96 Bayliner 2050 - The Dirty Rotten Baystard

SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
Joined
Mar 8, 2017
Messages
1,725
Well, I was hoping to have worked more on the boat in the last couple weeks, but as life goes, it just didn't happen... tonight I got in a good 45 min to an hour of grinding... my first session. I gotta be honest, minus the 10 lbs of water weight I lost in sweat in my tyvek suit, I actually kinda enjoyed it... since I was we'll prepared I'm not itchy at all and it feels good to start to see a clean slate of a hull... but I definitely have a ways to go!


Any progress is good progress!!!! I know about that thing called life..... It sucks sometimes when it gets in the way of the important stuff. LOL
 

AShipShow

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 8, 2016
Messages
1,792
No Title

Well, last night I took advantage of the nice weather and got a couple hours in my tyvek suit. I was able to cut down all the tabbing and fiberglass bumps as close to the hull as I could with my angle grinder with a cutoff wheel. I wanted to cut as much as I could instead of grinding to keep that step to a minimum. I was also able to deskin the transom and remove all the wood back to the hull. Wow, was that thing soaking wet. I actually cut a few lines across the transom towards the bottom and water actually dripped out from the cuts.

So I guess the good news is, everything is done to prep for grinding, the bad news is, everything is done to prep for grinding so that means thats whats next. I'm hoping for another day or so of nice weather. It was mid 70s and low humidity last night and I still was soaked to the bone in sweat. Can't wait to get past that step and start rebuilding!
 

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Bktech

Recruit
Joined
May 2, 2013
Messages
4
Just checked out your pictures, man good progress. How do you plan to redo the front bow boxes? I noticed you left the top piece that also is the shelf under the cooler/ glove box and under steering wheel. Seems almost impossible to replace that without pulling the cap to do it right.

Keep up the good work and thanks for all the photos, they will be handy reference when I start the this project.
 

Slager

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 30, 2014
Messages
189
Nice! Be careful with those cut off wheels, I had one shatter and puncture my arm. Fortunately the tyvek kept it from getting in too far. They sure do make quick work of the lips and edges though. Grinding is pretty much always bad. I did it for several days a couple weeks ago, in the high eighties here and it was terrible. I could only go about an hour before overheating. Good luck.
 

AShipShow

Lieutenant Commander
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Jul 8, 2016
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So last night i popped my grinding cherry. I got about 2 hours in on the bow section. Its a SLOOOOOOOW go up there cuz there are some areas that have tons of glass. I figured if I got that over with first the back of the boat would be faster. While grinding through some of the thick stuff I actually found some thin wood strips that were bedded in the glass. They don't look thick enough to really do anything important, but I'm hoping the gurus can chime in and reassure me that they aren't providing any structure... The only thing I can think of is maybe they put them in the strakes to just act as a filler so they didn't need to fill it with resin??? Just a guess... Also, do I need to grind down the woven roving or can I just stop once I'm down to clean resin? I attached a picture of those wood strips...

BKtech - I plan to build the bow boxes AFTER i have the deck down. They were originally integral to the bulkheads and stringers but thats too much work in my opinion to try and replicate that. It seems easier in my mind to have a flat plane to reference from. For the shelf under the cooler, I plan to cut that out and not put it back actually... I'm planning to support the cap in that section by the vertical pieces that will make up part of the bow boxes. Those shelves seem kind of pointless to me anyways, they are super deep and have a very small opening, its like they expect you to store small sheets of plywood under there lol...My plan is to make a small box behind the openings but leave the rest open, that will also make it easier to get to the radio, gauges, etc in the future. As far as I can tell, the only way to get to that stuff right now is to take the cap off?? unless the gauges come out from the front.

20170628_222934.jpg
 
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AShipShow

Lieutenant Commander
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So its been a while since I got a chance to continue grinding, partly because its been so hot and humid I'm lacking the motivation to put all that crap on lol. Anyways, I manned up last night and got a couple hours in and got the bow area finished up minus the little bit of deck I left for elevation reference. Its going much slower than I would have hoped but mainly only because I'm having to grind out a lot of resin to get those wood strips out in the strakes, but slow and steady wins the race right!
 

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SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
Joined
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Messages
1,725
So its been a while since I got a chance to continue grinding, partly because its been so hot and humid I'm lacking the motivation to put all that crap on lol. Anyways, I manned up last night and got a couple hours in and got the bow area finished up minus the little bit of deck I left for elevation reference. Its going much slower than I would have hoped but mainly only because I'm having to grind out a lot of resin to get those wood strips out in the strakes, but slow and steady wins the race right!


