9.9 Evinrude, won't go over 3000 RPM

[DeanHensler]

Re: 9.9 Evinrude, won't go over 3000 RPM

This motor does have an electric primer. I'm not sure how that relates to a "quick start funciton". You push in on the key to prime it. Once the motor is warm I never have to use the primer to start it.

I think the next step is to take the carb back off (which is a major pain in the *** on this motor) and do the blow test on the fuel inlet to make sure the needle and seat and float are working properly.

If that all checks out, the ONLY thing I can think of would be the electric primer being screwed up and flooding out the engine. This carb has two fuel inlets. I'm assuming one is coming off the fuel pump and that's the main line into the float bowl, the other is a smaller line in. Is the smaller line in coming from the electric primer? If I disconnect that and cap it off should the motor still run?

 

[Scurvy Knave]

Re: 9.9 Evinrude, won't go over 3000 RPM

the electric primer solenoid might NFG. that could explain excess fuel.

 

[DeanHensler]

Re: 9.9 Evinrude, won't go over 3000 RPM

whats NFG stand for?

If I remove the smaller inlet line from the carb and cap it off would that eliminate the electric primer from the equation?

 

[milliesdad]

Re: 9.9 Evinrude, won't go over 3000 RPM

I just put 2 brand new Champion L82C plugs in it this morning. Same exact problem still exists. When I first put it in reverse and give it full throttle it will jump to about 2000 RPM, then drop down to about 1200-1500 and hold there. When I put it in forward with full throttle it goes to 3000 RPM and stays there.

Here is a quick video I shot today showing the motor running. I attempted to pull the bottom spark plug wire with it idling but it died. I did the same thing with it at full throttle and it did keep running, but a lot rougher. Shocked the hell out of me when I pull the plug wire with full throttle too. This tells me that both spark plugs are firing.

What is the spark plug gap supposed to be on this motor? I'm at .035 right now.

Note when I pulled the brand new plugs out after only running the engine for about 2 minutes, they were very wet with gas/oil. I think this thing continues to flood itself out.

Note 2: I ran out of gas while messing with the motor today. Right before I ran out, the engine took off and ran up to 5000 RPM in forward, then died as it ran out of gas. Strange... I thought for a minute the problem was magically fixed, but after refueling, the same problem continues.

I think you found your problem-It died when you tried to run it on one cyl.

Check the spark with a spark tester and check the condition of coils and condensors.

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: 9.9 Evinrude, won't go over 3000 RPM

I think you found your problem-It died when you tried to run it on one cyl.

Check the spark with a spark tester and check the condition of coils and condensors.

What condensers?

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: 9.9 Evinrude, won't go over 3000 RPM

This motor does have an electric primer. I'm not sure how that relates to a "quick start funciton". You push in on the key to prime it. Once the motor is warm I never have to use the primer to start it.

I think the next step is to take the carb back off (which is a major pain in the *** on this motor) and do the blow test on the fuel inlet to make sure the needle and seat and float are working properly.

If that all checks out, the ONLY thing I can think of would be the electric primer being screwed up and flooding out the engine. This carb has two fuel inlets. I'm assuming one is coming off the fuel pump and that's the main line into the float bowl, the other is a smaller line in. Is the smaller line in coming from the electric primer? If I disconnect that and cap it off should the motor still run?

If it's 1992, it is probably an electric choke.

 

[DeanHensler]

Re: 9.9 Evinrude, won't go over 3000 RPM

I tried two more things today and my problem still persists.

1. I removed the electric primer fuel line from the carb to insure it was working properly. When I removed the line I put my finger over the inlet to prevent a vacuum leak and the motor didn't run any different. I tested the electric primer with the line off to insure it squirts fuel when and only when I push in on the key. It is working 100% correctly. It does not leak any fuel when I'm not pressing in on the key. The motor runs the same with or without the line hooked up.

