'89 19' Fishmaster restoration

[rcatskills]

2 months into a rip down to replace saturated foam, new floor, carpet, vinyl and what ever else it needs.
Aluminum panels off and 60% cleaned of adhesive. Still debating transom replacement.

Question - what density foam should I use under floor and in side panels. I need to start thinking about getting it ordered.

 

[pckeen]

Re: '89 19' Fishmaster restoration

Use the pink 1" thick foam. Many restorers seem to use that.

 

[rcatskills]

Re: '89 19' Fishmaster restoration

I think I'm going go with pour in foam for this project but not sure if 2 lb or 4 lb is the correct density. I considered panels as you suggested but I like the stiffening factor that pour in will give me. The front casting deck and floor rest on it and I just don't think I could get the desired stiffness from panels. I will say that after chipping out all that wet foam I like the idea of the sheet foam.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: '89 19' Fishmaster restoration

2lb pour in, IF you don't intend for it to also support the deck (floor) as was sometimes done OEM in tin boats

4lb if you NEED it to add support to the deck.

PC is correct, a variety of thicknesses of pink/green/blue insulation sheets from HD/Lowes type stores, cut to fit, is a good alternative & avoids the pour-in water logged foam debate.

How is the Fishmaster's rib~limber hole setup? Allow drainage back to the bilge?

 

[rcatskills]

Re: '89 19' Fishmaster restoration

Thanks for the info. The floor and front deck both rest on the foam and it stabilizes the aluminum that the front deck rest on so I guess I need the 4 lb.

As far a limber holes - no nearly enough so I'm adding more. even with all foam out and cleaned up, water still collects on uphill side of stringers. the only way for water to drain from the outboard side of the stringers into the bilge is just forward of the transom. I'm thinking about adding some material to aid in draining that water even after the foam is installed - However I've come to the conclusion that boats with poured in foam must be kept dry or at least not allowed to collect water for any period of time.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: '89 19' Fishmaster restoration

Yep ^^^ about the foam & the water.........
Who knew? Gotta keep the boats away from water...

Pix of the hull would be great. 2lb foam will also help support the deck, it's not quite as dense as 4lb.

Read thru some info about pour in foam. Unless you are using 3/8" decking or have an extremely thin/flimsy hull, 2lb will probably be sufficient. Until just now, I've never seen that US Comps also carries 3lb foam........

NOTE: 2lb expands at nearly 2X the volume of 4lb. So to fill the same size area, you'd need twice the 4lb foam vs 2lb. There is little difference in the amount of weight floated between the 2.

2lb: 60lb/CuFt 4lb: 58lb/CuFt

 

[rcatskills]

Re: '89 19' Fishmaster restoration

. . Some pics with almost everything out. Still need to do some more carpet adhesive removal.......you can't have enough rags. Think I'm going to have to buy her a bunch of new towels. Ready to investigate that transom now.

 

[Streetgang]

Re: '89 19' Fishmaster restoration

Tagging along.

Interesting hull. If you are sold on pour in foam may want to check out Oops famous thoughts. He will show you how to keep the foam dry, how to incorporate a drainage system and how to utilize a false deck when putting in the foam so you dont have to drill up your own deck.

 

[rcatskills]

Re: '89 19' Fishmaster restoration

Where do I find "oops famous thoughts"..l

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: '89 19' Fishmaster restoration

Oops thread, bring a good chair & a frosty adult libation:
hull extension in progress with pics

 

[Streetgang]

Re: '89 19' Fishmaster restoration

There is an index on his (Oops) first page.

The section I was talking about is on pg 167.

I know there is a sketch somewhere of the pipeing layout .....

 

[rcatskills]

Re: '89 19' Fishmaster restoration- pulling motor

Re: '89 19' Fishmaster restoration- pulling motor

7/19 -- got my motor lifting eye yesterday so over the weekend motor comes off
Have decided that while the boat is disassembled this far and there is lots of evidence of water having sat in it for long periods of time that I will replace the transom. In addition I'll probably repower and I dont want to get it back together and have the outboard shop tell me I can't repower cause of a week transom. doesnt look or feel bad but I know its been wet for a long time.

Foam- after considering the much debated issue I have decided on a hybrid approach. Cut blue/pink sheet foam in the back 18" of the hull,along stringers and in selected areas that need to have water run past them in the event of water intrusion -so I get the drainage I want. Then pour in foam above the floor in the side panels and in the cavities that I don't think will have any water holding issues.

Any thoughts ?

Also would like any thoughts anyone has on the replacement carpet wt. 14,16 or 20 oz. None of it is on the floor all carpet is on sidewalls, console and storage areas.

 

[rcatskills]

Re: '89 19' Fishmaster restoration- transom refers questions

Re: '89 19' Fishmaster restoration- transom refers questions

Transom out,using it as patern for two pieces of 3/4 marine plywood I picked up yesterday. found that cutting oversize and using router trim bit with bearing works great. Will bond these two pieces together with p. urethane (PL something .
Question. : should I be getting polyester resin or epoxy to do the sealing of this Assy. I see many speaking of using resin in bolt holes and to seal. Are they speaking of epoxy or polyester?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: '89 19' Fishmaster restoration

Make sure to get 100% & even coverage of the PL on the plywood. A notched trowel works well. You might make a few 1/2" holes thru 1 of the ply pieces. PL can trap air between the sheets, preventing good adhesion. The 1/2" hole gives it some place to vent out. Also makes another mechanical connection between the 2 pieces of ply.

