96 Evinrude 50 Cutting Out

Rob406

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 11, 2012
Messages
159
Likely it was NOT an ignition issue.----See trouble shooting in post #12 !-----These tips seem odd to some folks but these are proven NO MONEY WASTED steps in finding the culprit !
Thanks racerone i think of all the suggestions in post #12 i havent verified is the fuel pump diaphragm so i will look into that. Cylinder compression is good, but i do not know to test/verify crankcase compression?
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
37,815
Test run with another tank and hose.-----I can not see or touch your motor.----It should be simple to determine what is wrong !----What are the actual cylinder compression values ?
 

Rob406

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 11, 2012
Messages
159
Test run with another tank and hose.-----I can not see or touch your motor.----It should be simple to determine what is wrong !----What are the actual cylinder compression values ?
Both holes are 150 psi. Just tested now. I dont have a spare tank on hand I can try so I will have to see if I can borrow one. But the line is 1 year old Sierra replacement all the way to the tank. The tank itself is semi-built in but I was able to remove it last year and dumped the fuel and thoroughly cleaned everything. The pickup tube has a mesh screen on it which was cleaned as well.
 

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Rob406

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 11, 2012
Messages
159
You need an exorcism.

It's going to end up with something dumb....
Wonderful…
Wondering if its something to do with some type of heat soak issue. Not sure if I’ll be able to get it back out this year or not.
 

Rob406

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 11, 2012
Messages
159
Well i was not able to get the boat back on the water, unless by chance one of these up coming weekends is very nice out (not likely) but i did read on the cdi troubleshooting page some interesting info. Heat sensor wire ran near plug wire can cause rf interference. Can also be faulty heat sensor. So the answer is yes this boat does have a limp mode also known as s.l.o.w. Another thing that can cause rf interference is not using oem plugs (champions) which i was not (ngks). Heat sensor can be tested by unplugging it. I need to get on the water to try this but i am optimistic. Also wondering if i have a sticky thermostat. I will install a new one to be safe. I did pull the flywheel to check underneath and everything looks fine. I have not done any troubleshooting as i need to be on the water for this, also need an adapter for my multimeter. But the symptoms right now point towards the heat sensor area.
 

airshot

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jul 22, 2008
Messages
5,080
If your new fuel hose is made of the gray vinyl hose material that could be an issue. They are junk and only last a year, the inside comes apart and slows/ stops the fuel flow. Just food for thought .....
 

Rob406

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 11, 2012
Messages
159
If your new fuel hose is made of the gray vinyl hose material that could be an issue. They are junk and only last a year, the inside comes apart and slows/ stops the fuel flow. Just food for thought .....
The new hose is grey but it was my understanding that the new gray stuff is no longer problematic.
 

airshot

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jul 22, 2008
Messages
5,080
The new hose is grey but it was my understanding that the new gray stuff is no longer problematic.
Hopefully you are right, but can't say I have heard that...I buy premium fuel hose and put my own quality fittings on to be safe and secure.
 

saltchuckmatt

Commander
Joined
Jul 19, 2019
Messages
2,638
I stopped using the gray hose quite a while ago but they last more than a year. When it first came out I was told it was ethanol resistant. I do not believe that to be true. The clear coating or intertube is what seems to fail causing plugging of the internal fuel passages.

The black rubber hose is coast guard approved and as far as I know is the only acceptable under and closed up space.
 

ct1762@gmail.com

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 17, 2019
Messages
859
just FYI this is why the manual has you use a power pack LOAD tester to rule out any issues under way. ive seen motors spark fine when turning over, but pack breaks down under load. combined with terminal extenders to each coil, you can rule out those 2 important parts. to test the diode in the harness is very very easy on those deutsch connector models just follow your manual and put your meter to its diode test setting! a bad fuel pump is easy to rule out as well. what happens when an assistant pumps the bulb by hand? if the bogging goes away = rebuild kit.
 
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