98 Johnson leaking hydraulic fluid.

[racerone]

This comes under " lack " of maintenance.----Some screws on outboards must be moved once in a while to keep them from jamming with corrosion.----Even more important in salt water.------Screws can be dipped in a sealant to keep water out of the threads.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

I tried the slotted impact driver and it is not deep enough, and has partially stripped the slot. The long screwdriver, I can't get enough pressure.
I understand now why Johnson outboards went out of business.

They make a driver with longer bits at HF.

 

[GSX455]

Check the gasket or o-ring behind the mounting flange of the fluid reservoir.

I pulled the motor from the boat. This must tbe the O-ring you're talking about. The reservoir is the one in the middle image? The O-ring is held on with 3 screws? I can see a trail of old fluid on the left side of the image. Thanks!

 

[ONERCBOATER!]

I tried the slotted impact driver and it is not deep enough, and has partially stripped the slot. The long screwdriver, I can't get enough pressure.
I understand now why Johnson outboards went out of business.

I would suggest that you can't blame a manufacturer for failures or difficulties related to a lack of maintenance or wrong tool for the job.

You may get extra traction on the removal of the screw by fabricating or modifying or finding a heavy bodied steel rod that is long enough to easily reach the bolt and V shaped at the end a bit to stay put on the screw...then heating it red hot and heat cycling just the screw portion... but this is a last resort before drilling in my opinion.

Sean

 

[GSX455]

I pulled the motor from the boat. This must tbe the O-ring you're talking about. The reservoir is the one in the middle image? The O-ring is held on with 3 screws? I can see a trail of old fluid on the left side of the image. Thanks!

I would suggest that you can't blame a manufacturer for failures or difficulties related to a lack of maintenance or wrong tool for the job.

You may get extra traction on the removal of the screw by fabricating or modifying or finding a heavy bodied steel rod that is long enough to easily reach the bolt and V shaped at the end a bit to stay put on the screw...then heating it red hot and heat cycling just the screw portion... but this is a last resort before drilling in my opinion.

Sean

OK, point well taken. I managed to get a chisel blunted and it fit snug and popped open, with a little effort. Replacement set screws cost $90, so I'll be fixing this one. Thanks.
O-ring topic. this O-ring seems to fit in the well and has a square wall. I'm not sure a regular round cross section O-ring would work. Has anyone replaced one of these on a Johnson? Last resort silicone the whole mating surface? I did descale and lightly sand the surface or the pump and plastic reservoir.
I appreciate the advice and suggestions

 

[saltchuckmatt]

OK, point well taken. I managed to get a chisel blunted and it fit snug and popped open, with a little effort. Replacement set screws cost $90, so I'll be fixing this one. Thanks.
O-ring topic. this O-ring seems to fit in the well and has a square wall. I'm not sure a regular round cross section O-ring would work. Has anyone replaced one of these on a Johnson? Last resort silicone the whole mating surface? I did descale and lightly sand the surface or the pump and plastic reservoir.
I appreciate the advice and suggestions

Looks round to me so I don't understand.

 

[ONERCBOATER!]

Congratulations on getting the screw out!!!

you buy the rebuild kit?
p/n # 0434519 I believe is the oem number for your O-ring and seal kit...$90ish but all there...and that is a good thing if you in deep enough to have it partially apart go the full nine yards and have peace of mind when you put it back.


I just rebuilt a 2001 Johnny 40hp 2 smoker power trim a week or 3 ago.

I used an off-hand set originally and was very sorry I did that....I got to buy a sierra set and that did the trick....will stick with sierra and OEM from now on.

Sean

Edited because I wrote the world's dumbest sentance!

 

[Chris1956]

You can buy a new reservoir, cap, orings and screws for about $80. I just replaced my cap as it tended to cross thread. The new one ($20) works like new.

 

[dingbat]

I just rebuilt a 2001 Johnny 40hp 2 smoker power trim a week or 3 ago.

I used an off-hand set originally and was very sorry I did that....I got to buy a sierra set and that did the trick....will stick with sierra and OEM from now on.

