85 Crestliner 16 Rebuild

[jbcurt00]

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

It would get my carpet all messy!:laugh:

Um, yeah....

On the plus side, it'd sure keep the fish blood & guts from staining the carpet

 

[eboat85]

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Um, yeah....

On the plus side, it'd sure keep the fish blood & guts from staining the carpet

I would be better off painting the fish .... then I could hold onto them slippery little suckers!

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

I was a glutton for punishment and installed capet in my boat when the original wore out, but after the second batch wore out I said no more and went with marine vinyl instead. I didn't know about the Durabak back then or my boat might have had it put in instead.

I'll never have carpet in another boat again, give me a finish that sheds water instead of absorbing it.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

I would be better off painting the fish .... then I could hold onto them slippery little suckers!

Conveniently, Durabak is also available in non-skid :watermelon:

 

[eboat85]

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Finally, a bit of a break! I worked on the fuel tank and removed all the old gas which surprisingly, smelled like gas. After I removed the sending unit and looked in I was glad to see that all was shiny and looked like aluminum. I was expecting a layer of sludge or some other gunk but it was clean.

Now, tomorrow's project.... time to build a new transom.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

That below deck tank will last longer if you paint it as advised in this USCG circular:

http://www.uscgboating.org/assets/pdf/recalls/BSC79.pdf

 

[eboat85]

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

That below deck tank will last longer if you paint it as advised in this USCG circular:

http://www.uscgboating.org/assets/pdf/recalls/BSC79.pdf

Looks like ultimately it would be better to just remove the center in-floor tank and go with a portable under splash pan. Those reports sure don't make it easy sleeping at night!

Made the new transom today. All went well but if I had to do it over again I might use two pieces of 1" rather two sheets of 3/4" and one sheet of 1/2". It was a bit of a challenge getting three sheets all screwed down tight. I put half the screws in from one side and the other half from the other. The screws were a bit short of 2" so this seemed like the best choice. Gluing was a fun mess. I drilled a few holes for venting and had plenty of glue oozzing out.

 

[eboat85]

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

That below deck tank will last longer if you paint it as advised in this USCG circular:

http://www.uscgboating.org/assets/pdf/recalls/BSC79.pdf

Ok Jig, now you have me thinking.... I hate it when that happens. :facepalm:

Now I am contemplating installing a portable low profile 9 or 12 gal tank under the splash pan and removing the aluminum tank to convert the space to in floor storage. I would have to rig an access door in the original floor panel and I should be able to create a drain in the bottom to run to the bilge for any water that gets in.

I haven't finished the first project and I am already thinking of the next one. I think my wife is getting nervous!

 

[eboat85]

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Working on the transom board today and I find it interesting that most the holes that Crestliner put through were not a straight 90 degree to the face of the board but at odd angles. I am also finding that either the boat I have was a Friday boat or I am expecting way to much on quality of construction.

Question, I have found some pitting in the surface of of the aluminum that was in contact with the original pressure treated plywood. I would like to fill the spots with something but there aren't too many of them. I thought about 5200 but wondered if anyone had any better ideas.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

JB Weld, skimmed onto the pitting & sanded smooth before you prep, prime & paint aluminum skin. Then install the transom.

Prime w/ self-etching primer if there's bare aluminum. Priming & painting will minimize the chance of water causing corrosion if it ever gets wet again.

You should read thru some fiberglass resto's. Quite a few seem to have been built while the QC crew was on a 12oz bender :facepalm:

Don't forget it's a production boat. So each 'station' probably only had seconds per step to complete it.

 

[eboat85]

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Thanks, any preferred brand of primers? It is a bare surface so painting makes sense.

I am pretty sure that the bilge was a very active part of the design since any water that would splash into the well had a direct route down the corners and into the bilge. I have a tube of 5200 that will change that!

I found about an extra yard of carpet wadded up and foamed into the corner of the port side rear corner of the hull. Must have been at the end of the roll!

 

[eboat85]

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

JB Weld, skimmed onto the pitting & sanded smooth before you prep, prime & paint aluminum skin. Then install the transom.

Prime w/ self-etching primer if there's bare aluminum. Priming & painting will minimize the chance of water causing corrosion if it ever gets wet again.

JB, this might not even be an issue but were the pitting has already happened, is thee something that should be used on the pitted areas to neutralize any chemical reaction from the previous wood? Went out tonight and bought etching primer and jb weld so a almost at the turn around point and start putting things back together.

 

[fishrdan]

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

is there something that should be used on the pitted areas to neutralize any chemical reaction from the previous wood?

I used Jasco Metal Prep on my Jon boat transom, on the raw aluminum under the wood. The boat was only 2-3 years old when I had to redesign the transom (craaaaappy design) and I found the beginnings of a lot of pitting under the original plywood. The Jasco cleaned out the corrosion pits and created a good surface for priming.

This is acid, so don't let it dry (on the aluminum) as the instructions state for steel/iron. Paint it on and let it work for 15-30 minutes, then wash off with plenty of clean water. Kind of the same thing as using vinegar, just a stronger acid.

 

[eboat85]

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

I used Jasco Metal Prep on my Jon boat transom, on the raw aluminum under the wood. The boat was only 2-3 years old when I had to redesign the transom (craaaaappy design) and I found the beginnings of a lot of pitting under the original plywood. The Jasco cleaned out the corrosion pits and created a good surface for priming.