You can use either epoxy or polyester resin, BUT if you use poly you need to also use fiberglass mat or cloth of some type. Poly resin alone is brittle, and can crack over time. Epoxy, you can use solo.

If poly, use 2 or more coats w/ 1.5oz CSM or 1 CSM layer & a layer of heavier fabric over that, all in 1 layup. Coat both sides & the edges really well. If you do the 2 layers in 1 layup, just wait 15min +/- for the 1st to get tacky & then apply the 2nd. Done like this you won't have to sand between the 2 'coats'.

For epoxy I'd use 2-3 coats per side & coat the edges every time you do a side (they'll get 4-6 coats) scuff the epoxy between coats.

For tin boat builds, most prefer epoxy over poly.

Coat the inside of the bolt holes w/ epoxy resin. Won't take much, even if you decide to use polyester.

Some also use spar varnish, but 4-8 coats, sanding lightly between. I'd still use epoxy for the bolt holes.

 

[rcatskills]

Re: '89 19' Fishmaster restoration transom work

Re: '89 19' Fishmaster restoration transom work

Ok thanks for the great info It's exactly what I was looking for. Will use epoxy. Both pieces cut and screwed together for dry fit and guess what, it actually fit pretty good without to big a hammer. Will now proceed to the glue up using temporary screws to clamp and also a couple of holes like you suggested. Will then dry fit again and mark and drill thru holes. After I make sure the bolts all fit I'll remove the wood and be ready to coat. Do I need to oversize the thru holes and then fill with epoxy and then redrill to the correct size? Also there are a handful of wood screws that were put in from the inside, not thru screws , probably for assembly aid at the factory. how should I handle them? One more question , do I oversize the transom drain holes ,fill with epoxy and then redrill? Actually will probably have many more question.

It's great feeling to see something going into this boat instead of out - there were several times when I was sick of adhesive solvent or laying on back under the splash well in positions I didn't know I could still get in, when I questioned the logic of this project.

 

[rcatskills]

Re: '89 19' Fishmaster restoration transom build w/pics

Re: '89 19' Fishmaster restoration transom build w/pics

Ok, glue up done. Used about 100 cabinet screws hope they come out Without any problem. Added some pictures of the dry fit and the glue up.

Could still use some help on questions in previous post

Thanks

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: '89 19' Fishmaster restoration

Your choice on overdrilling, filling w/ epoxy & re-drilling.

The oversized hole you drill needs to be larger on the interior side of the hole then the exterior. 1/2 drill it from each direction, using a 1/2" larger bit on the interior. This 'locks' your epoxy plug into the plywood & it is less likely to be pulled thru. A 1/2" hole filled w/ epoxy might be pulled thru if the epoxy's adhesion to the plywood is ever broken. The plug should also be smaller then any interior washer, for the same reason.

Lot's of work, that ^^^.

You could also drill the holes 1/8" +/- larger then you need & just epoxy coat the inside of the bolt hole, several coats. Done.

Any hole you drill into or thru the plywood should be sealed against moisture. Dip each screw just before driving it, in epoxy or 3M 4200/5200. Epoxy & 5200 will make it fairly difficult to remove the screws later.

You need to let the PL setup for 72hrs before you encapsulate the lamination. PL off gases as it cures.

 

[Streetgang]

Re: '89 19' Fishmaster restoration

JB is giving you some great guidance here.

A few .02 cents:

If you have a West Marine store near you stop by and get a free copy of West systems User Manual, product guide # 002-950. Might call them first to make sure they have some in stock.

If no store close you may be able to read it online or order a copy from West Systems or perhaps from Iboats.

When covering with epoxy you can lay on more than one coat at a time, thereby eliminating the need to sand in-between coats. You catch it when the coat is still "tacky" and can lay on the next coat. Can be a bit tricky if it is very warm as will go fast, especially if you do it in the sun....

I have no axe to grind for any particular brand but did use West Systems as store is local and it is the grand daddy of epoxy and boat repair. I used their 207 hardner which is designed for barrier coating, has no amine and has UV blockers added. It is pricey so check out options, which again you can do here at Iboats.

No matter which way you go, get the pumps and I suggest the particular mfr. you choose foam rollers.

I'm betting others will come by with their opinions but that is the beauty of this forum.

Good luck.

 

[rcatskills]

Re: '89 19' Fishmaster restoration - small complication ?

Re: '89 19' Fishmaster restoration - small complication ?

Ok, transom all together and curing. Floor panels cut and ready for epoxy. Epoxy ordered should be here late this week. Now the problem . When I was cleaning the transom skin in preparation for inserting it I found some corrosion and pitting. I think it's from where the origiNal plywood was tight to the aluminum. The original plywood appears to be treated and was probably the source for the corrosion. When I looked real close some of the corrosion has pitting that has pin holes to the outside. It doesn't pose a structural problem but I need to seal up those pits. Any thoughts would be welcome. Should I paint the skin when it's all cleaned up?

 

[rcatskills]

19' Starcraft FM19 restoration Complications with pinholes

19' Starcraft FM19 restoration Complications with pinholes

Thunderstorm last night put 6inches of water in boat. Good news, no leaking rivets. Bad news, multiple pin hole leaks from same type of corrosion pits. All these pits are right where the sidewall meets the bottom of the hull. What now? All the holes are just pinholes and no structural issues. Can I seal these Holes and if so with what? Will gluvit seal these permanently?
What treatment is necessary for the aluminum before the Gluvit.

Any help or advice appreciated