89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repairs.

[Speak]

Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

It's been more than a year since I compared prices, but I think they were pretty much the same, especially if you don't have to pay shipping just for the gelcoat. There are no places near me that sell gelcoat or bilgekote, so any shipping costs were basically a wash in my case.

As with all applications of polyester resins (or any coating, really), surface prep is important. Otherwise, the stuff is easy to use. It has a shorter pot life than most paints, of course, because it's catalyzed, but that also means you can recoat sooner....

ok thanks for that.

 

[Speak]

Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

So, looking closely at my rear drain that goes thru the transom which originally went right thru the wood. No wonder the transom rotted out. Here is what Im thinking of doing. If I drill out the wood twice as big then fill it with peanut butter and then drill thu the peanut butter with a 1" hole saw will this be ok? Im thinking that will stop the water from every getting into the wood again. If this doesnt sound like a good idea does anyone have any solutions?
Thanks again guys.
Started cutting the deck today. Will post some pictures tomorrow. Just heading out for dinner.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

Yep ^^^ some do it the same way. Make sure you know how big a thru hull drain you'll be using before drilling thru the PB, or making the to be filled hole WAY too big....

 

[Speak]

Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

Yep ^^^ some do it the same way. Make sure you know how big a thru hull drain you'll be using before drilling thru the PB, or making the to be filled hole WAY too big....

Ok great, I plan on not enlarging the hole that goes thru the hull. Its one inch in diameter. I will make the hole in the wood an inch bigger and fill it with peanut butter. Then drill from the outside in with a one inch spade bit or hole saw. Will that be ok?
thanks again for all the input.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

Do you have a replacement garboard drain plug yet? I would make sure you have one in hand BEFORE you decide on the size of the hole you will drill in the fiberglass plug. An inch might be too large... Better to be sure before you drill.

Also,I prefer using a hole saw (rather than a spade bit) for cutting into thick resin. A forstner bit is even better, especially if you want nice clean edges to the hole.

Jim

 

[Speak]

Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

Do you have a replacement garboard drain plug yet? I would make sure you have one in hand BEFORE you decide on the size of the hole you will drill in the fiberglass plug. An inch might be too large... Better to be sure before you drill.

Also,I prefer using a hole saw (rather than a spade bit) for cutting into thick resin. A forstner bit is even better, especially if you want nice clean edges to the hole.

Jim

Yes I have a garboard plug. The original hole thru the hull is 1 inch, so i thought I should should stay with that size. Thanks for the tip on the the hole saw. What is a forstner bit? suppose it could just google that.

Thanks again.

 

[Speak]

Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

Gents, questions. I cut the deck and dry fitted everything. I am happy with this progress and planning the next step in my head. What am trying to figure out is this. 1. should i use PL premium to bond the deck to the perimeter of the hull? 2. can I or should I use PL premium to bond the deck to the stringers as well? 3. Should I screw down the deck to the stringers? If so what screws should I use?
I promise to have pictures soon. Weather keeps getting in the way..we just got hammered again with another 20cm of snow the other day, so waiting for it to reduce in order to get back out there again. Before i put the deck in I will obviously pre glass the wood.
Cheers - Speak

 

[Speak]

Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

oh sorry one other question. When it comes to replacing the foam. Is it a big "no" "no" to use the foam board from home depot? I seen some guy do that. or should I just go get the mix and pour in foam. For some reason that pour in foam scares me. I wonder if I could make a mistake in calculating how much to use and it will pop my deck off when it rises. Im thinking that i could "work" with home depot stuff and get the same results but in better controled manner. Maybe I am over thinking it. Dunno

 

[tpenfield]

Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

Pour-in Foam adds strength to the structure. If you search some of the threads here on iBoats you will see how it is poured into the structure chambers thru holes in the deck.. those same holes act as pressure relief valves . . . and in fact you want to see foam expand out of them a bit, as that will indicate a good fill of the chamber.

The guys that use the styrene boards (a La Home Depot), get the benefit of flotation only, no additional hull strength.

