94 Bass Stelath VIP SX180 Rebuild

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Newbie to the site. After searching and not finding the exact information needed I figured I would ask and see what results I get. Sorry in advance if this information is already out there.

I just bought a 1994 Bass Stealth by VIP Model SX-180. On my drive home after a weekend in Toledo Bend I unpleasantly found the jackplate separating from the transom. I brought it to a few places for opinions and it was determined the transom needs to be rebuilt.

I have removed the motor and everything else to expose the transom (haven't cut the boat yet). I recently rebuilt an aluminum transom (wood and aluminum) on a 15' allweld which wasn't hard at all, And came out great.

Now I have to decide if this is something I want to do myself or pay someone with experience.

I haven't being successful at finding specific information about this boat.

Some of my questions are:

1. Does anyone have insight and/or photos on how to remove the deck/cap of a bass boat. I know the top is screwed (not riveted) and the top of the transom is glassed but what other connection points are there before the deck and be separated from the hull.

2. Can the deck be lift off using the dock cleats (4 total)

3. I have read a lot regarding three main types of rebuild.
a. wood - (cheapest but my concern is the potential for future rot)
b. composite (not a lot of luck finding a direct replacement for plywood)
c. pourable composite (seams very pricey and I don't like how people don't tie the knee braces to the transom using the dig out and fill method.

I am not afraid of the fiber glass work, what scares me more is separating the deck (cap) and hull then putting it back together.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Re: 94 Bass Stelath VIP SX180 Rebuild

Welcome to iBoats!

Lots of Transom Replacement threads on the forum for bass boats. At the bottom of your thread you'll find 5 and then when you go to those you'll find even more. That will get you started. Most have pics. If you post pics of yours you'll get a lot better response. Your cap is held on by screws and or rivets that are hidden beneath the rubber bump rail. Remove the rubber and you'll fine em. Remove the screws or drill out the rivets. It may also have been fiberglassed to the hull at various spots. If so you'll need to chisel or cut it free. I'd recommend lifting it at the stern and bow and sliding a 2x4 underneath and then lifting it with that. It'll way close to 400 lbs. Wouldn't trust those cleats with that amount of weight. If you use ext. grade plywood and properly encase it with resin and glass and then maintain and care for the transom properly, it'll last for 3-4 decades. That should be plenty long enuf!!!

Open a Free Photobucket account, upload your pics and then use the IMG code to copy and paste your pics to iBoats.

Looking forward to following your project.

 
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Re: 94 Bass Stelath VIP SX180 Rebuild

Thanks Woodonglass, I have searched a lot and will continue searching. My work computer has photobucket blocked but hopefully I will have some time after work soon to get some pictures up. I will have to look at home maybe that is why I can not see pictures in many of the other threads I have read through.
 
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Re: 94 Bass Stelath VIP SX180 Rebuild

Finally getting the opportunity to create a Photobucket account. Here are some of the pictures of the 94 sx180. Everyone is telling me the boat is worth fixing now it is just a matter of do I spend the 3k and pay someone or fix it myself.

94 SX180 Photos by duhon_j | Photobucket

I hope this works - I will post it and then check to make sure.
 
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Re: 94 Bass Stelath VIP SX180 Rebuild

Here are some of the photos


The boat still has a great shine and the gellcoat is in excellant sjape with only a small section on the bow that has worn gelcoat





You can see the bottom of the jack plate has crushed into the outside glass about 1/8" on both sides


here you can see the knee brace fiberglass work wasn't very good from the factory
 
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Re: 94 Bass Stelath VIP SX180 Rebuild

Any insight for plywood?

Marine Grade ($80 ea) (not readily available), BC Exterior Grade ($35 ea), or Birch ($50 ea). Pro and cons of one verses the other. I know Ext Grade and Birch are right up the street at just about any hardware/lumber store
 

jbcurt00

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Re: 94 Bass Stelath VIP SX180 Rebuild

Interior birch plywood or exterior? It must be made w/ waterproof glue & rated for exterior exposure, NOT cabinet grade plywood
 
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Re: 94 Bass Stelath VIP SX180 Rebuild

Thanks jbcurt00 - that makes sense. I was thinking about the typical cabinet grade birch thinking it may be a better quality, but I wasn't thinking about the different glue in the exterior plywood.

So I guess it really just boils down to what is the a big advantage (if any) of using marine grade (+$50/sheet) over exterior BC grade. at about 2.25 times the cost is it worth it.

