96 Evinrude 50 Cutting Out

[Rob406]

You just need a spark gap jump tool. Like this.

Duralast Adjustable Ignition Spark

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Thanks I do own one. Worried i will get a “false reading” as it only acts up under a load. Going to give it a shot tho. What should the tool gap be set at?

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Not exactly sure but at least 3/8 and should be a nice blue spark.

 

[Rob406]

Not exactly sure but at least 3/8 and should be a nice blue spark.

Ok thanks i will report back

 

[racerone]

??????-----You use the gap testing tool to test maximum ignition output.-----Spark is generated by the spinning flywheel.-----Has nothing to do with " load "-----And if it can jump 1/2" gap there is nothing wrong with ignition.----Focus on other areas of motor basics.

 

[Rob406]

??????-----You use the gap testing tool to test maximum ignition output.-----Spark is generated by the spinning flywheel.-----Has nothing to do with " load "-----And if it can jump 1/2" gap there is nothing wrong with ignition.----Focus on other areas of motor basics.

I have seen on mx bikes (coil on cap type) where bike will run fine until put under a load (1/2 or more throttle driving in gear) and bike falls on its face. This is what led me to believe coil. No i did not think a spark gap tool would capture this as i mentioned above but i will try it as its worth a shot. I think a torn diaphragm would present itself in all ranges of power, certainly wouldn’t “come out of it at times”. I will try everything that is mentioned. again the intermittent nature of what i can best describe as a “limp mode” is what i am dealing with. I am suprised nobody has mentioned Power Pack. Seems to fit the description. Unfortunately it will be a few days until i can get to it. I appreicate the help. Just brainstorming here. I agree with the basics.

 

[racerone]

Then run with timing light hooked up 1 cylinder at a time.----See if spark is steady at all RPM.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Did you try pulling one spark plug wire while it was running? If you pull one and it dies that means that's a good cylinder but the other one wouldn't hold up so the other one's junk. If you pull one and it stays running then you most likely have the bad one. So it could be the coil or it could be the power pack.

Once you do the coil test then you change coils and see if the problem follows problem follows it's the coil it doesn't follow and it's a power pack.

Spark jump test will tell you all of that in one move

 

[Rob406]

Did you try pulling one spark plug wire while it was running? If you pull one and it dies that means that's a good cylinder but the other one wouldn't hold up so the other one's junk. If you pull one and it stays running then you most likely have the bad one. So it could be the coil or it could be the power pack.

Once you do the coil test then you change coils and see if the problem follows problem follows it's the coil it doesn't follow and it's a power pack.

Spark jump test will tell you all of that in one move

Saltchuckmatt what I am saying is i can only get it to “limp” when under a load. Meaning in gear, in the water, full speed ahead. I did not know of a way to spark jump test while cruising down the lake. Is it possible?

 

[Rob406]

Then run with timing light hooked up 1 cylinder at a time.----See if spark is steady at all RPM.

This I can do. Sounds like i may need to launch the boat to do it?

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Jump test is done at home.

Outboards are set up to run under load, they all run good in the driveway. All the problems arise when you stick them in the water.

You sound frustrated....might want to take a brake.

 

[Rob406]

Jump test is done at home.

Outboards are set up to run under load, they all run good in the driveway. All the problems arise when you stick them in the water.

You sound frustrated....might want to take a brake.

Not frusturated, just need to replicate the limp in order to diagnose. Some of these suggestions will yield nothing in the driveway as “it revs up fine in neutral”. I do appreciate the help, i have most of these tools so i will see what i come up with.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Not frusturated, just need to replicate the limp in order to diagnose. Some of these suggestions will yield nothing in the driveway as “it revs up fine in neutral”. I do appreciate the help, i have most of these tools so i will see what i come up with.

It will rev fine in the drive with a week spark....hence the jump test.

Your probably right, something else.

Best of luck

 

[Rob406]

It will rev fine in the drive with a week spark....hence the jump test.

Your probably right, something else.

Best of luck

Saltchuckmatt, after reading this post i understand what you are saying about the jump test. Unfortunately I am bombed at work for the next few days (hence the pre emptive brainstorming). I will let you all know what I find asap. Thanks again

 

[cyclops222]

The Spark Jump Tester devices...........Are testing in AIR ONLY.
Not the high pressures of a cylinder while running. Color and the INTENSITY of the spark across the larger air gap can be deceiving.
I like a LOUD ...SNAP .....like a small lightning arc. Are what I like to see and hear.
The Timing light is very helpful about the TIMING of when the spark occurs. It really does not state how...POWERFUL ... the arc is inside the cylinder. A very sensitive one compared to a not sensitive Timing Light ? May or may not show the arc in the running cylinder ?
I really like the causing a short circuit in the H V rubber boot while the engine is running UNDER a W O T speed run. Best test to me if 1 or more cylinders are in trouble. Then go from there.

 

[Rob406]

Wondering if i should throw a power pack at it…. The motor is 28 years old. For ~$200 for a power pack and a coil would pay itself off in the weekend of messing around with it in the last remaining weekends of summer …

 

[cyclops222]

I did exactly that with my LAST ..N O S in boxes this spring. Those 2 items and the thermostat and 1 heat range hotter sparkplug than a standard. Has done wonders. Like a great running new engine.
Cost of parts beats a new crummy running engine.

 

[jonesg]

Not frusturated, just need to replicate the limp in order to diagnose. Some of these suggestions will yield nothing in the driveway as “it revs up fine in neutral”. I do appreciate the help, i have most of these tools so i will see what i come up with.

weak ignition on a cyl will show up just by feeling the heads with your hand.

just because you can't trip limp mode in the driveway doesn't mean you can't detect the cause.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Good advice. I plan on using that method.....throw the IR gun away!

 

[Rob406]

Well i finally got the boat back out after the new coil, power pack and missing linkage rollers. Ran great around the lake. Shut it off for 10 or 15 minutes to eat. Then when we took back off, bam, it did it again. This is EXACTLY what it always does. After a hot lap or two around the lake, shutting it off for 15 minutes then taking off again it will do it within a minute or two. We limped back to the dock and called it a day. It does sort of seem like a missing cylinder but i do not believe this to be the case. Any ideas short of tearing it all apart??

 

[racerone]

Likely it was NOT an ignition issue.----See trouble shooting in post #12 !-----These tips seem odd to some folks but these are proven NO MONEY WASTED steps in finding the culprit !