doesn't the CDI site state it takes a min. of 250 rpm to fire the pack?..if your starter can achieve that with the plugs in you should be good to go
Here's a random question as I'm waiting on the ignition parts to come in. Can you do the spark test with the plugs in. That is to say, the gap testers would be plugged in to the plug wires and grounded to the block, but leave the plugs in. I ask because the other day when I did my spark test, I put a little fuel in the cylinders via the spark plug holes, and when I did the spark test, all it did was spit the fuel back out the plug holes.
Still waiting on my ignition parts to come in, they should be here today. As I'm waiting I'm still concerned that my WOT advance timng will be off, because at WOT position the cam on the armature plate is not hitting the advance adjustment screw. I've read this Joe Reeves procedure, but I'm not entirely sure I follow. Could someone spell it out for me?
Are you in forward gear?
I'll have to double check, but I believe so. Shifted to forward gear and the throttle arm twisted to WOT, the armature cam does not quite hit the advance stop screw. The throttle can be twisted to make the cam touch the screw, but that puts the throttle indicator beyond the fast position on the slow - facst indicator on the tiller handle. Not sure if that matters. I suppose I just thought that WOT should be achieved once the indicator on the tiller handle is at "fast". Let me know if that makes since. I can take pictures this evening to visualize what Im saying here.
After all these questions and views you a going to have to post some video for everyone once you have it going!
Are you in forward gear?
Come to think of it, in order to do the Joe Reeves timing method, with out the motor running, the motor can't be in forward gear, as it won't start due to the neutral start switch. Do I disingage this and then go through the advance timing procedure. I noticed the other day if I switch the connector to the opposite pole it will turn over in the forward gear. See sketch below explaining what I'm saying here.
View attachment 218072
See photos below of the remainder of the re-build thus far.
View attachment 217224View attachment 217221View attachment 217222View attachment 217223
Sorry to come in that late with such a question, but I was not paying attention to this thread previously...
In the pictures above, the ring ends are not supposed to go across cylinder openings.
Was the conrod attached to the crankshaft, or the pistons just pushed into the cylinders and aligned to check if the locating pins and ring ends are seated properly?
Thanks, Peter
Check spark plugs, check the grounds- especially from power pack, disconnect the kill wire.
Is the stator new?