2. I removed and cleaned the carb again (I just did this like 3 weeks ago). When I first removed the carb I got excited because it was very dirty inside and I hoped I had found the problem. WRONG. I've attached a couple pictures that show some of the black stuff that was all over the inside of the carb. I can't figure out what exactly this stuff is. It looked like little shavings of rubber or something. It can't be from my fuel line though, I just put brand new fuel line from the brand new tank with brand new fuel in it. All brand new stuff since I cleaned the carb 3 weeks ago. I'm thinking it might be the foam from the inside of the cover for the engine. That foam is old and flaking off. Anyway, I cleaned the carb very well and put it back together, recording a video of my assembly so you guys can watch it and insure I did everything correct. I put the carb back on the motor and I've still got the exact same problem. I haven't ran it with the cover back on it because I'm afraid that's where the little black stuff is coming from. Regardless, I still have the exact same problem. It will start and idle, but when I put it in gear and throttle it up its just a dog. It won't go over 3000 RPM in forward or 1500 in reverse. I can literaly generate more thrust by swimming and pushing my boat than this thing puts out in reverse. The spark plugs continue to be soaking wet whenever I remove them. Finally, if I disconnect the fuel line and let the motor run out of gas, just before running out of gas it takes off like a bat out of hell and runs like it should, then dies because its out of fuel.

It is still getting way too much fuel at full throttle. Please look at the pictures and watch the video of the carb assembly. Any help would be appreciated. I'm about ready to go shopping for a new motor and let this thing sink to the bottom of the lake.



Video of carb assembly: Evinrude 9.9 Carb Assembly - YouTube

 

[Scurvy Knave]

Re: 9.9 Evinrude, won't go over 3000 RPM

Well Dean, how could foam from inside the cover get into the fuel side of the carb? That black crud came from your gas tank, your fuel line or your fuel pump. Can't think of anywhere else it could come from.

Still sounds like there might be something wrong with the HS jet if you're getting too much fuel at WOT. Other part of the equation would be air. Is your air intake clean and unobstructed? Kids didn't hide their weed in there?:lol:

 

[DeanHensler]

Re: 9.9 Evinrude, won't go over 3000 RPM

You're right. Now that I think about it that black stuff couldn't have come from the air. The fuel pump is the only thing that isn't brand new. I took it apart a few weeks ago and it all looked good. Reinstalled it and no change to the problem I'm having.

Where exactly is the high speed jet on this carb? What could go wrong with it that would cause it to send TOO MUCH fuel to the motor?

 

[the machinist]

Re: 9.9 Evinrude, won't go over 3000 RPM

After reading all this, here is my 2 cents. You seem to think the plugs are wet because it is flooding, however all your indications are it is starving for fuel. This is more evident by the debris in the carb of your posted photos. The high speed or main jet is a small hollow brass insert in the white plastic collector box part that is in the center of the float in your photo. Pull the pivot pin of the float & you will see the jet.

By the way when you had it apart, did you be sure that the foam spacer/seal was still in the bottom of the bowl UNDER that white mainjet collector box?

I suspect you are using Ethanol gas which tends to eat up older rubber fuel lines & that is the debris you are seeing in the carb. It will not take a lot of this to plug up the mainjet. A simple check/solution would be to install a fuel filter in the line closer to the motor.

You say it "took off like a bat out of hell" once. This may be becasue some of that debris broke loose and passed thru the mainjet once. Then more plugged it later.

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: 9.9 Evinrude, won't go over 3000 RPM

1) Has this motor ever run satisfactorily FOR YOU?
2) Gap should be 0.030"
3) Did this motor always go on this pontoon? i.e. was the motor propped for this application?

You've answered #3 but not #1....and I guess since you are asking where the jets are, you did not answer or do post #18 actions.

At this point, if i were you, I'd get a good schematic of that carb and get the main jet out...also called orifice plug.
I'll bet that someone has changed the carb or jet along the way and you have a 15 hp jet...way too big.
You never gave us a model number, but you need to figure out the correct jet size and verify what you have got.

 

[AlTn]

Re: 9.9 Evinrude, won't go over 3000 RPM

try marineengine.com for schematics...they may have been there and you just failed to call them out, but you need a gasket ubetween the needle valve seat and the carb body < resembles a plastic washer > #27...gaskets #'s 6 and 8 both on top of and under the nozzle well...if the nozzle well is cracked it needs repair or replacement..the main jet <orfice plug > screws into the nozzle well at its base

The screen in the f/p can p/u really tiny particles prior to them entering the pump...maybe what you are seeing were in the f/p after you replaced the fuel lines and have just now worked themselves to the carb or, these may be bits of the f/p diaphrams

 

[DeanHensler]

Re: 9.9 Evinrude, won't go over 3000 RPM

By the way when you had it apart, did you be sure that the foam spacer/seal was still in the bottom of the bowl UNDER that white mainjet collector box?

