98 Johnson leaking hydraulic fluid.

GSX455

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 21, 2016
Messages
157
The PTT motor is either on or off. If she spins, the relays are fine.

To clarify, the motor will raise up a bit on the tilt rams, but the center tilt ram won't move? is that your issue?

Could be a bad trim piston seal.
Yes, exactly, tilt rams will get it up to their max travel but center ram does not extend. The rebuild kits got mailed, so the rebuild of the of all the seals starts this weekend.

Thanks again!
 

GSX455

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 21, 2016
Messages
157
Has anyone rebuilt the trim ona Johnson outboard? I’m trying to get the sleeve out but it seems seized in there. All other O-rings are replaced , I even tried using the sleeve tool, but this is in there
Tempted to leave it in, since the leak in the trim tabs was around the piston and not the outside
IMG_2023-6-25-124412.jpeg
 

ONERCBOATER!

Seaman
Joined
Oct 25, 2022
Messages
57
I rebuilt mine... but just the seals and o rings and a check valve or two.... really liked the metal ones better than the plastic ones.

If the sleeve isn't damaged why replace.... I may be missing something in the picture as I on my phone and my spare reading glasses as I can't find my good ones (Probably need my good glasses to find my good glasses.).

Anyhow not sure what the prescribed options are .... but aluminum and steel expand and contract at different rates.... aluminum moves much more when heated than steel does and that sleeve may be pressed or heat strinked in place. A side note I believe modern Harley crankshafts are heat shinked and pressed in place which is a testament to the utility of this type of connection. I have used this to hold bronze bushing material in steel or in aluminum gear blanks when making gears and wanting the bearing surface to be a permanent part.

Anyhow other folks here like racerone know way more than I do. Take their advise before even considering mine.

Edit....
I tried two different cheapo Amazon rebuild kits.... waste of money and time. Sierra ok... oem best in this case in my opinion. If you used knock off parts before going nuclear on your tt I would rebuild with OEM or Sierra parts and see what happens.
 

GSX455

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 21, 2016
Messages
157
I rebuilt mine... but just the seals and o rings and a check valve or two.... really liked the metal ones better than the plastic ones.

If the sleeve isn't damaged why replace.... I may be missing something in the picture as I on my phone and my spare reading glasses as I can't find my good ones (Probably need my good glasses to find my good glasses.).

Anyhow not sure what the prescribed options are .... but aluminum and steel expand and contract at different rates.... aluminum moves much more when heated than steel does and that sleeve may be pressed or heat strinked in place. A side note I believe modern Harley crankshafts are heat shinked and pressed in place which is a testament to the utility of this type of connection. I have used this to hold bronze bushing material in steel or in aluminum gear blanks when making gears and wanting the bearing surface to be a permanent part.

Anyhow other folks here like racerone know way more than I do. Take their advise before even considering mine.

Edit....
I tried two different cheapo Amazon rebuild kits.... waste of money and time. Sierra ok... oem best in this case in my opinion. If you used knock off parts before going nuclear on your tt I would rebuild with OEM or Sierra parts and see what happens.
Thank you for replying; that sleeve inside the main tilt tube is supposed to be pulled out and has O-rings to replace with some special Johnson tool that is hard to find. I think I'll just get this running and then hope it works. If not, and that sleeve Oring is crucial, then I need to find a used one on Ebay and do this all over.
 
Last edited:

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,620
That a Showa power trim unit and sleeves are friction fitted. I have never seen the sleeves for sale.This trim is also used on Yammy, Suzuki,Honda Tohatsu Nissian motors
 

GSX455

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 21, 2016
Messages
157
I’ve rebuilt and replaced all of the seals and now the trim pump won’t run. It ran before the rebuild. The relays click but nothing, replace motor next?
 

GSX455

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 21, 2016
Messages
157
Correction; cleaned contacts in relays and the pump runs, and the trim rods will still not raise the motor
 

ONERCBOATER!

Seaman
Joined
Oct 25, 2022
Messages
57
Pump runs ... are the hydraulic seals cheap aftermarket aka ebay or Amazon or OEM? I mean no disparagment towards you in this question.... but I have 1st hand knowledge that a lot of the aftermarket non sierra or OEM stuff isn't worth the plastic bag it came in. Not talking bout the o rings... but the actual hydraulic seals and rings. Also the poppets can leak and need replacement from time to time from my experience.


If someone tells you differently than I did...listen to them... I only have my personal non commercial experiences to go by...and though it be many engines and trims for many a friend...there are some extremely knowledgeable folks here that have probably forgotten more than I will ever know.
 

GSX455

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 21, 2016
Messages
157
I ordered a used Ebay tilt & trim that happened to be the same year and HP as mine. It works too! Is this a sensor switch? Mine is not plugged into anything. I could not find an unused plug on the wire harness for the boat. Anyone familiar with what this does? Thanks for all the replies; it was very helpful.
 

Attachments

  • Sender.JPG
    Sender.JPG
    67.2 KB · Views: 1

Crosbyman

Vice Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2006
Messages
5,025
some T&T have a upper limit switch in series with the UP button circuit to the up relay

the switch cuts power to the UP relay only when the engine is raised to high
leaving only the DOWN switch to work till raisedagain to the uppeer limit
..picture not clear ...

if it works don't fix anything :)
 
Top