88 SPL Starting/Running Issues

[Treshuevos]

Re: 88 SPL Starting/Running Issues

I purchased the Sierra Powerhead Gasket Set just in case I needed to go "deeper"...it comes with the following head gaskets...

Head Gasket for Johnson, Evinrude 318358, GLM 33540 - Sierra 18-2956

I know there has been a lot written on this subject but should I use gasket sealer with this particular product or not?

Thanks.

 

[James R]

Re: 88 SPL Starting/Running Issues

I would recommend using OMC Evinrude/Johnson gasket sealer. Some of the manuals call for it.
Have you got anywhere regarding measurement of the bores. It would be a big waste if you refitted the heads only to find no improvement.
Measuring at the top only measures the unworn lip left by the rings not reaching the top. You need to measure at least two levels and across the bores at different diagonals. This will give you diameter, taper and out of round. A local machine shop should be able to help you.

 

[Treshuevos]

Re: 88 SPL Starting/Running Issues

I would recommend using OMC Evinrude/Johnson gasket sealer. Some of the manuals call for it.
Have you got anywhere regarding measurement of the bores. It would be a big waste if you refitted the heads only to find no improvement.
Measuring at the top only measures the unworn lip left by the rings not reaching the top. You need to measure at least two levels and across the bores at different diagonals. This will give you diameter, taper and out of round. A local machine shop should be able to help you.

I bought a set of Telescoping Gauges yesterday and measured all (4) cylinders in both locations (as shown in the manual) both vertically and horizontally...(16) measurements in total. All measurements produced results between 88.89 to 88.90.

A while back (based on other recommendations I read here) I had purchased a can of Permitex #3...I am assuming that will work as well?

The real reason I asked the question (sealer or no sealer) is because of the debate over the "new" shiny surfaced gaskets...which is what came with the kit I purchased. Based on your response it looks like you recommend using sealer.

 

[Bosunsmate]

Re: 88 SPL Starting/Running Issues

I wouldnt use the omc sealer on the head myself, the one on there does the trick, if it doesnt, then you have a flaw on it still to fix

 

[Treshuevos]

Re: 88 SPL Starting/Running Issues

I wouldnt use the omc sealer on the head myself, the one on there does the trick, if it doesnt, then you have a flaw on it still to fix

Yeah, I should have mentioned that I resurfaced them last night as well...took no more than 10 minutes per head and they are flat as can be. No wobble on glass and no wobble when you put the heads together.

 

[healey8390]

Re: 88 SPL Starting/Running Issues

Great news that the bores aren't out of round! Once you get her back together and re-check compression if it's good you're going to have to figure out why *both* banks overheated. I don't think both t-stats would of failed simultaneously so you may have a bad impeller or a flow issue judging by the salt buildup. I'd change the stats and water pump anyway since you don't know it's history.

The only other thing that could of caused both banks to overheat would have been a lean condition but I think it's the less likely of the three since there's no obvious scoring in your cylinders.

 

[racerone]

Re: 88 SPL Starting/Running Issues

Factory head gaskets have printing on them---------" Do not use sealer "------Water flows through the headgaskets.--Some folks use way too much sealer and there is a risk of plugging these holes.

 

[Treshuevos]

Re: 88 SPL Starting/Running Issues

Great news that the bores aren't out of round! Once you get her back together and re-check compression if it's good you're going to have to figure out why *both* banks overheated. I don't think both t-stats would of failed simultaneously so you may have a bad impeller or a flow issue judging by the salt buildup. I'd change the stats and water pump anyway since you don't know it's history.

The only other thing that could of caused both banks to overheat would have been a lean condition but I think it's the less likely of the three since there's no obvious scoring in your cylinders.

Will do...thanks!

Factory head gaskets have printing on them---------" Do not use sealer "------Water flows through the headgaskets.--Some folks use way too much sealer and there is a risk of plugging these holes.

No printing on these gaskets (Sierra) but based on all of the feedback I'm leaning toward no or very little sealer.

Just waiting on my deflectors and then I'll button her back up...I'll keep you all posted.

Thanks again!

 

[James R]

Re: 88 SPL Starting/Running Issues

According to specs your cylinders are on size. Good that you checked though. It can save a lot of aggravation and of course fear.
The OMC gasket sealant does not harden and can be forced away from the water holes by the pressure. Sealant of this type is used to prevent any water leaks not to seal compression. Not necessary to apply to the cylinder compression seal areas only to the water jacket areas. Use sparingly and you will have no problems. You should use this sealant as a thread sealant on the head bolts, any bolts you have removed and lower unit bolts especially. This will help to prevent corrosion problems.
Others may argue with me of course but I speak from my experience on many motors.
Good luck should be yours.

 

[James R]

Re: 88 SPL Starting/Running Issues

I forgot to mention when using the sealer on bolts coat all of the bolt including the shank. Water gets up into the cavity and causes corrosion around the shank.

 

[Treshuevos]

Re: 88 SPL Starting/Running Issues

According to specs your cylinders are on size. Good that you checked though. It can save a lot of aggravation and of course fear.
The OMC gasket sealant does not harden and can be forced away from the water holes by the pressure. Sealant of this type is used to prevent any water leaks not to seal compression. Not necessary to apply to the cylinder compression seal areas only to the water jacket areas. Use sparingly and you will have no problems. You should use this sealant as a thread sealant on the head bolts, any bolts you have removed and lower unit bolts especially. This will help to prevent corrosion problems.
Others may argue with me of course but I speak from my experience on many motors.
Good luck should be yours.

I forgot to mention when using the sealer on bolts coat all of the bolt including the shank. Water gets up into the cavity and causes corrosion around the shank.

Will do James...thanks!

 

[Treshuevos]

Re: 88 SPL Starting/Running Issues

I finally got a chance last night to do some work on the motor. Everything is cleaned up and ready to go back together. I have one concern though. While researching deflectors I read Joe Reeves' piece and learned that water deflectors are actually just lengths of 3/8" outside diameter rubber hose. So I sourced some on Amazon.com and come to find out it was 3/8in Speargun Band / Sling Latex Rubber Tubing. So here are my questions/concerns...

1. This material is a lot more flexible than the deflectors I took out. I am hoping that is just because the old deflectors were just hardened due to deterioration (3 literally fell apart and 1 remained in-tact but stiffer than the speargun band). Is this a concern?

2. The in-tact deflector measure 1 3/4" and all of the others I pulled appeared similar in length (although it was tough to tell as they fell apart upon removal). Should all of the deflectors measure the same length?

Just want to be 100% sure before I button things back up.

Thanks again for all of the help!

 

[racerone]

Re: 88 SPL Starting/Running Issues

DO NOT USE the soft rubber !!-------Use reinforced fuel hose or something like solid rubber cord ( o-ring ) material.-------Even best to get factory original if you are unsure of what to do and how important they are.

 

[Treshuevos]

Re: 88 SPL Starting/Running Issues

DO NOT USE the soft rubber !!-------Use reinforced fuel hose or something like solid rubber cord ( o-ring ) material.-------Even best to get factory original if you are unsure of what to do and how important they are.

Thanks very much...I'm glad I asked! I'll order the factory original now.

 

[Treshuevos]

I wanted to report back and thank everyone that helped me out. Due to the vBulletin upgrade I had to jump on another site where many of you help out as well.

Turned out to be a bad ignition switch (it was sending 13 vdc to the "M" terminal kill circuit). I replaced it over the weekend, put the boat in the water and everything worked perfect...started right up and ran like a top.

Thanks again to all of you above for helping out!