop there. I was able to get a small triangular file way in there to reach the splines and take off the burrs. I'm assuming I damaged it while installing the gimbal bearing somehow. Anyway, the drive goes in no problems now.

So in the process of cleaning out the splines (old grease, filings, etc) I found a little piece of steel (had some black paint on one end) lodged up against the flywheel deep inside the coupler. Any idea what it was from?

 

[Scott06]

Update:

My issue ended up being squared off splines at the coupler. Drive would go in as far as the coupler and stop there. I was able to get a small triangular file way in there to reach the splines and take off the burrs. I'm assuming I damaged it while installing the gimbal bearing somehow. Anyway, the drive goes in no problems now.

So in the process of cleaning out the splines (old grease, filings, etc) I found a little piece of steel (had some black paint on one end) lodged up against the flywheel deep inside the coupler. Any idea what it was from?

View attachment 365445

If you have the style of gimbal bearing install tool that uses the alignment tool with a hole in it to hold a disc pushing the gimbal you may have been pounding on the splines.
metal piece dont thing it is ring gear or starter gear tooth ?..

 

[Swedefj40]

If you have the style of gimbal bearing install tool that uses the alignment tool with a hole in it to hold a disc pushing the gimbal you may have been pounding on the splines.
metal piece dont thing it is ring gear or starter gear tooth ?..

Yup, you're right, I think that's exactly what may have flatted the splines. Excellent suggestion! I'll have to make sure I shim the install tool next time.

 

[Scott06]

Yup, you're right, I think that's exactly what may have flatted the splines. Excellent suggestion! I'll have to make sure I shim the install tool next time.

I have used a 1” wooden dowel around the outer race and also a 3” pvc sch 40 pipe piece works ok

at least u didn’t need to jank the engine

 

[Franco_boater]

Scott06 you say this install tooll disc mounted on the tool is a wrong one??

 

[Scott06]

Scott06 you say this install tooll disc mounted on the tool is a wrong one??

Ive never used it always made my own drivers out of material i already had to hit outer race.
would ask the OP here that as it seems that is how he damaged his coupler splines

 

[Franco_boater]

Im wondering how ?? I tought its safe tool, maybe he didnt displaced the disk so it dont touch the splines when hammering....

 

[Swedefj40]

The tool I used requires you to set it up by inserting the tool all the way into the coupler and then sliding the disc up to the existing gimbal bearing and marking it position. Then remove it and drill a hole through the shaft for the disc's anchor bolt to bolt through. The mark I made may have been off an 1/8" or so.