Its snowing in July!!!!!!

Keep up the hard work. You will be cruising in no time.
 

Baylinerchuck

Commander
Joined
Jul 29, 2016
Messages
2,726
So its been a while since I got a chance to continue grinding, partly because its been so hot and humid I'm lacking the motivation to put all that crap on lol. Anyways, I manned up last night and got a couple hours in and got the bow area finished up minus the little bit of deck I left for elevation reference. Its going much slower than I would have hoped but mainly only because I'm having to grind out a lot of resin to get those wood strips out in the strakes, but slow and steady wins the race right!

Those little wood strips are a nightmare. My Chap had those in every strake. I deleted them all and reinforced those areas with glass reinforced resin and 1708. Be careful, those strake areas are very thin. A reciprocating tool works well, but you through a lot of blades. Looking good thus far, nice work.
 

AShipShow

Lieutenant Commander
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Jul 8, 2016
Messages
1,792
What are you grinding with?

A HF 4 1/2" angle grinder with 36 grit wheels. The iboats standard lol

Those little wood strips are a nightmare. My Chap had those in every strake. I deleted them all and reinforced those areas with glass reinforced resin and 1708. Be careful, those strake areas are very thin. A reciprocating tool works well, but you through a lot of blades.

Yea, they are definitely a pain. I'm trying to be careful in these areas, I just grind down through all the dry chop strand until I hit the roving and if I don't get rid of every last bit of dry chop I'm sure its okay, because I will most likely be going over the strakes with either PB or 1708 like you said. Plus theres no way these wood pieces were doing anything at all structurally, Each one was only like 12" long so it was definitely there as a filler.
 

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
11,527
A HF 4 1/2" angle grinder with 36 grit wheels. The iboats standard lol

​Just don't use the flap wheels, they're very slow. You can also use the cutoff wheel in that grinder, just cut along each edge and pull the wood out.
 

AShipShow

Lieutenant Commander
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I'm not using what I know as a flap wheel... I'm using these...
2FXG5_AW99.jpg
Not these...

index.jpg
 

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
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Apr 6, 2005
Messages
11,527
That's a flap wheel, they're very slow, get regular discs and you cut a great deal of time off the job.

Use this type of disc

GT_488Z827_00.jpg
 
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Grub54891

Admiral
Joined
Jun 17, 2012
Messages
6,078
I used a regular grinder, till I got most of the way down, then switched to the flap wheel, it smooth everything out for laying new glass nicely.
 

AShipShow

Lieutenant Commander
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Hmmm I suppose I can give those a try.. I already have some, I was just under the impression everyone used flap wheels...
 

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
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Apr 6, 2005
Messages
11,527
Nobody that works with fiberglass for a living uses flap discs, they're just too slow, they work much better on metal, there are some people on this site that like them, and for a rookie they may not be a bad choice. Regular discs remove material quickly, sometimes too quick for someone without much experience and doing a relatively small repair, so the amount time grinding is small, and you can't make mistakes as easily, but if you're doing a bunch of grinding the regular discs work much better.
 
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AShipShow

Lieutenant Commander
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Well, I'm sick of the weather dictating when I can work on this thing... I already have enough things getting in the way, but no more! Bam! No more sun on my back and no more wet hull that takes a day to dry out! Time to finish this thing up!
 

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Bayou Dave

Lieutenant Commander
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Dec 13, 2012
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Well, I'm sick of the weather dictating when I can work on this thing... I already have enough things getting in the way, but no more! Bam! No more sun on my back and no more wet hull that takes a day to dry out! Time to finish this thing up!

Smart move!
 

SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
Joined
Mar 8, 2017
Messages
1,725
Well, I'm sick of the weather dictating when I can work on this thing... I already have enough things getting in the way, but no more! Bam! No more sun on my back and no more wet hull that takes a day to dry out! Time to finish this thing up!


Is that a HF canopy I see? :D

Guessing you tied it down after you took the picture?
 

AShipShow

Lieutenant Commander
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Yup... started to rain so got it up just in time!

Ps... got another late night session in.. only 4 ft left on the hull and then the transom! I can smell the end.... I might even have to.... dare I say it... order supplies!?!
 
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