 

[Speak]

Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

Pour-in Foam adds strength to the structure. If you search some of the threads here on iBoats you will see how it is poured into the structure chambers thru holes in the deck.. those same holes act as pressure relief valves . . . and in fact you want to see foam expand out of them a bit, as that will indicate a good fill of the chamber.

The guys that use the styrene boards (a La Home Depot), get the benefit of flotation only, no additional hull strength.

Ok thank you for that, I will go buy the pour in foam. Any advice on my previous post regarding the deck?

 

[bvetter]

Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

Ok thank you for that, I will go buy the pour in foam. Any advice on my previous post regarding the deck?

I'm wondering the same thing too, about whether to use PB, PL, or nothing between deck and stringers/bulkheads.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

I used PB. I didn't use PL anywhere. PL needs 72 hours or more to cure; I didn't want to wait that long to keep working.

I also used stainless steel screws to attach the pieces of decking.

 

[Speak]

Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

I used PB. I didn't use PL anywhere. PL needs 72 hours or more to cure; I didn't want to wait that long to keep working.

I also used stainless steel screws to attach the pieces of decking.

Out of curiosity, why do you have to wait 72 hours?

 

[Speak]

Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

I used PB. I didn't use PL anywhere. PL needs 72 hours or more to cure; I didn't want to wait that long to keep working.

I also used stainless steel screws to attach the pieces of decking.

Out of curiosity, why do you have to wait 72 hours?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

In the curing process of the Polyurethane Adhesive it outgases. This gas will not allow you to lay glass over the top of the glue. If you do it will adversely affect the bond of the glass and cause it to bubble up and not bond. It sometimes takes even longer than 72 hrs. and even after full cure glass does not like to stick to the stuff. It's best to make sure you clean up well and not have any residue of it where you want to apply glass later.

 

[Speak]

Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai


Some progress today on the Bayliner. Dry fitted all the cut out wood. Starting to look like a boat again.

 

[Speak]

Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai


Some more pictures. I managed to save the seat boxes. The are completely dry and were not rotton. I plan on tabbing them back in and then painting them to freshen them up.

Question. Im using CSM 1.5oz and 18oz roving and unwaxed polyester resin. How much of each in layers should i use when it comes to my stringers and transom. Both the stringers, engine mounts and the transom have one layer of CSM on it for now. As soon as the weather stays warm here I want to dive in. Im just not sure how many layers and of what cloth to use. Also when it comes to my engine mounts, any idea's on that, im thinking the mounts should be extra beefy? The mounts will be holding a 2.3l ford omc.

 

[Speak]

Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

http://forums.iboats.com/boat-resto...go-splashed-w-pics-384982-25.html#post3586813

Ok I found this link of what WOG recommends and that makes sense, however I am not using 1708. thoughts?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

"Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms"

Follow the graphic WOG made ^^^. Instead of 1708, you'll use 18oz roving, BUT because it doesn't have CSM stitched to the back of it, you'll need to put a layer of CSM between the 2 layers of roving.

I've never used 18oz roving, but it may be more difficult to get it to roll up over the cove fillet and up & over the top of the stringers. It'll probably do it, but might lift & create an air pocket. You can try to use pins to hold it where you put it. As a heavy weave, it may also sag.

 

[Arawak]

Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

So, looking closely at my rear drain that goes thru the transom which originally went right thru the wood. No wonder the transom rotted out. Here is what Im thinking of doing. If I drill out the wood twice as big then fill it with peanut butter and then drill thu the peanut butter with a 1" hole saw will this be ok? Im thinking that will stop the water from every getting into the wood again. If this doesnt sound like a good idea does anyone have any solutions?.

I've done that before, and then fitted a brass draintube. However, on my Chryler rebuild, I found a piece of PVC pipe the right diameter, coated it with candle wax, and put it in the middle of the PB.

Next morning after it had set up overnight, I used a wooden dowel to tap it out and voila... perfect smooth hole the right diameter, no drilling, no exposed wood.