'84 evinrude 6hp E6RCRM

[puffitu]

Trying to revive this motor. Its showing signs of life after performing some maintenance such as plugs, fuel lines, head gasket, thermo, carb kit, impeller, seals etc. it fired up for about 5minutes and pumped water and so on, then it stalled out. Checked fuel delivery and checked out. Decided to pop the flywheel to have a peek and found sticky brownish goo all over the coil magnet and on inside of flywheel. Does this promt ordering new coil and sensor? How to check either of these would be great info if anyones got it. Also are these motors strictly have to be timed with a timing light? Thanks

 

[racerone]

Timing does not go out of adjustment.----Not much you can do with a timing light.

 

[puffitu]

Thanks, wasn’t sure; should I order the coil and sensor since I got the hat off this this anyways?

 

[ct1762@gmail.com]

one thing i'd check: did you set the carb float height properly? eyeballing it without the tool is not great if you haven't done a bunch before. make sure its got at least 30mm of drop as well. if the float is bent too high up, it will cut fuel flow and make it stall after a short while as its just running from the idle circuit. also, pull the drain screw after pumping the bulb to be sure its filling up the bowl. check to make sure its not overheating. needs water about 5'' below the exhaust outlet to pressurize it. sensor coils need to ohm around 40 ohms.charge coil needs to be putting out 200v or so, but if theres sticky goo all over the place then yes, replace! could be rubbing on the flywheel and stopping continuity, but then you need to check the crank/wiggle the mag plate to make sure its not shifting.

 

[puffitu]

I really appreciate your advise on this model/year as there’s very little info on line about this particular year. I’ve got thE Seloc manual but seems vague at best. I’ve ordered new coil and sensor, carb kit. Now that you mentioned the mag plate; this one may indeed be shifting as well. What to check specifically?

 

[ct1762@gmail.com]

no problem. just so that it doesnt wiggle much if at all. basically it cannot be flexing/rattling at all as the motor is running. does sound like that goop is stopping current from flowing after it gets warm though. chuck that seloc manual out and get an OEM used one off ebay for a few bucks.

 

[racerone]

The 84 model 6 hp is nothing special.-----First came out as a 7.5 HP in 1980.-----Then was marketed as an 8 and 6 HP up to about 2005 or so.-----Basically all the same year after year.

 

[ct1762@gmail.com]

The 84 model 6 hp is nothing special.-----First came out as a 7.5 HP in 1980.-----Then was marketed as an 8 and 6 HP up to about 2005 or so.-----Basically all the same year after year.

did they have an issue idling? i ask this because i had one brand new in 96' as my first motor, and no matter how the low speed needle was adjusted, or the idle set screw, it wanted to stall after coming off plane. all the other ones i've done 1980 on up did the same thing. it looks like OMC tried to improve this by adding the plastic top carb and idle rpm set screw in the mid 80's, as well as hard starting by adding the primer for a few years. why all the experimentation here I wonder? just curious if theres a story behind these changes!

 

[racerone]

These are a wonderful motors and there was nothing wrong with them.----Changes are often made to reduce manufacturing and assembly costs.

 

[puffitu]

Story with mine is that when I got it-shaft was stuck in the crank case, who ever tried to get lower off; broke/cut bolts, beat on the flywheel nut with a poorly calibrated bashometer so much that I had to shave a thin layer of mangled metal just to free the flywheel, the drive shaft looks like it was welded before as the impeller key location doesn’t work, broken shifter cable threaded plastic thingy, among few other things but besides all that it started right up for me and ran for about 5 min water pumping after I repaired all I’ve mentioned. Then just wouldn’t stay running; starting and going to high rpms then just cutting out. However, I’m still waiting for new fuel pump, carb kit, sensor and coil as I think the coil is crapping out-I may leave existing sensor as I think it’s ok.

 

[ct1762@gmail.com]

Story with mine is that when I got it-shaft was stuck in the crank case, who ever tried to get lower off; broke/cut bolts, beat on the flywheel nut with a poorly calibrated bashometer so much that I had to shave a thin layer of mangled metal just to free the flywheel, the drive shaft looks like it was welded before as the impeller key location doesn’t work, broken shifter cable threaded plastic thingy, among few other things but besides all that it started right up for me and ran for about 5 min water pumping after I repaired all I’ve mentioned. Then just wouldn’t stay running; starting and going to high rpms then just cutting out. However, I’m still waiting for new fuel pump, carb kit, sensor and coil as I think the coil is crapping out-I may leave existing sensor as I think it’s ok.

It sounds like it needs a new flywheel ! these are harmonically balanced. if someone hit the nut and mangled it, guaranteed they hit it elsewhere and now its out of spec, rubbing on the armature causing all that mess.

 

[puffitu]

New coil and sensor and fired right up. Idles great, best it’s ever done actually. The only other issue I’m seeing is that I may need to adjust the throttle cable throw as it’s not corresponding with the start, shift slow and fast positions. Also I may need to adjust the adjustment button as it’s slipping into slow after a while