You say it "took off like a bat out of hell" once. This may be becasue some of that debris broke loose and passed thru the mainjet once. Then more plugged it later.

Yes I made sure the gasket looking material was still in the bottom of the bowl. It actually came out while I was blowing the bowl with compressed air and I put it back in. I believe you can see it in there in the video I made of myself assembling the carb after cleaning.

It didn't just take off like a bat out of hell the first time it ran out of fuel. I have tested that theory three times now and every time it takes off and revs way up right before it runs out of fuel.

 

[DeanHensler]

Re: 9.9 Evinrude, won't go over 3000 RPM

You've answered #3 but not #1....and I guess since you are asking where the jets are, you did not answer or do post #18 actions.

Answer to #1: I bought it from a guy who ran it in a tank. I can't tell how many RPM it was turning in the tank so I'm not sure if it ever ran right. I'm thinking it didn't...

I did what post #18 suggested and posted evidence with this video: Evinrude 9.9 Carb Assembly - YouTube Check the video at 4:30 in.

 

[DeanHensler]

Re: 9.9 Evinrude, won't go over 3000 RPM

try marineengine.com for schematics...they may have been there and you just failed to call them out, but you need a gasket ubetween the needle valve seat and the carb body < resembles a plastic washer > #27...gaskets #'s 6 and 8 both on top of and under the nozzle well...if the nozzle well is cracked it needs repair or replacement..the main jet <orfice plug > screws into the nozzle well at its base

Both of the gaskets you reference were there and i installed them correctly.

 

[DeanHensler]

Re: 9.9 Evinrude, won't go over 3000 RPM

After reading all this, here is my 2 cents. You seem to think the plugs are wet because it is flooding, however all your indications are it is starving for fuel.

I guess a question I have is ARE the plugs supposed to be soaking wet? They are everytime I remove them. Not just a little wet, I'm talking soaked.

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: 9.9 Evinrude, won't go over 3000 RPM

At this point, if i were you, I'd get a good schematic of that carb and get the main jet out...also called orifice plug.
I'll bet that someone has changed the carb or jet along the way and you have a 15 hp jet...way too big.
You never gave us a model number, but you need to figure out the correct jet size and verify what you have got.

You gotta work with us on this....

 

[the machinist]

Re: 9.9 Evinrude, won't go over 3000 RPM

Another thought about the "wet " plugs, are they fuel wet or oil wet? It coould be possible that among other things, your carb has problems, like Tim Frank says if the mainjet is from a 15hp you will experience the same problems.

And if your thermostat may not functioning (staying open) allowing water to not be retained within the motor, but pumping cool water out, the motor will not get warm enough to really burn the lubricating mix oil properly, thereby leaving extra on the plugs.

If you pull the carb off & look at the main jet / orfice plug, there should be a number on it. This tells the dia, hole in the jet, that will tell a mechanic if it is a 9.9 or 15hp jet.

 

[DeanHensler]

Re: 9.9 Evinrude, won't go over 3000 RPM

Another thought about the "wet " plugs, are they fuel wet or oil wet?

They are oil wet. Black oil.

If I let the motor idle for 5 minutes to get good and warmed up, how warm should the water that's pumping out of the motor be? Keep in mind this is now in a lake and the water is probably 60 degrees. I can test this tomorrow if you can tell me how warm the water should be.

I will remove the carb tomorrow one more time (this will be the third time now) and look at the main jet. I'll take pictures of the numbers and post them on this topic for your review.

The model number of the motor is TE10RELENA

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: 9.9 Evinrude, won't go over 3000 RPM

The orifice plug should be a #34. If it is indeed a 15 HP jet, it will be a #54.
The ID # = the number in thousand of an inch. i.e. a #34 ID = 0.034"
If you can't find the number on the part....if you have a numbered drill set, you can use a #67 drill as a "go" gauge and a a #63 as a "no-go".
If you don't have numbered drills, a 1/32 " drill should fit....a 3/64 should not ....if it is the right part.

If you somehow have the larger orifice, you can verify using a #56 as a "go" and a #54 as a "no-go".

Either way, the correct jet should be readily available, according to my chart it is OMC part# 324025.