This is acid, so don't let it dry (on the aluminum) as the instructions state for steel/iron. Paint it on and let it work for 15-30 minutes, then wash off with plenty of clean water. Kind of the same thing as using vinegar, just a stronger acid.

Hi Dan,

I checked through the web and the local stores don't list it. I am going to fill the pock marks with jb weld and then etch prime the entire surface. Will vinegar work? I just want to make sure the the chemical reaction is neutralized. If the phosphoric acid is the way to go then I will see if there is a similar product locally.

Thanks, Eric

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

I think it has been done both ways, I prefer the 1st, but understand the thought behind the 2nd. All depends on prep, choose which way you think serves you best:

1: Clean the corrosion area as best as you can w/ wire cup wheel/brush, and the surrounding area down to bare aluminum. 'Etch' the area w/ a 50/50 mix of water & vinegar, rinse extremely well w/ clean water. Allow the area to thoroughly dry. Wipe are w/ acetone to make sure it's clean. Apply JB Weld/MarineTex to pitting & holes you like to fill. Smooth it as best as possible to prevent having TONS of difficult sanding. Once cured, prep bare aluminum w/ 50/50 vinegar-water, rinse well, dry, wipe w/ acetone & spray a light coat or 2 of Self-etching primer/Zinc Chromate, prime all areas to be painted w/ a metal primer (including SE/ZC primed areas). Apply finish coats of paint.

2: Everything is the same as method 1, but once wire brushed/sanded to bare aluminum, etched w/ vinegar-water, dry & wiped w/ acetone you apply the SE/ZC primer to the corrosion/pitting & the bare aluminum 1st, then apply the JB Weld.


Method 1 gives the JB Weld the best possible cleaned & etched surface for it to bond to, you can give bare aluminum. But aluminum is a difficult metal for lots of stuff to stick to, including JB Weld & paint. So in method 2 you use the bonding properties of the SE/ZC primer to give the JB Weld some additional 'gripping' at the surface where it needs to be bonded.

I prefer method #1, because if you're doing a through prep & cleaning prior to applying the JB Weld, the JB should bond & remain well adhered.

I understand method #2, and think it is a perfectly acceptable way to do it to, I just prefer the 1st.

NOTE: The above doesn't deal w/ any of the sanding, cleaning & prep needed between application of the JB Weld, or after the SE/ZC primer is sprayed. Nor does it detail any sanding, cleaning or prep between SE/ZC primer, metal primer and finish paint steps. That is all required to be done, and needs to be done well to ensure good coverage & adhesion of whatever finish paint you choose.

I'm not a painter or an aluminum repair specialist, but as I understand JB Weld & bare aluminum, both methods above should work w/ equal chances for success. Let me know if any of that ^^^ is unclear. I'm sure someone else will be along to assist too.

Good luck

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Hi Dan,

I checked through the web and the local stores don't list it. I am going to fill the pock marks with jb weld and then etch prime the entire surface. Will vinegar work? I just want to make sure the the chemical reaction is neutralized. If the phosphoric acid is the way to go then I will see if there is a similar product locally.

Thanks, Eric

I think it has been done both ways, I prefer the 1st, but understand the thought behind the 2nd. All depends on prep, choose....

Good luck

Bump, looks like we posted at the same time.

 

[eboat85]

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Thanks JB, I used an orbital sander and then sprayed the area down with some brake /carb cleaner that I have to get all the dirt and any oil/gunk out of the pits. I have all the stuff to do step 1 and will pick up some acetone to follow the steps that you listed.

I already have my epoxy from US Comp I am not worried about the future contact of the wood and aluminum. I just want to make sure that the current pits and pock marks aren't still active and in a few years find pin holes starting to poke through the back of the boat.

I might be worrying too much about this but that is what I do! :facepalm:

 

[eboat85]

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Just an etiquette question, as I move out of the transom rebuild and move into other areas of the hull, do I stay on this thread or start another? From other posts that I have read it looks like most stay on the same one and the rules indicate this but I have also seen others that start new for different questions.

Wish I had started this thread with a different title like "85 Crestliner 16 Rebuild" or something like that.

Thanks for your patience with a newbie!

 

[jbcurt00]

Wish I'd named this thread 'My 1985 Crestliner 16 rebuild

Wish I'd named this thread 'My 1985 Crestliner 16 rebuild

May be to late to change the title, even for a MOD, but try this:

Go back up to your 1st post. In the bottom right corner, click EDIT POST

When that window opens, in the bottom right corner, click GO ADVANCED, if it's not present, it may be too late to make a change.

If it is, when you click it another window opens. In the upper left corner, ABOVE all the formatting choices, there should be 2 long white boxes. 1 has the title for your thread, and is the upper most box of the 2. The other is the title of the post, it's the lower of the 2 boxes.

The upper box is only available to you as the original thread starter. The post title box is available to anyone that chooses to GO ADVANCED while they are replying to your thread. GO ADVANCED is the middle button in the bottom right corner of the posting window after you hit REPLY to post....

Like I just did ^^^^, but it only changes the title of my post NOT the thread. I think it changes to that new post title for subsequent posts too, but the thread title doesn't change.....

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

Re: Warped transom - Replace or Repair?

test

Only changed the title of my post, not subsequent posts...

Even if GO ADVANCED isn't a choice after you click EDIT, the 2 boxes may be present, you'll need to scroll up to see if they are both there in the upper left corner....