I lean OE for sheet gaskets but there is nothing special about o-rings.

Diameters and cross sections are standardized. Fluid compatibility charts will point you to the right material for the application

Just bought a set of six (6) orings for the injector pump on my diesel tractor. OE set was $36 + S&H. Paid $4.50 for the same set of orings at local bearing and transmission house.

 

[racerone]

Local hardware store / small engine shop might have that o-ring for $1

 

[GSX455]

Congratulations on getting the screw out!!!

you buy the rebuild kit?
p/n # 0434519 I believe is the oem number for your O-ring and seal kit...$90ish but all there...and that is a good thing if you in deep enough to have it partially apart go the full nine yards and have peace of mind when you put it back.


I just rebuilt a 2001 Johnny 40hp 2 smoker power trim a week or 3 ago.

I used an off-hand set originally and was very sorry I did that....I got to buy a sierra set and that did the trick....will stick with sierra and OEM from now on.

Sean

Edited because I wrote the world's dumbest sentance!

No screwdriver I owned was thick enough, and luckily the chisel fit into a 5/16" socket, Now I know to maintain it, I had just bought the motor a little over a year ago. I'm guessing the prior owner did not do this. Thanks for the O-ring part #.

 

[GSX455]

Are you talking about the tilt tube on the starboard side that goes into the tilt bracket?

When you can't get grease in any of the fittings.... it's a real chore. Usually need to pull stuff apart and clean.

They sell a little tool that you put oil in and then hit it with a hammer and it's supposed to clear it out. I have two of them and have NEVER been successful. Also, you can't heat them because there is plastic bushings in there.

To get this tube out, I've tried using a block of wood and hitting the threaded end to remove and lubricate. No luck, has anyone done this? I can get grease on the starboard side, but not the port side, it just oozes out of the new zirc fitting.

 

[racerone]

Take the load of that tube.----Take bolts out of transom.----Lift motor 1/2"

 

[saltchuckmatt]

To get this tube out, I've tried using a block of wood and hitting the threaded end to remove and lubricate. No luck, has anyone done this? I can get grease on the starboard side, but not the port side, it just oozes out of the new zirc fitting.

Here's what your up against.
Enjoy.

 

[GSX455]

Here's what your up against.
Enjoy.

I got the tube out! It took a weekend, but I used dry ice/acetone sludge and made a funnel and pushed in the tube with a dowel. Then I heated the frame with a torch and used a bolt with washers inside the tube to pound it out with a sledge.
the inside of the frame was corroded so I sanded it down and smeared grease inside and slid the tube back.
Next challenge, the last two images. how do you lubricate the large pivot tube to keep the motor turning easily left to right? I don't see any grease fittings nearby.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[Chris1956]

My '98 Johnny 150HPV6 has a grease fitting under the manual tilt lock. That is for the steering swivel. Yo need ti tilt the motor and swing the manual lock down to get to it.

It also has 2 grease fittings on the tilt tube.

 

[GSX455]

My '98 Johnny 150HPV6 has a grease fitting under the manual tilt lock. That is for the steering swivel. Yo need ti tilt the motor and swing the manual lock down to get to it.

It also has 2 grease fittings on the tilt tube.

Thanks Chris1956. The grease fittings on the tilt tube, only one on the right has grease go through. I might drill out the left one so grease makes it into the tube. I think that's what caused the tilt tube to seize in the first place

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Thanks Chris1956. The grease fittings on the tilt tube, only one on the right has grease go through. I might drill out the left one so grease makes it into the tube. I think that's what caused the tilt tube to seize in the first place

Grease doesn't go into the tube....it goes around the outside of the tube and around the bushing.

They do make upgrades, a stainless tube and a nut with a grease fitting in it so you can periodically grease inside the tube.

 

[Chris1956]

Grease fittings usually unscrew. You can buy replacements as well.

 

[GSX455]

Grease fittings usually unscrew. You can buy replacements as well.

The grease fitting in there is the replacement. I need to remove the bushing or drill out the grease fitting because the grease was dried out when I bought the motor. Yeah, I know I should have checked that; now I know for next time.