93 vp aq570 with 280 drive hydrolocked??

[Carver 2850]

I had to think for a minute but get what you're saying about the block off plates needed for a closed system between the vp manifold and riser, then an inlet for raw water on the top end. I would really like to get this this boat in the water quickly if possible, I'm paying for an empty slip now also, maybe I'll try to get a running 350 vortec and a marine manifold.
I just finished reading your "venture" thread. Wow! I have a 19 ft open bow with a 5.0 and a quadrajet. I can only open it up for a short burst without having to change my shorts, guess I don't have the "need for speed".
This boat is a floating condo, just need it to be dependable.

I'm back. Putting together a block, waiting for gaskets, etc. Thought I would replace the t-stat however I'm having a hard time getting the old one out. I've soaked with penetrating oil but it's like the top of the Stat is welded to the housing. Any suggestions?

 

[Scott Danforth]

Prybar.

Then remove the rust by either:

Soak in oxalic acid.

Sandblasting

 

[Carver 2850]

Prybar.

Then remove the rust by either:

Soak in oxalic acid.

Sandblasting

Thanks. Got it out, however it looks like there is a snap ring retainer that was holding it in??? I can see it now that it's cleaned up a little

 

[Carver 2850]

Thanks. Got it out, however it looks like there is a snap ring retainer that was holding it in??? I can see it now that it's cleaned up a little

Holy cow. They're making this difficult. The rubber seal is grooved on the OD for the snap ring and grooved on the ID for the thermostat. Not sure how this is all going back together

 

[Scott Danforth]

Like putting in a window on a vw beetle. A bit of fishing line

 

[Carver 2850]

Just to verify...aq 570 raw water pump is on the port side of the crsak. Intake is the lower hose right?? Having a hard time getting water to the stat housing

 

[Scott Danforth]

arrows on the cover.

and yes, if the pump ports are on the port side, its the lower one that is inlet.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Having a hard time getting water to the stat housing

Using muffs?

Is the raw water casting on the H-frame pivot in good shape?

 

[Carver 2850]

Using muffs?

Is the raw water casting on the H-frame pivot in good shape?

Sorry missed that post. I'll need to look at that again but I believe it looks OK
Now installing new riser gaskets part #857618, looked at prior posts, not sure
Whether to use copper sealant or not. Surfaces are flat but there is very minor pitting on the inner lip of the exhaust jacket.

 

[Bondo]

Sorry missed that post. I'll need to look at that again but I believe it looks OK
Now installing new riser gaskets part #857618, looked at prior posts, not sure
Whether to use copper sealant or not. Surfaces are flat but there is very minor pitting on the inner lip of the exhaust jacket.

Ayuh,..... No sealant needed,.....
File, or belt-sand that face Smooth,.....

 

[Scott Danforth]

Sorry missed that post. I'll need to look at that again but I believe it looks OK

pull the hose off. that little casting will corrode in fresh water within 3-5 years and about 1.5-2 years in salt water.

 

[Carver 2850]

pull the hose off. that little casting will corrode in fresh water within 3-5 years and about 1.5-2 years in salt water.

Will do. It seems to pull water fine when in the river. Squirted out the manifold to riser joint robustly.

 

[Carver 2850]

Ayuh,..... No sealant needed,.....
File, or belt-sand that face Smooth,.....

Thank you sir. I'm hearing torque values from 26 to 30 lbs, sound about right? I may go 28, split the difference...

 

[QBhoy]

Yes. The lower block drains. One of them (port side) goes to the hot water heater heat exchanger.

Surely not ? That’s absolutely not where the heater should take its supply from. Are you sure it takes water from the block drain to supply the water heater ?

 

[Carver 2850]

Surely not ? That’s absolutely not where the heater should take its supply from. Are you sure it takes water from the block drain to supply the water heater ?

The hot water heater is plumbed to the freshwater system. The coolant from the block circulates through the hot water heater and back to the block to help heat the water in the heater when under power, acting as a heat exchanger. That's how the manual describes it and that how it looks to be plumbed. That's what I was trying to say in the previous post.

 

[QBhoy]

The hot water heater is plumbed to the freshwater system. The coolant from the block circulates through the hot water heater and back to the block to help heat the water in the heater when under power, acting as a heat exchanger. That's how the manual describes it and that how it looks to be plumbed. That's what I was trying to say in the previous post.

It usually comes off the designed fittings on the water circ pump and back to the top just behind it. There are dedicated fittings there for just that.

 

[Carver 2850]

It usually comes off the designed fittings on the water circ pump and back to the top just behind it. There are dedicated fittings there for just that.

That makes sense. The other end (return?) goes to a fitting on the starboard side of the circ pump. I'm not sure why they plumbed this one that way but it all looks factory legit. Wrapped in protective plastic and nicely fastened to the bulkhead with the other looms and plumbing.

 

[QBhoy]

That makes sense. The other end (return?) goes to a fitting on the starboard side of the circ pump. I'm not sure why they plumbed this one that way but it all looks factory legit. Wrapped in protective plastic and nicely fastened to the bulkhead with the other looms and plumbing.

Hey…if it works, it works…but certainly not the conventional way. I thought it might suffer lack of flow that way or disturbed flow at the least. Yeah. There is a blank fitting on the circ pump and one also behind the t stat on the top of the engine. That’s what they are for. Just so it’s pumped from the high pressure side of the pump…then returns to the lower pressure of the engine there. The way you have it I’d imagine is almost fighting against itself, if it comes from one block drain and returns to the other. Strange for sure.
I’m sure you’ll know..but mind that you need to blow through those fittings (if raw water system) to clear them if water, when or if winterising is required. Otherwise you’ll get water trapped in the element coil of the hot water tank. Freeze and burst it. They ain’t cheap to replace. Just thought I’d mention

 

[Carver 2850]

Hey…if it works, it works…but certainly not the conventional way. I thought it might suffer lack of flow that way or disturbed flow at the least. Yeah. There is a blank fitting on the circ pump and one also behind the t stat on the top of the engine. That’s what they are for. Just so it’s pumped from the high pressure side of the pump…then returns to the lower pressure of the engine there. The way you have it I’d imagine is almost fighting against itself, if it comes from one block drain and returns to the other. Strange for sure.
I’m sure you’ll know..but mind that you need to blow through those fittings (if raw water system) to clear them if water, when or if winterising is required. Otherwise you’ll get water trapped in the element coil of the hot water tank. Freeze and burst it. They ain’t cheap to replace. Just thought I’d mention

Thanks. I haven't checked the coil in the hot water tank yet (kinda scared to find out, this boat had freeze damage to the block). I guess just pull the hoses and pressure test? If the hot water heater is toast I may just go tankless electric. That way I'll at least have hot water when I'm plugged in.