Re: 87 Bayliner Capri Resto
hi 87....
you are really ripping into that hull......thats good....but lets not go over board.
i see you cut out the console supports...lets get something under there and support them before you start re glassing or they will distort your hull....speaking of distorting the hull....are you on the standard bunk type trailer? (escort) ?
if so....make sure that the back bunks are under the transom....not a few inches shy. and that the bunks them selves are supporting the actual hull...not on a strake or chine.
you may have gone a wee bit over board with removing the front end, as the foam in the front was probably dry and just the top wood wet..
that foam is really expencive so anything dry you can keep...keep it
ok.....difficult to see because all the wood chips around.....but the back of the stringers look good....see they are really well glassed....before we open them up for a core sample...lets find out about the gas tank front and rear bulk head.
the front is clearly rotten....how is the aft bulkhead?.....
the front can be replaced with out removing the gas tank...(ill tell you more about how to do that later) but if the aft is rotten.....the tank must come out.....and if the aft is rotten....the chances are the motor has to come out as well (which i see you have been avoiding...lol
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if the back is good....you can (after you replace the forward bulk head)...stuff a 5/8ths sheet of ply under the motor cowling. (there is a sheet of 5/8ths over the gas tank that is an additional support for the floor).
now.... as far as the removal of the deck....grind or remove all the remnants of the old deck form the edges of the hull....you want a clean surface to drop your new sheet of ply on....so all the rough edges must be gone.
grinding is easily done with a 4 or 6 inch grinder with a rubber (not plastic) backing pad and 32 grit sanding disc.
(wear your safety equipment....goggles and a respirator (not a doctors mask....but an actual respirator)
also ....where the seats were.....leave the wood that is against the side of the hull...but take out anything that will impede your dropping the new wood into place.
(the reason of leaving the wood on the side hull is so that you can re use your old seat bases and this wood will be your guide to replacing them.)
make a note where the gussets were (between the stringers) you will need them for floor supports.
now is the time to decide if you are going to do under the battery box, the cooler and the transom.....
if you decide to do that....you can keep the front of the engine cowling by carefully cutting it out....(the shape of the cowling is cool....so you want to keep that).
i hope you have allready gotten your plywood and it is drying.....the deck is 1/2 inch and the sheet over the gas tank is 5/8ths.
it is also crutial that you protect each piece of wood going into the boat by either fiberglassing it...gellcoating it or at least a good coat of paint will work for a few years....
yes this includes the underside of the deck...(i fiberglassed my big boat's under deck, and gellcoated the bayliner's.
at a half inch ply i suggest to glass it....the under glass will add stiffness that you want.
are you planning to re-foam the boat?....if not, let us know so that we can help you with the re fiberglassing of the hull.
that should keep you going for now....
cheers
oops
