97 5.7 LX, A 2 GEN 2 drive questions

[AKJohne]

Several questions;
Replacing the water pump on the motor (FWC), what type of sealant should I use on the gasket/s?

I am resealing the lower unit and cannot remove the seal carrier (input shaft) as described in the book, do they normally come off unscathed or is just a matter of sacrificing the carrier to reseal?

If I am resealing the lower, should I reseal the upper gear housing while I am at it? It looks more difficult.... there are no "ah-hah" there the leak on the drive, however this last season I added fluid several times. I believe these seals are original from 97, however the drive sat in storage inside for many years is relatively low (350) hours....

I think while I am at It will remove bell housing and replace bellows, shift cable, hose etc...

 

[AKJohne]

A few more pics

 

[AKJohne]

Last two, there is some cracking in the exhaust bellows

 

[alldodge]

Use 2 screw drivers to remove seal


The drive needs to be pressured tested to find leaks. There is a sticky in the Adults Only section on how to

The bellows are old and since your going this far I would replace them

 

[Rick Stephens]

The seal carrier should pop up fairly easy. If it doesn't, is not an expensive part, so don't worry about it. Two phillips screwdrivers should do it.

Absolutely replace bellows and lower shift cable.

Pressure testing is more important than willy nilly choosing what seals should be replaced. The only hard parts on resealing an upper is getting the input seal behind the yoke can require redoing the rolling torque on the bearing pack. Requires a torque gauge most people don't own. I bought one for ~$140 and have used it all of twice to set rolling torque on drives. Was still cheaper solution for me than that asked by the one sorta local shop, 75 miles away, that wanted $450 to reseal an upper.

Pressure testing is really the key to successful maintenance of the drive.

 

[AKJohne]

Thanks for the replies, will review how to pressure test. Advice on sealant for the water pump to engine block.?

 

[Bondo]

Thanks for the replies, will review how to pressure test. Advice on sealant for the water pump to engine block.?

Ayuh,....... Just the gaskets should do,.....

If you insist, use alittle Perfect Seal, or Permatex #3, which is the same thing,.....

 

[QBhoy]

Just get a gasket set. Jobs a good un’

 

[AKJohne]

Just get a gasket set. Jobs a good un’

Which part of the job are you referring to....?

 

[QBhoy]

Which part of the job are you referring to....?

All of it. There’s gasket sets for the most of it.

 

[AKJohne]

All of it. There’s gasket sets for the most of it.

Guessing I am confused... I have a gasket set and a lower seal kit.
I will need to assemble the lower unit to the gear housing to test it, not a big deal. Is it possible to test in place if one clamps off the line to the remote reservoir...? Mostly for future reference.

Concerning sealants, I have learned form past mistakes not to use too much of the wrong thing... and since Quicksilver products are not on the shelf around here, thought I would ask what to use in place of perfect seal. I think I have some #3 on the shelf.

The seal carrier does not want to come off as shown in the book, in fact I bent a cheap screwdriver in the process...

 

[QBhoy]

I’ve never pressure tested a drive after putting back on for minor maintenance.
not advising against it. The guys that have said it above know more than I about it all. I’ve maybe just been lucky.
just watch the gear oil header line. Should be ok. Most of any damage done to this Is whilst removing

 

[Rick Stephens]

I’ve never pressure tested a drive after putting back on for minor maintenance.
not advising against it. The guys that have said it above know more than I about it all. I’ve maybe just been lucky.
just watch the gear oil header line. Should be ok. Most of any damage done to this Is whilst removing

Just to enhance the conversation... once I built a pressure tester for the outdrive, which cost was basically a decent gauge as I had enough 'stuff' around for everything else, I have used said tester 3 or 4 times on my current drive - pretty much any time I did any maintenance that involved a seal or a component with a seal in it on the drive. It has been an invaluable source of 'completion' to any job as I *know* I got the seals all in correctly and *** won't leak net season. From a peace of mind standpoint, worth a lot more than I spent on it. Since I built it I have never had water in my drive again. I have found a couple of times minor leaks from fishing line burning a seal and once a seal that just wore out behind the u-joints. It was the best tool I got for my boat and it cost me a few PVV fittings, the cost of a gauge and a schrader valve I already had in the tool box.

 

[AKJohne]

just watch the gear oil header line. Should be ok. Most of any damage done to this Is whilst removing

Is this the line from the bell housing to the gimbal housing? If so I had planned to replace that while I have it apart.

 

[achris]

I’ve never pressure tested a drive after putting back on for minor maintenance.
not advising against it. ....