With my limited knowledge it doesn't matter what type of plywood if it gets wet it will rot. Seams more important to properly seal the transom and as long as you use exterior grade plywood then it should be good.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 94 Bass Stelath VIP SX180 Rebuild

You could also go to a Lumber Yard, NOT, Lowe's or HD, but a real Lumber Yard and see if they have MDO, NOT MDF, MDO or if they could order it. It's great for transoms, decks, and stringers, uses 100% waterproof glue is already coated with resin so it saves you on resin. It's used in the exterior sign business all the time. A bit more pricey than regular plywood but usually cheaper than Marine grade. Check it out...http://bluelinxco.com/Portals/0/docs/LiteratureLibrary/Structural Panels/APA HDO and MDO Plywood.pdf
 
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Re: 94 Bass Stelath VIP SX180 Rebuild

Thanks, I will check out the MDO/HDO also. There are so many options. I don't want to cut corners where I shouldn't but I just hadn't determined marine plywood is needed. I even had a local boat restoration guy tell me he uses BC exterior on his rebuilds.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 94 Bass Stelath VIP SX180 Rebuild

BC Ext. Is Not my choice due to inferior wood used in it's manufacture. It does use waterproof glue but it has a lot of voids in the laminations and poor wood. I'd avoid using it if it were me.;)
 

GT1000000

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Re: 94 Bass Stelath VIP SX180 Rebuild

Howdy 94,
Welcome to the dry dock...
That is one nice looking bass boat...fast looking design...hope you do it justice and restore it right...
The knowledge base around this forum should be able to answer any questions you throw at it...
As far as plywood, the guys have given you some good advice so far...
Another possibility, if you can get it in your area is AC Fir ply...usually about 3/4 the price of Marine Grade and pretty good quality...
I would definitely stay away from BCX...even though its exterior grade it is full of voids...
Separating the cap from the hull is not that big of a deal...I managed to pull mine off by myself with no issues...
I just built a couple of temporary trusses, used some ratchet straps and rope and busted everything loose in about 4-5 hours...
Here is a couple of pics of the set up...











DSCF1247.jpg


Good Luck and Have Fun!
GT1M
 
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Re: 94 Bass Stelath VIP SX180 Rebuild

Thanks again for all the help. Thanks GT I thought it was a good looking boat too. Since I got it at a good price and rebuilding the transom myself I plan to put the savings into and update a few other aspects of the boat.

Thinking about it more throughout the day I have decided it isn't worth cutting out a few bucks for the plywood. I am just going to figure out the exact size cuts I will need and determine how many sheets I need so I don't order a lot of extra. Local lumber yard gave me a price today of $80/sht plus tax and will take about a week to deliver.

I wish I could see the pics but I am still at work and my office computer has all pictures blocked - gotta love that - Will check them out later tonight.

Hoping to start this weekend. Planning the cap removal this Friday and should be removing wood by Saturday if all goes well. From all the threads I have read I am looking forward to achieving this project and adding it to the extracurricular accomplishments.
 
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Re: 94 Bass Stelath VIP SX180 Rebuild

GT1M thanks for the pics. That is exactly what I was looking for. Prefect example of a cap removal in my opinion. Also thanks for the time frame that gives me some needed confidence that even without help I can do it myself.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Re: 94 Bass Stelath VIP SX180 Rebuild

Did You check Lowe's and HD for Aruaco brand Plywood? It's some Great stuff and usually runs $40 to $50 bucks for 3/4" 4x8 sheet.
 
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Re: 94 Bass Stelath VIP SX180 Rebuild

The process has begun. GT1M thanks for the pics and the time frame I was right at the same time about 5 hours by myself. Now on to the fun (haha) part of removing all the wood. Attached are some pictures of my progress and I uploaded more to my photobucket account.


Cap off / Deck Off


Cap hull separated from he front


I had to pull carpet out of the cener section, sand off fibergalass over screws, remove screw, and cut glass on edge of lip in order to separate the cap and hull


cut thin line


Knee Braces and Stringers are gone


Day one completed.
 

GT1000000

Rear Admiral
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Re: 94 Bass Stelath VIP SX180 Rebuild

Awesome! Glad to see they helped out...:)
At least now you know for sure what is lying ahead...
The worst part is the demo...once you get past that, it is still a ton of work, but at least it is progress in a positive direction.
 
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Re: 94 Bass Stelath VIP SX180 Rebuild

Day 2 In the books. Feels like I didn't get much done yesterday but I did determine the left side is completely shot and figured why the front was rotten. The front deck drain hose was drilled into the left side of the stringer and all the water was being dumped into the foam instead of the open area. At least I know how to keep it from doing it again. Figured out the right side seams to be solid other than the stringer.


Front deck center access hatch drain hose - drilled into flotation area rather than open section in center.


End of day two
 
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Re: 94 Bass Stelath VIP SX180 Rebuild

Another question. Since I will have to remove all the flotation foam on the left and some on the right. What is the best thing to use to replace the flotation foam?
 
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