Same. Only pressure test if I'm looking for a leak, or after I've replaced a seal that was leaking. 'Standard' maintenance (water pump Impeller etc), just gets pout back together and filled with oil...

Guessing I am confused... I have a gasket set and a lower seal kit.
I will need to assemble the lower unit to the gear housing to test it, not a big deal. Is it possible to test in place if one clamps off the line to the remote reservoir...? Mostly for future reference.

I guess you could clamp that hose, but pulling the drive is a very quick job, and you're looking for a leak, and being about to see (and hear) inside the exhaust cavity and at the front of the drive will make things easier. ie, just pull the drive.

You can cover the oil passage hole (next to the water pump) and then do your pressure test. (done plenty like that)

Concerning sealants, I have learned form past mistakes not to use too much of the wrong thing... and since Quicksilver products are not on the shelf around here, thought I would ask what to use in place of perfect seal. I think I have some #3 on the shelf.

Any non-hardening sealer will do.

The seal carrier does not want to come off as shown in the book, in fact I bent a cheap screwdriver in the process...

Break it up and pull the bits out. I've had to do that a few times.

Chris...

 

[AKJohne]

Same. Only pressure test if I'm looking for a leak, or after I've replaced a seal that was leaking. 'Standard' maintenance (water pump Impeller etc), just gets pout back together and filled with oil...



I guess you could clamp that hose, but pulling the drive is a very quick job, and you're looking for a leak, and being about to see (and hear) inside the exhaust cavity and at the front of the drive will make things easier. ie, just pull the drive.

You can cover the oil passage hole (next to the water pump) and then do your pressure test. (done plenty like that)



Any non-hardening sealer will do.



Break it up and pull the bits out. I've had to do that a few times.

Chris...

Thanks Chris, I am looking for a leak and it was time to check alignment, change bellows...etc, went through a small amount of drive lube last season... I never wrote down how much or how often, but had to top it up several times.... it is 20 plus years old and I think all the seals are original and figured it was time to be proactive on maintenance. I would rather avoid doing repairs in the summer....Its a good theory anyway....!

 

[achris]

Yeah, at that age, I'd be doing a full reseal. Do a pressure test first just so you know it is a seal, and which one, but still go ahead with doing all of them. Also, at that age, you may need to get 'up close and personal' with a local seller of Speedie-sleeves. Some of your shafts may be grooved, so be on the look out for that too...

Chris.........

 

[AKJohne]

Yeah, at that age, I'd be doing a full reseal. Do a pressure test first just so you know it is a seal, and which one, but still go ahead with doing all of them. Also, at that age, you may need to get 'up close and personal' with a local seller of Speedie-sleeves. Some of your shafts may be grooved, so be on the look out for that too...

Chris.........

I will inspect the sealing areas on the shafts, and likely replace the needle bearing in the carrier as a matter of course, but maybe not necessary..?
I think there are about 500-600 hours on the outdrive and everything looks to be in excellent shape, the lube was clean and some small particles on the magnet, what I would consider normal. I usually catch some in a clean container and then pour thru a paint funnel looking for metal, none present. The only part of it that is a bit of a concern is the upper gear case, that looks to be a bit more involved and probaly have to buy a bearing retainer spanner.

 

[achris]

...and likely replace the needle bearing in the carrier as a matter of course, but maybe not necessary..?
I think there are about 500-600 hours on the outdrive...

Yeah, why? If the propshaft bearing surface is good, and there's no lateral movement in the shaft, leave them be. 600 hours isn't that much. Those drives are pretty solid, and baring external causes, are good for at least 2,000 hours.

The only part of it that is a bit of a concern is the upper gear case, that looks to be a bit more involved and probably have to buy a bearing retainer spanner.

Iboats has those spanners at a good price. If you've pulled the gear housing apart, then you'll find the drive-shaft housing easy.... The only thing you will come up against is the setting of the rolling torque for the drive gear bearing pack. That needs to be done properly (see my video) and you need to be doing that as to replace the front seal, you need to disassemble that bearing pack...

Chris.............

 

[AKJohne]

If you've pulled the gear housing apart, then you'll find the drive-shaft housing easy.......

Chris.............

I assume you are referring to the lower gear housing, please excuse if not using the proper terms. If so, I have not pulled that apart yet, will pressure test first as suggested... and I was assuming I could reseal that w/o disassembling? Remove seal and needle bearing carrier at the prop shaft, remove seal carrier at the input shaft and reseal at shift shaft assembly... am I missing something...?